Considering traditional archery

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I’m a gap shooter, or more specifically a split-vision shooter. I focus on the target while looking down the arrow but use my arrow point for elevation ranging.

I tried pure instinctive for years with small successes but mostly frustration. One day I was watching a Fred Bear interview and he described his shooting technique which was pure instinctive. He was self taught by the way and didn’t take up archery until his late twenties.

He described his technique which is what I had been trying to do all along. He then said he did not recommend that method. It was too time consuming to learn unless you were naturally gifted which he found out many are not.

I looked into different styles and found Byron Ferguson’s book “Become the Arrow”. It describes the split-vision method which basically made my shooting much more consistent and accurate at all ranges. I highly recommend experimenting a bit with traditional “aiming” styles.
 
Stumping, as they call it (shooting dead stumps) is one of the most entertaining ways to take a walk. Theres only a few places i can do thst here for all the lava, hard trees, and people, but its fun.

Also try some longer range shooting if you have space and a safe place...and wont loose a ton of arrows. I can practice out to 50yds at the house, but lobing arrows at the archery park i can push back to about 100yds. Watching shafts arc in at range is alot of fun.
I DO have a safe place to shoot long. My local rifle club abandoned a general purpose pit several years ago when a house was built directly downrange near the property line, and it now houses archery bales to 50 yards officially, and 100ish if you go across the road. The sand bank is still there to catch any errant arrows unless extremely overshot. I can and do also shoot reasonably long in my yard, up to 75 with the slope for my septic mound backing the target. My favorite practice with the compound is to stand at the target and toss arrows from 20 to as far as I can throw, and fire them at unknown range into the target. I hope to gain the proficiency to do this eventually with the recurve.

As for "stumping," I've never understood it. Even with blunt points and a very weak 35ish pound compound bow when I tried it in my youth, they drove too far into the wood to retrieve and left the inserts and points behind. I think that may be a PNW rainforest thing, where the stumps rot through. Here in the North, unless it's aspen, they rot from outside in with a very hard core.
 
15 yards and my 3rd group of the day. A ways to go, but at least I'm getting some consistency to build on. Not really sure what my aiming technique is. In the years that I bow fished, I pretty much just " felt " the shot. Here I seem to focus the arrow, then shift to the bullseye. This vertical dispersion is consistent. Any idea on correcting that? My windage is generally good unless I twang a release.
 

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15 yards and my 3rd group of the day. A ways to go, but at least I'm getting some consistency to build on. Not really sure what my aiming technique is. In the years that I bow fished, I pretty much just " felt " the shot. Here I seem to focus the arrow, then shift to the bullseye. This vertical dispersion is consistent. Any idea on correcting that? My windage is generally good unless I twang a release.

Vertical stringing usually is the result of inconsistent draw length. You mentioned having to adjust to a new anchor. That plus the lack of a "back wall" on your recurve, compared to your compound, is probably the trouble.

Some people will mount some kind of a clicker until muscle memory kicks in, but I suspect most people just work at it through repetition.
 
https://www.3riversarchery.com/screw-in-steel-blunt-points.html
Or the rubber blunts are what i used for stumping.

Vertical stringing usually is the result of inconsistent draw length. You mentioned having to adjust to a new anchor. That plus the lack of a "back wall" on your recurve, compared to your compound, is probably the trouble.

Some people will mount some kind of a clicker until muscle memory kicks in, but I suspect most people just work at it through repetition.
Theres a number of ways people compensate for distance, string walkers actually move their hands up and down the string, other people use arrow or point count (how many would fit in the gap between there you see the front of the arrow and the target), many shoot "instinctual" which is actually just running on autopilot after lots of repetition.
Some folks prefer to run pins.

The constant tho is finding your comfortable and repeatable anchor as @.38 Special said. For me that means i touch my cheek right at the edge of my mouth. If i get my head in a wierd position, or screw up the release, the sting hits my face which is a quick reminder to "DO IT RIGHT"

With a compound i actually locked my thumb behind my jaw.
 
Here's some instant feedback on your advice. Thanks! Concentration on my anchor yielded this. 4 were so good, I decided to risk my knocks and shoot 2 more. Time to step it back tomorrow or I'll be fixing arrows. My muscles are getting tired, but I managed 50 or so before I started feeling fatigue, so I think this weight will work for me.
 

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Here's some instant feedback on your advice. Thanks! Concentration on my anchor yielded this. 4 were so good, I decided to risk my knocks and shoot 2 more. Time to step it back tomorrow or I'll be fixing arrows. My muscles are getting tired, but I managed 50 or so before I started feeling fatigue, so I think this weight will work for me.
Looking good!
50 arrows before fatigue sets in is actually more than i can handle right now with my 55+ bows......i should probably go practice lol!
 
