In your opinion, is it worth it for a semi-auto MSR like an AR15, AR10 or FN-FAL or PTR91?Hard brass or work hardened brass splits. Anneal to soften and they dont crack as fast.
In your opinion, is it worth it for a semi-auto MSR like an AR15, AR10 or FN-FAL or PTR91?
View attachment 1052459What caused this?
5.56
Winchester brass, 55 gr Hornady sp, 25 gr IMR 4064. CCI srp.
Fired from 2 different rifles.
It puts the flutes in it for sure. I feel like I should only expect to get about 2-3 loadings out of the brass anyways so I have always held off on annealing it and I just make sure I keep it all sorted by the number of times it has been fired to try to keep neck tension uniform. The ARs aren't too bad on brass but still, after the 3rd firing, I'm not picking it up again.Maybe not the PTR91 if it treats brass like my CETME did.
View attachment 1052459What caused this?
5.56
Winchester brass, 55 gr Hornady sp, 25 gr IMR 4064. CCI srp.
Fired from 2 different rifles.
Looks like the handy work of an expander ball system in a full length die.
Watching this thread purely for educational purposes. I've been told split necks are not caused by excessive pressure. Am I misinformed?What do the primers look like? Any other signs of excessive pressure? If not you just might have a bad batch of brass like the others said.
Watching this thread purely for educational purposes. I've been told split necks are not caused by excessive pressure. Am I misinformed?
My annealing effectively triples the brass life, so, yes, I feel it is worth it.In your opinion, is it worth it for a semi-auto MSR like an AR15,
Whether annealed or not when using a basic expander ball system the brass gets pushed and compressed from both sides like an English wheel where sooner or later brass gets thinned out.RCBS full length die.
My annealing effectively triples the brass life, so, yes, I feel it is worth it.