Colt Python will not allow reloaded ammo into cylinder

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Charlie Martinez

Charlie Martinez

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I have been shooting mostly 38 Special reloaded target loads ammo in my Colt Python for over 40 years but recently the cylinder will only allow insertion of factory ammo.

I don't have this problem with any of my other 38/357 revolvers which include a Dan Wesson, S&W Model 19 and a Charter Arms Pathfinder. I suspect it has something to do with carbon buildup but all the cleaning with copper brushes and solvent have has not resolved the problem.

Does anyone know what I can do to clean the cylinders?
 
Factory ammo is no problem at all and reloads with jacketed bullets are no problem either. Its just my reloads when they are lead cast bullets. That is why I think my reloading technique is the problem. The lead reloaded ammo seems to go in about 2/3 then begins to stick.
Also why is it with just the Python? My other 38 caliber revolvers don't have the same problem.
 
Re-size and chamfer the outside a case to a knife edge.
Flare that case enough so it just fits (tightly) into a cylinder chamber.
Wet the chamber with the fowling cleaner of choice and push/tap that case made-into-a-scraper into that chamber.
It should scrape away the fowling and may need to be tapped out from the front of the cylinder.
Do all the chambers to scrape/remove the fowling and you are done.
Use 357 cases to clean all the way close to the throat...
That's what I would do,
jmo,
.
 
Beyond lead fouling:

Jacketed bullets usually have a
.357 diameter while lead can be
thicker, just enough to stop chambering
if the crimp is too much. Measure the
jacketed loaded ammo versus the
lead reloads. Also jacketed usually
have a cannelure which helps keep the
crimping "bulge" to a minimum.

Another factor might be the thickness of
the brass; some cheaper brasses are
thicker, less pliant to crimping.

I think the 130 grain factory practice ammo
has a bullet diameter of .355 along with the
cheaper brass.

And your Colt chambers are probably
tighter than those of other make
revolvers. Ditto for Colt barrel diameters.
 
Clean your cylinder with any of the above methods...I like to use a copper bore brush and #9 in a handheld electric drill.
Try a Lee Factory Crimp die, works for me.

I have a Colt, too. Your Pony has been rode hard and put away wet, too many times.;)

But it might be you've ruint it. I'll give ya $500.
 
Last edited:
I expect that improper (not lack of) cleaning could be the cause but I am meticulous about cleaning guns and I run the copper wire brush with solvent followed by a clean patch through each chamber every time I get home from the range. I spent a few years shooting CASS and basically packed away all my handguns except for the SA's. Since getting back I noticed that two of my guns, the Python and a Mossberg 22 rifle came out of the cases with issues that were not there when they were put away.

The Mossberg started to misfire and required taking apart and cleaning the bolt of what looked like varnish and now the Python has the tight chamber problem. I used to clean my guns with WD40 back then. I now know that the varnish inside the bolt is dried WD40 and is what caused the Mossberg's problems. I wonder if old WD40 is causing the chamber issues in my Python.

If that sounds like a reasonable cause does anyone know a good solvent to remove caked up WD40?
 
Colts in 38 / 357 have tighter chambers than most other revolvers. In my selection they are the tightest of all.

It probably isn’t a cleaning issue. It wasn’t in my situation. For example, I have a 1937 Colt officers model. It will not chamber 38 Special rounds loaded with .358” or .359” or larger cast bullets with the case flare removed to the point of having a straight wall.

Each round of my handloads MUST have a crimp for the Colt. I use Lee FCD.

@Charlie Martinez Most factory revolver ammo is built to minimum dimensions to allow chambering in virtually all chambers which is why factory ammo loads fine in your Python.
 
Last edited:
airfoil said:
Try a Lee Factory Crimp die, works for me.
Click to expand...

^This. I had a similar problem trying to fit reloaded 38s into a S&W 686-1. The factory rounds had been fired in a Taurus 66 and reloaded once. They'd go into the Taurus but not into the Smith. I got a Lee FCD and the problem miraculously went away.
 
Charlie Martinez said:
If that sounds like a reasonable cause does anyone know a good solvent to remove caked up WD40?
Click to expand...

Never had that problem, but try lacquer thinner or nail polish remover...both the same thing and maybe have some on hand, and neither will harm metal, but watch out on plastic/wood...and, of course paint.

I was gonna suggest a blow torch...but I won't.
 
Last edited:
Watch acetone (nail polish remover) around lacquer wood finishes.

I have found acetone will soften some floor covers (linoleum) but when I just let it evaporate it seems OK.
 
Charlie Martinez said:
The lead reloaded ammo seems to go in about 2/3 then begins to stick.
Click to expand...

Will an unloaded, resized case chamber OK? I've encountered dimensional issues with Ruger SP101s in both .357 and .32 H&R, and with those a resized case would stick about 4/5ths of the way in.

One thing I tried was using a undersize resizing die from Lee to iron out any budges near the case web (where the brass becomes thicker inside.

https://leeprecision.com/undersize-sizing-dies/

You'll want to use these with Lee shellholders -- mixing brands of dies and shellholders can sometimes prevent the former from achieving a full-length resize.

If the resized case loads into the chamber OK, then another possibility is that your cast bullets may be a little oversize. Try sizing them down another .001" before loading and see whether they will chamber.

