Hi guys, I'm really interested in the possibility of converting a S&W Model 60 to 9mm. I love the little steel framed .357 '60's, and the only thing I might love more is a little steel framed 9mm '60. I hear the 9mm really picks up speed out of short revolvers relative to .38's etc and is especially attractive due to low(er) muzzle blast and recoil vs .38+P's and .357's. Now, any hope of having a spare cylinder made up for 9mm? (And who might be able to do such a thing).
A last and final consideration, given how well 9mm supposedly performs out of short revolvers, what do you believe contributes to this performance? The short case? Given similar bullet weights (124gr 9mm, 125gr .357) I hear the 9mm bites on the heels of the .357 with a LOT less powder (I've never verified this, just reiterating what others have said/speculated). Apparently it beats the .38's too... How so?
Now a last consideration spinning off the one above, as I'm a rather experimental handloader I've played with a 1" cased .38 based on a .357 case. I used to cut the cases down to 1.0", and load them with 3.0 or 3.5grs of Titegroup stuffed onto the primer by dacron filling capped by a 158gr SWC or the like for ultra quiet varminting loads out of my Marlin 1894. They worked like a charm, surprising "pop" off very little powder. Do you think that by cutting down .357 cases (to deal with pressures likely close to 9mm) and loading 9mm type powders (Universal, Titegroup) with bonafied .357" bullets you could reach performace equal to the 9mm's in a short revolver in the M60? I'll have to try this and find out... But I'd still like a 9mm cylinder... As one more thought, if one could find a way to size 9mm brass appropriately for .357" bullets (as the S&W 940's used a .357" bore anyhow) this might work alright and improve accuracy slighty too...
Lots of thinking in this post.
A last and final consideration, given how well 9mm supposedly performs out of short revolvers, what do you believe contributes to this performance? The short case? Given similar bullet weights (124gr 9mm, 125gr .357) I hear the 9mm bites on the heels of the .357 with a LOT less powder (I've never verified this, just reiterating what others have said/speculated). Apparently it beats the .38's too... How so?
Now a last consideration spinning off the one above, as I'm a rather experimental handloader I've played with a 1" cased .38 based on a .357 case. I used to cut the cases down to 1.0", and load them with 3.0 or 3.5grs of Titegroup stuffed onto the primer by dacron filling capped by a 158gr SWC or the like for ultra quiet varminting loads out of my Marlin 1894. They worked like a charm, surprising "pop" off very little powder. Do you think that by cutting down .357 cases (to deal with pressures likely close to 9mm) and loading 9mm type powders (Universal, Titegroup) with bonafied .357" bullets you could reach performace equal to the 9mm's in a short revolver in the M60? I'll have to try this and find out... But I'd still like a 9mm cylinder... As one more thought, if one could find a way to size 9mm brass appropriately for .357" bullets (as the S&W 940's used a .357" bore anyhow) this might work alright and improve accuracy slighty too...
Lots of thinking in this post.