Shawn Dodson
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The OP is asking for advice about plain ol' marksmanship.
In the other thread I clarified:
Cheers!
Cooper, Cirello, or Applegate?
- Thread starter dovedescending
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In the other thread I clarified:
Cheers!
MCgunner
Member
One thing I never liked about IDPA was that you're shooting to the rules of the stage. There are no rules in a gunfight and I might just rather jump behind cover before I fire a single shot. The situation isn't going to necessarily have rules. Got to think on your feet as it were, not follow a stage guideline where the RO is telling you where you must move and how many rounds you must shoot.
That said, it is fun and good marksmanship practice and will get a little adrenaline flowing.
That said, it is fun and good marksmanship practice and will get a little adrenaline flowing.
MCgunner
Member
Oh, for a good, cheap target backer, I like freezer paper. Besides, I always have a roll being as it comes in handy when I shoot a hog.
Guillermo
member
BTW
One of the greatest in the world is Jerry Miculek. He is also a very nice guy.
Prince that he is, shooting lessons like this are available for free.
Also remember, we are ALL, learning all the time... even a master like Jerry.
http://www.shootingusa.com/PRO_TIPS/JERRY_MICULEK/jerry_miculek.html
One of the greatest in the world is Jerry Miculek. He is also a very nice guy.
Prince that he is, shooting lessons like this are available for free.
Also remember, we are ALL, learning all the time... even a master like Jerry.
http://www.shootingusa.com/PRO_TIPS/JERRY_MICULEK/jerry_miculek.html
Guillermo
member
double post
NMGonzo
Member
i tell you about my learning curve
I am wearing off my blueing on my 1911 practicing the slow draw.
How fast is fast enough?
As a previous poster said; it all comes down to your willingness of firing your weapon under the given circumstances.
Hitting the target is a whole different ball game.
I am wearing off my blueing on my 1911 practicing the slow draw.
How fast is fast enough?
As a previous poster said; it all comes down to your willingness of firing your weapon under the given circumstances.
Hitting the target is a whole different ball game.
Shawn Dodson
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- Dec 28, 2002
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- 3,229
Absolutely! A good, comfortable grip that doesn't allow the gun to shift in the hands when the muzzle flips upward during recoil.
Guillermo
member
and using the weak hand more than the shooting hand for recoil control.
I would suggest getting VERY familiar with your trigger, rather you use a SA or DA pistol/revolver. Practice dry-firing with a 3x (at least!) verified empty firearm. Point it at a safely backed target. Get the trigger pull consistent.
Another practice method I do is to see my target, close my eyes, draw and then open my eyes. My sights should be aligned with the target. If not, then correct it until it is muscle memory as well. BTW, I find that Glocks consistently point above the target, whereas 1911s and similarly angled platforms point at the target. That's my own experience with it, and I'm sure others function just fine with their firearm of choice. The point is to be very familiar with your firearm.
As far as the 3x5 goes, some good suggestions of a larger backer were mentioned, and I would add that you should slow down until you can hit the target. As they say, you can't miss fast enough.
Another practice method I do is to see my target, close my eyes, draw and then open my eyes. My sights should be aligned with the target. If not, then correct it until it is muscle memory as well. BTW, I find that Glocks consistently point above the target, whereas 1911s and similarly angled platforms point at the target. That's my own experience with it, and I'm sure others function just fine with their firearm of choice. The point is to be very familiar with your firearm.
As far as the 3x5 goes, some good suggestions of a larger backer were mentioned, and I would add that you should slow down until you can hit the target. As they say, you can't miss fast enough.
David E
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- 7,459
Sure it is, but it's but one piece of the puzzle. If a person can't hit slow-fire without a draw involved, they won't be able to hit going faster from the holster.
A very large part is trigger control. I can hold a 1911 using only my thumb and middle finger and make good slowfire hits, or even holding the gun upside down. EVERYTHING is wrong about the grip, but in slowfire, it doesn't matter, as long as sight picture, sight alignment and trigger control is there.
But once basic marksmanship skill is established, a consistent, full contact grip from the holster is key in getting fast, accurate shots.
it has been my experience that while it is an important part, it is far from the "key". as Davis E has posted, you can hold a pistol all wrong and still get good hits with proper trigger control
consistent is a key word, in that you could do everything wrong
1. trigger control
2. sight alignment
3. grip
...and as long as you did it the same every time, the shot would go into the same place...it just doesn't cope well with variations
just about anyone is able to hold a pistol well enough and hold their sights close enough to shoot tiny groups if they learn trigger control. we prove this all the time by having student hold and sight while we manage the trigger
Start at the beginning
DOVE,
I have worked in law enforcement for almost 20 years and we have gone through several different shooting styles.
