16in50calNavalRifle
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- Joined
- Mar 7, 2009
- Messages
- 355
In the archives there is a thread on this topic from 273 days ago - actual issue was crimping plated bullets, but seems the solution is the same as for jacketed. I tried to revive it, but was not allowed to do so by the rules that appear to govern revival of zombie threads. So - here goes.
Issue is how to crimp jacketed bullets - without cannelure or groove of any kind - for revolver rounds. In my case, jacketed 125 grain 38/357 bullets that I want to load in both 38 and 357 brass.
I assume the solution, as discussed in the old thread, is to taper crimp.
Walkalong and others noted the use of a taper crimp-only die (either the Redding, or the Lee). I checked the Lee website, and their product description for their entire line of taper crimp dies states "Jacketed bullets must have a crimp groove." The specific product description for the 38/357 taper crimp die, however, says nothing about the requirement for a cannelure or groove.
If the 38 taper crimp die works for both 38 and 357, on jacketed bullets without a groove, then I guess that's my answer.
But I confess to liking the another solution that Walkalong and bergmen, in the old thread, said they used in some cases - using similar-sized semi-auto seating dies (9mm for 38/357, in my case) to taper crimp the revolver round.
For those that have done this, do you just back out the die from its normal position and slowly screw it down in until you get the crimp you need?
Or could this be the perfect role for the often unloved FCD? Seat the bullet with seating die (backed out so that it only seats the bullet and does not apply any crimp), then crimp with the 9mm FCD?
Comments or suggestions welcome.
Issue is how to crimp jacketed bullets - without cannelure or groove of any kind - for revolver rounds. In my case, jacketed 125 grain 38/357 bullets that I want to load in both 38 and 357 brass.
I assume the solution, as discussed in the old thread, is to taper crimp.
Walkalong and others noted the use of a taper crimp-only die (either the Redding, or the Lee). I checked the Lee website, and their product description for their entire line of taper crimp dies states "Jacketed bullets must have a crimp groove." The specific product description for the 38/357 taper crimp die, however, says nothing about the requirement for a cannelure or groove.
If the 38 taper crimp die works for both 38 and 357, on jacketed bullets without a groove, then I guess that's my answer.
But I confess to liking the another solution that Walkalong and bergmen, in the old thread, said they used in some cases - using similar-sized semi-auto seating dies (9mm for 38/357, in my case) to taper crimp the revolver round.
For those that have done this, do you just back out the die from its normal position and slowly screw it down in until you get the crimp you need?
Or could this be the perfect role for the often unloved FCD? Seat the bullet with seating die (backed out so that it only seats the bullet and does not apply any crimp), then crimp with the 9mm FCD?
Comments or suggestions welcome.