Colt Trooper: Put Away Wet!

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kcofohio

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Just purchased a '64 build of the Colt Trooper 357. When I was checking it out at the LGS, it had good lockup and looked like few rounds had gone through it. But outwardly, it showed some pitting. So, going into this, I knew it wasn't a great deal, but it is a Trooper. Not that I'm a Colt fan, but it just seemed a part of history to me.

Got it home last week and pulled the Pachmayr grips off and found a good amount of pitting on the rear of the grip section.

As the title says, I don't think it was rode hard, but it was put away wet. At least the grips were wet. Probably why no original wood grips.

I broke it down to check the mechanisms. No rust or pitting to them, but rust was creeping into the cavity that houses them.

My one concern is that, though the cylinder bolt drops as should, per Coltfever.com, it pops up before getting to the cylinder notch lands. Will it last like that for a while?
 

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I don't know what you mean by 'notch lands'?

But the bolt should pop up into the leading edge of the scallop leading up to each bolt cut.

If it doesn't the cylinder will outrun the bolt in fast DA fire and damage the bolt cuts by getting there too late to engage and stop it.

rc
 
That is pretty common on ex-police guns that were carried in open top holsters. It rains or snows, the grips get wet, and even if the gun is wiped down and oiled later, the wet grips hold moisture and the frame rusts.

Will that make any difference to the functioning or accuracy of the gun? I can't see how. As to when the bolt (cylinder stop) drops, ideally it should be into the leade (that triangle shaped cut) but no great harm if it drops early as long as there are no other problems. Trying to tune that Colt to correct the problem could make things worse.

Jim
 
Jim K knows what he is talking about. Unless there are other problems, don't mess with it.
That Trooper should give many more years of service.
 
rc, my bad on terms. Yes, the bolt pops up and hits the cylinder before it rotates to the scallop. So, the bolt definitely is up in time to stop the cylinder.

Jim, thanks, hadn't thought about that. Being holstered as a service piece makes sense. I wouldn't have it worked on unless it failed to drop the cylinder bolt properly. But reading some parts are short in supply is of concern.
 
The only real issue with the bolt dropping early and outside the leade in front of the locking notch is that you'll get finish wear on the outer diameter of the cylinder.

Rust under the grips has long been an issue even with stainless guns, and especially with rubber grips.
This is caused by sweat and other moisture leaking under the grips.
One good way to prevent rust is to apply a medium thick coat of Johnson's Paste Wax on the metal that's covered by the grips
Don't wipe the wax off, let dry 30 minutes then reinstall the grips.
The wax will seal the metal to moisture.
 
Thanks dfariswheel! In a couple weeks I'll take the side plate off to make sure all the rust is gone. Then on goes the paste wax. Not on the internals of course. :)
 
I finally took the Trooper out yesterday and put 50 rds. through it. All were reloads in 158 gr. JSP with Titegroup and HS6 powder. The primers were WSPM.

Double action is quite smooth with maybe 7-8 lbs. on the pull. It was 30' out and I didn't have gloves on, so I could be wrong about the pull. It is easy to aim.

There were no miss fires or skipped chambers. It seems the mechanics of the gun are good.

Though it isn't a show piece, it looks to be a keeper. :)
 
Sounds like you have a great shooter. Here is a cautionary tale about rubber grips. They're notorious for wicking sweat and other moisture underneath. Dfariswheels common sense suggestion about wax is good. I still recommend that people take them off occasionally and inspect the grip frame just to be sure.
 
I would replace all of the springs. Springs are usually a higher carbon steel. With that they are more prone to rust. And rust creates putting & cracks, which cause spring failure.
 
When I had it apart, I saw no signs of rust or pitting on the main spring or internal parts. Crud, but not rust. The rust and pitting were mainly on the grip and rear of the side plate.

Eventually, I'll probably get some back up parts. But I doubt that I will put anywhere over 500 rds. per year through the Trooper.
 
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