If the loaded round was sticking just short of complete chambering, I would try seating bullets that much deeper.
 
Show us a picture of one of the rounds that wont chamber.

Every time I have this issue I have bulged the case with my crimp. It snags halfway (or more) down the chamber due to the taper of the chamber itself. My Colt Officers Model Heavy Barrel is very picky and hates a bulged crimp.

02F0A973-C34E-4ACE-AE60-98DE3356FE5F.jpeg E1E69ABC-76AC-4A11-BBA6-434994225748.jpeg

My S&W .357’s are a bit more tolerant of it.

Stay safe.
 
For those recommending the Lee Factory Crimp Die...
Know that those dies have a carbide ring that will swage down over-size cast bullets.
That's why I don't used them unless I have knocked out that carbide ring.
jmo,
.
 
No FCD required.
Cartridge is already roll-crimped.

- Pull the decapping pin from the sizer die
- Run a non-fitting/reloaded cartridge up to the top of the empty press
- Screw the sizer body down onto the cartridge/press until the cartridge engages.
- Lower ram/cartridge, screw die down 1-turn, raise ram/cartridge and feel the sizer slightly taper the case.

- Try the cartridge in the Python.
- If it doesn't seat, screw die down 1/2-turn at a time, size/try again until it does seat. (count the eventual turns for future use)

- Run all the other non-fitting cartridges through the die, as now set.

.
 
Last edited:
Charlie Martinez said:
Factory ammo is no problem at all and reloads with jacketed bullets are no problem either. Its just my reloads when they are lead cast bullets. That is why I think my reloading technique is the problem. The lead reloaded ammo seems to go in about 2/3 then begins to stick.
Also why is it with just the Python? My other 38 caliber revolvers don't have the same problem.
Click to expand...
What size are the cast bullets sized to? Can you see an obvious bulge on the cases with the cast bullet load? It seems to me that if factory ammo and jacketed bullet reloads will chamber without issues, that your cylinder doesn't have any buildup. I'd look at the cast bullet reloads. Have you shot any of the factory ammo? Do you have another 357 that you can check the cast reloads in to see if they will chamber?
 
Some products and tools that might be helpful to clean cylinders and make sure reloads chamber in levers, revolvers, etc. Kroil gets under fouling and lead. Lead wipes can be cut into patches to swab and will remove blueing if not used carefully. Can't leave Flitz out. Mic and "chamber gauge" to check for fat bullets.
tempImagee2rulL.png tempImage2AdUmX.png
 
tominboise said:
What size are the cast bullets sized to? Can you see an obvious bulge on the cases with the cast bullet load? It seems to me that if factory ammo and jacketed bullet reloads will chamber without issues, that your cylinder doesn't have any buildup. I'd look at the cast bullet reloads. Have you shot any of the factory ammo? Do you have another 357 that you can check the cast reloads in to see if they will chamber?
Click to expand...

I don't know the exact diameter of the cast bullets they were cast and given to me by a friend. He also gave me the molds and they are made by Lee so mold quality should not be a problem. I can definitely say that diameters of jacketed bullets are indeed a bit less. There is a slight bulge. The outside diameter of the case at the mouth is .005" wider than near the base.

Two Q's:
1. What is the reason for the bulge. Is it the size of the bullet or something I'm doing wrong when I crimp?
2. Since the bulge is at the mouth of the case why does the cartridge go in at all. Shouldn't the fit issue manifest immediately (ie at the entrance of each chamber) rather than at the 2/3 depth?
 
Charlie Martinez said:
I don't know the exact diameter of the cast bullets they were cast and given to me by a friend. He also gave me the molds and they are made by Lee so mold quality should not be a problem. I can definitely say that diameters of jacketed bullets are indeed a bit less. There is a slight bulge. The outside diameter of the case at the mouth is .005" wider than near the base.

Two Q's:
1. What is the reason for the bulge. Is it the size of the bullet or something I'm doing wrong when I crimp?
2. Since the bulge is at the mouth of the case why does the cartridge go in at all. Shouldn't the fit issue manifest immediately (ie at the entrance of each chamber) rather than at the 2/3 depth?
Click to expand...
On Q1, is the crimp bulged out or is the case bulged out the length of the bullet? If the latter, that is a normal thing as the case gets resized smaller and then bulges out when the bullet is seated. If the former, are you crimping into a crimp groove? Might try to back off the crimp or seat the bullet differently if that is the case.
On Q2, I don't really have an idea at the moment, other than maybe the overall seating length is too long?
 
Tilos said:
Re-size and chamfer the outside a case to a knife edge.
Flare that case enough so it just fits (tightly) into a cylinder chamber.
Wet the chamber with the fowling cleaner of choice and push/tap that case made-into-a-scraper into that chamber.
It should scrape away the fowling and may need to be tapped out from the front of the cylinder.
Do all the chambers to scrape/remove the fowling and you are done.
Use 357 cases to clean all the way close to the throat...
That's what I would do,
jmo,
.
Click to expand...

I learned this method from an old reloader, bullet caster, It works great to remove "ring around the collar"!
I have one made for 357 and 44mag.

I also like the Hoppes tornado spiral brush chucked in a drill.

https://www.brownells.com/gun-clean...&utm_term=16693904529646965297210080301008005
 
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