Colt New Frontier 22 front sight repair?

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slapdead

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I've got this old 1975 Colt New Frontier 22 that the front sight has actually fallen off.
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It appears rust corrosion got underneath and broke the solder.
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It has the 4 3/8" bbl
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Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this? :banghead:
 

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send it to Colt . Or have a very skilled gunsmith solder it on with lots of heat block so the blue will not be harmed
 
Thanks but I don't think Colt works on these anymore. The blue is about gone anyways it's been worn off over the years and the factory color case hardening finish is only visable in a few places like under the top strap and the less prone to wear areas. Still it's worth repairing if I could find a smith to take it on.
 
CLEAN THE BBL, CLEAN THE SIGHT BASE and glue them together with high strength epoxy. Did this fourty years ago with two different Colts, one a 357MAG, and both are still in fine shape and used often.
And so it goes...
 
Again thank you Gordon, rcmodel, and Wil Terry, I'll use acetone to get all the old oils off but wanted to ask you if I should clamp it together during the cure just to be sure everything stays in place. I knew you guys would be able to help me out. Problem solved, will update results.
 
If you use Black Max, you will hardly have time to clamp it.

So get ready when you put it on.

Hopefully there is enough of the old solder left to help align it.

rc
 
FWIW, I don't think that is the original sight. I think the original sight (which was press fitted into the slot) was removed and the ramp type glued on. Does the OP know of the gun's history to be sure?

Jim
 
+1
New Frontier model had adjustable rear sight and ramp front sight.

Just like that one.

rc
 
That is the style barrel used on Scouts-- it is said these barrels were made on Python machines?? Could be. Locktite would probably work as well-- JMHO :)
 
Oh yes it is the factory original sight as delivered by Santa Colt in 1975. It even came with a Colt key chain tool with the different sized screwdrivers needed. I have just the end flap of the original box. Adventuresome kids don't think about what things are worth. A one owner you might say. Drug around on camping trips, fence building, and under the pickup seat. The front blade came off just last year as it corroded while stored in a plastic dokosil case in a humid area. The only clean up done was to try and get the active rust off and out of the pits to access the condition. I was surprised the front sight didn't have a key to align it for soldering into the slot. Is that key slot a solder pool maybe? The old gun has more sentimental value than actual value considering the condition I let it get in. Thanks for the comments.
 
The key slot was used with the standard shark fin front sight on the fixed sight Colt Scout.

They just used the same barrels on the New Frontier adjustable sight model.

rc
 
Thanks rcmodel I was curious about that.

Here's the original box flap and the key fob.
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I have used a low temp silver solder to remount a front site on a 30-30 winchester. I buy this at the model airplane hobby store and its some tough stuff. It is Stay Brite brand and is easy to use and shouldn't affect the blueing.
I think Brownells also sells this.
 
If you decide to solder on the front sight, make sure to put plenty of heat stop paste IN the barrel as well as on the outside. Otherwise, the barrel can get hot enough to damage the bore and rifling.

Jim
 
All good advice guys. Brownell's got me a tube of the Black Max onto the big brown truck so I'm prepping for the task. Reading on how fast this sets I'm curious if I need to make a holding jig so it is in the right place right away. There doesn't seem to be any old solder "link" that indicates the spot. Other than looking at the bluing it seems to be eyeball only. For those familiar with the Black Max; is there enough time to reposition if necessary? Should I coat a thin smear on both the barrel and the sight? How do I clean up any excess that might squish out when fitted? Will Cold Blue affect it? Will the adhesive seal off the bare metal exposed to further corrosion or should I use oil as in normal cleaning? :banghead:
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The Loctite 380 worked great. I used acetone on a q-tip to clean up the excess until I feel like it has fully cured enough to get more aggressive on the detailing. But I ran several cylinders of long rifle and a couple magnums through it just fine. It might not be as pretty as if a $$$smith had done it but for under $10 I'm happy to have the old iron back in the fire.

Time will tell how well it holds up compared to a resolder job.
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THR rides again.:cool:
 

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