An update on my progress. I think I'm basically up to 20 yard hunting proficiency. When I do it right, I can keep 6 in a 6" circle consistently at random range from 15-23 yards. Known distance grouping at 20 is tighter. I'm still getting an occasional wild arrow with known cause. Either twanged release or blown follow through. Practice and concentration will cure that.

I've also begun playing with longer ranges up to 40 yards. Given the arc of the arrow and limited penetration, I wouldn't consider shooting a deer that far, but makes for fun and challenging practice. I'm satisfied when I can keep them all on the bale at 40, at 30 I'm getting 4/6 in the 6" circle mostly. My first batch of arrows are taking some wear and are in need of repair, so supplies are on order for that. I also ordered an additional 12 Easton 6.5 carbons as recommended by 3 Rivers. They have really been a good resource through this with some solid recommendations. The 50# DW seems about right to me. Was a bit heavy at first, but now I'm able to hold it at full draw for 20 seconds and still deliver an accurate shot ( a drill I practice with increased frequency as hunting season approaches. I always do it for the first shot of the session).

So a question for those who hunt successfully with traditional bows. I'm shooting a carbon/shield fletched LW arrow and presently shooting 125 grain field points. What broadheads would be most effective in my situation for whitetail deer? I've looked into the Zwickeys, but they are a bit on the heavy side. I'm already getting a pretty rotund trajectory at 125 grains beyond 20 yards, and not sure I wish to go much heavier. The Montec is on my radar, as well as a couple of other 3 or 4 blade screw in options. I think I still have a pack of the old Bear Razorheads somewhere in screw-in configuration.
 
I recommended the Zwickeys more for the traditional look, but they are very effective. Montecs are also, that's why I hunted with them last time. (I have nerve damage in my left arrm, hard to hold a bow anymore.)

When I started a traditional bow, I had fiberglass shafts with Zwickeys on them. Take about rainbow trajectories! They were left over from when my Dad had a recurve, before I broke it by swinging in the basement rafters. ( I was 8.)
 
When I started a traditional bow, I had fiberglass shafts with Zwickeys on them. Take about rainbow trajectories! They were left over from when my Dad had a recurve, before I broke it by swinging in the basement rafters. ( I was 8.)
I had a bunch of those old fiberglass shafts from an estate sale. I converted them into "light" bowfishing arrows back in the day. Man were they heavy, but lighter than standard bowfishing arrows. Fit my use well as I had longer ranges as I usually stalked basking carp from shore or wading rather than a boat.
 
An update on my progress. I think I'm basically up to 20 yard hunting proficiency. When I do it right, I can keep 6 in a 6" circle consistently at random range from 15-23 yards. Known distance grouping at 20 is tighter. I'm still getting an occasional wild arrow with known cause. Either twanged release or blown follow through. Practice and concentration will cure that.

I've also begun playing with longer ranges up to 40 yards. Given the arc of the arrow and limited penetration, I wouldn't consider shooting a deer that far, but makes for fun and challenging practice. I'm satisfied when I can keep them all on the bale at 40, at 30 I'm getting 4/6 in the 6" circle mostly. My first batch of arrows are taking some wear and are in need of repair, so supplies are on order for that. I also ordered an additional 12 Easton 6.5 carbons as recommended by 3 Rivers. They have really been a good resource through this with some solid recommendations. The 50# DW seems about right to me. Was a bit heavy at first, but now I'm able to hold it at full draw for 20 seconds and still deliver an accurate shot ( a drill I practice with increased frequency as hunting season approaches. I always do it for the first shot of the session).

So a question for those who hunt successfully with traditional bows. I'm shooting a carbon/shield fletched LW arrow and presently shooting 125 grain field points. What broadheads would be most effective in my situation for whitetail deer? I've looked into the Zwickeys, but they are a bit on the heavy side. I'm already getting a pretty rotund trajectory at 125 grains beyond 20 yards, and not sure I wish to go much heavier. The Montec is on my radar, as well as a couple of other 3 or 4 blade screw in options. I think I still have a pack of the old Bear Razorheads somewhere in screw-in configuration.
Ive shot mostly 3 blade 125s, muzzys and cabelas for the most part. Those will both go clean thru one of our axis deer with little issue.
For goats I use pretty much what ever cheap 125s I can find.
Generally Ill broad head test/tune my arrows as part of tuning, so if you HAVENT done that yet, you will. Once THATs done, your very likely to have fewer errant shots. From experience with how I shoot most bows, a 125 broadhead in a properly spined and aligned arrow will deliver similar accuracy/poi to a 125 field point.
 
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