I would not worry about them. Pick one and stick with it. Once you have mastered it, then consider the others. Forget COOPER, CIRILLO and FAIRBURN. Think MYSELF HITTING THE TARGET!
The best method is to get training from a qualified trainer or school. It will make a world of difference.
Otherwise, I would recommend that you need to hit the target before you do anything else. Start with an easy to control gun, like a .22 rimfire or a medium frame .38 Special revolver using WADCUTTERS (recoil is low and you can see what is happening at close range). Once you hit the target at close range, move it out.
SIGHTS, GRIP, TRIGGER CONTROL. Get them down.
You can try different holds, like the weaver and turret stance as well as one handed. I would USE ONLY ONE STYLE. JUST ONE till you get on target all the time.
I use the turret (also called equalateral or triange) and Weaver hold most of the time. They work for me. You need to stick with one and get it down.
My agency only allows one handed at 3 yards during our qualification drill. The old I&NS drill used 1 handed starting at 1.5 yards with a SPEED ROCK one handed draw and fire without sights. We tucked the grip of the BERETTA against our ribs and fired at what we were looking at. It worked to a limited degree.
Once you can hit the target over and over again, then go up in caliber. Move to a .38 Special or 9m.m. and do the same. If you use proper ammo, you can stay at this caliber level or go to a higher power range like the m.m.+P+, .357 magnum or a bigger bore.
Start close, say 3 yards, then 7 yards and then 10 yards. My present agency shoots only to 15 yards, not the 25 yards we used in I&NS. Put accuracy ahead of speed. Practice and you will get faster. The point is to do it enough so that you can move on to the draw.
I went through the academy at FLETC (Federal Law Enforcement Training Center) and if they did not get the "hitting the target" part down during firearms training, they would be plain dangerous when they started the "drawing or presentation" part.
Good luck with whichever way you go.
Jim
DOVE,
I have worked in law enforcement for almost 20 years and we have gone through several different shooting styles.
I would not worry about them. Pick one and stick with it. Once you have mastered it, then consider the others. Forget COOPER, CIRILLO and FAIRBURN. Think MYSELF HITTING THE TARGET!
The best method is to get training from a qualified trainer or school. It will make a world of difference.
Otherwise, I would recommend that you need to hit the target before you do anything else. Start with an easy to control gun, like a .22 rimfire or a medium frame .38 Special revolver using WADCUTTERS (recoil is low and you can see what is happening at close range). Once you hit the target at close range, move it out.
SIGHTS, GRIP, TRIGGER CONTROL. Get them down.
You can try different holds, like the weaver and turret stance as well as one handed. I would USE ONLY ONE STYLE. JUST ONE till you get on target all the time.
I use the turret (also called equalateral or triange) and Weaver hold most of the time. They work for me. You need to stick with one and get it down.
My agency only allows one handed at 3 yards during our qualification drill. The old I&NS drill used 1 handed starting at 1.5 yards with a SPEED ROCK one handed draw and fire without sights. We tucked the grip of the BERETTA against our ribs and fired at what we were looking at. It worked to a limited degree.
Once you can hit the target over and over again, then go up in caliber. Move to a .38 Special or 9m.m. and do the same. If you use proper ammo, you can stay at this caliber level or go to a higher power range like the m.m.+P+, .357 magnum or a bigger bore.
Start close, say 3 yards, then 7 yards and then 10 yards. My present agency shoots only to 15 yards, not the 25 yards we used in I&NS. Put accuracy ahead of speed. Practice and you will get faster. The point is to do it enough so that you can move on to the draw.
I went through the academy at FLETC (Federal Law Enforcement Training Center) and if they did not get the "hitting the target" part down during firearms training, they would be plain dangerous when they started the "drawing or presentation" part.
Good luck with whichever way you go.
Jim
The shot timer and the target will tell you which technique is more appropriate, and if you don't have a shot timer, get one.
Use the technique that will allow you to consistently land fast accurate rounds at a given range, based on the amount of training you can afford to do throughout the week.
Use the technique that will allow you to consistently land fast accurate rounds at a given range, based on the amount of training you can afford to do throughout the week.
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