Conical vs balls

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Yep, that is Lester. I am 40 so I have had to rely on the net to learn about the sport. Too far from friendship to make the trip. The shooting is more a credit to the gun. Some guns make consistency easier. My RB bench .52 flinter ( same maker r.l. Morris) can hang with the underhammer 62. RBs can be accurate with the right combo
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Yep, that is Lester. I am 40 so I have had to rely on the net to learn about the sport. Too far from friendship to make the trip. The shooting is more a credit to the gun. Some guns make consistency easier. My RB bench .52 flinter ( same maker r.l. Morris) can hang with the underhammer 62. RBs can be accurate with the right combo
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I don't get targets like that very often... and never at 100 yards.... :D

He mentioned a two piece swaged bullet. I forget the mold maker.. accuracy maybe... that makes a nose mold and a body mold together that is cast soft and blended with wheel weights or similar. I've shot a two piece soft/hard glued bullet that I'd not be bragging about too much, but for hunting might have done ok on game that you thought might need something like that.. but swaging I thought was pressure formed and I guess my question is, why a two piece for target?

Actually, how does swaging work with BN variances? It's only the limited capacity yer dealing wit here prompts the questions... you understand... :D
 
Kituwa, I've used the 500gr. Lyman Govt. bullet fer the Hawken with the bullet swag combo used fer deer and fun shootin and ground hogs.
Shootin at the ground hogs....the round nosed bullet can slip thru side to side and let the critters run into the holes. Twice fer deer a good side to side shot let the animals go a good distance and need tracked. I had used the round nose of pure lead prior on multiple deer and they went down well...on the spot pretty much. When I had what I knew was a good shot let deer travel so far I went to a different bullet profile. While swagging the bullets to get the rifling grooved into them I'd stop just short of pushing them all the way thru with a dowell.....at that point I'd take a small metalhammer and tap the round nose to a flat point. never had any problem with a goodshot on deer letting them travel.
Even for ground hogs...if the bullet has a flat nose they don't travel when hit.
The round nose isn't good fer hunting even with a pure lead bullet. Elmer Kieth makes note in his book.....round nosed bullets seem to just slip thru game.
if they hit something substantial like bone that's thick enough they must expand but the expansion isn't consistant as I found. The flat on the bullet....after many years of deer huntin with the Hawken and the same 500gr. round nosed bullet with a flat put to the nose.....no problems.
Soft lead must not be as soft as we imagine. When I had trouble a coupla times with deer the shots were not more than 30 yards on still deer....so I know I hit well and the distance didn't let the bullet slow down.
 
for target shooting, the 2 parts have a different lead content. For mine, the rear is pure lead to obturate well and the nose is 15% or so tin to keep the nose from upsetting on loading. These load quite tight and mine use a large mechanical starter that locks onto the false muzzle.
Mechanical starter is just behind the the short starters and the windex bottle in back
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Mould and swage blocks
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2 piece prior to knurling the male end and swaging
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Finally, sorry to OP, didn't mean to derail
 
Rifle, i trust your judgement,though i still think even with a flat nose or a keith style bullet that it would work best in most cases,not all,if the lead was as soft as possible.Not nessesarily pure lead but still on the soft side anyway.And i am talking for deer and normal size hogs, most times 200lbs or less.So ideally if i can come up with some kind of custom mold for my walker with its 1 in 18 twist barrel, maybe something from 225 to 260grs. with a wide flat nose a cpl of grease grooves and a flat base with a rebated base so it starts straight and a cpl thousanths larger than my bore dia? With 45 grs of T7 behind a 250 or so grain bullet it should still be rather potent. I know a ROA is better set up for this from the get go but i no longer have one of those and i do like playing around with the walker anyway. I have slicked up the insides of my walker,done a trigger job on it to suit me,added a spring/plunger for the cylinder hand, made a new cylinder bolt out of 416 stainless that locks up way better and if i can come up with some great slugs for it that do like i want,this thing may even get drilled and taped for a mini pistol holo sight so i can see to shoot better when the lighting is not so good.I have the stock sights so they work very well in normal daylight,they work as well as sights on a ruger blackhawk, and i would not have a problem getting them to shoot point of aim with whatever ends up shooting well in it.
 
PLASTIKOSMND.... quite an interesting array of equipment you've got there. Accuracy isn't for the faint hearted is it... :D

Thank you for the tour!!

Much Aloha... Tom
 
I dunnooooo!

I dunno, but I just bought my first Walker and my first 1860 Army last week (which are both my first cap and ball pistols), and I just can't wait ta shoot sumpthin!!!!!! WITH ANYTHING!!!!
 
Impressive stuff. Alvin York thought well of the old smoke poles:

That first Army rifle they issued me was all full of grease. Of course I didn't like that. The rifles we used in the mountains were always kept clean. They were muzzle-loading rifles, cap and ball. They make their own guns there in the mountains. They are the most accurate guns in the world, up to 100 or 150 yards. I would rather have had a clean army rifle than a muzzle loader for what we were going to use them for, on account of the repeating shots, but they are not any more accurate than the muzzle-loading rifles.

http://acacia.pair.com/Acacia.Vignettes/The.Diary.of.Alvin.York.html
 
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