Current cleaning rod technology

[Project355]

I used to have a nice one piece stainless rod with a sliding brass cone at one end, but its gone to the ex with all of my (former) guns and gear. These days, I've got several ARs, an AK, and now a one of my bucket list rifles, a Winchester 92.

For the AR and AK rifles, cleaning from the breech with a Section-8 rod is fine. I've got a bore guide for both, and it all works out well. But... I started looking at new one piece rods and "Holy muzzle wear Batman!" there are a lot of variants on things these days.

I see stainless, carbon fibre, brass, coated, etc. I always thought hard stainless was good, because it would not let particles embed and thus abrade the barrel. Naturally, I'd still use a guide.... I don't see taking the 92 apart to clean from the breech with every use, or even when running the occasional patch down the barrel when stored. So....

What's with the carbon fiber and coated rods though? Sounds faddish to me.

The ol' man needs some schoolin'up... any help appreciated!

 

[Outlaw75]

Coated are nylon coated steel rods that won't scratch your bore. I use the ones made by JDewey.

https://deweyrods.com/product-category/gun-cleaning-individual-rods/nylon-coated/

I think the main difference between using a coated rod and a stainless is that some solvents will eat the nylon coating. If that were the case you'd want to use a stainless.

 

[wiscoaster]

I have carbon-fibre rods of handgun and rifle lengths and I think they work just great, and I don't have to worry about them marring my firewarm. Maybe they're a little too flexible when you really want to shove a pad through a bore, but otherwise no complaints.

 

[shoobe01]

Seen a couple carbon fiber rods break. Not sure how, but it happened.

Dewey seems to still be the go to for most folks, and of the several types I have (including Tipton carbon fiber). I have never had an issue with the coating picking up stuff, melting, etc. and have done many things to it. I do wipe it most times when it leaves the bore to not have a several foot long stick of unknown goo and dirt waving around.

 

[dcarr]

I have carbon-fibre rods of handgun and rifle lengths and I think they work just great, and I don't have to worry about them marring my firewarm. Maybe they're a little too flexible when you really want to shove a pad through a bore, but otherwise no complaints.

I've got one of those rods I use just on my marlin lever, it is too flexible, been waiting to break it. Especially when I'm pushing the remington squeege (.45 cal) through.

 

[JPIMBO]

The Dewey rods come in caliber sizes also. I ve had a coated rod for about 19 years. The coating is getting a little worn on the outside edge. I like it, has done good work in .264.

 

[edwardware]

I use a pair (.22 and .270+) of Tipton CF rods. I'm pretty sure you could drive a tent stake with them, and they're unharmed by my Copper Killer solvent, unlike the 'solvent proof' coated rod that melts in my favorite solvent.

 

[Riomouse911]

I use Dewey coated stainless rods for my rifles. I have a long for .20 -26 and a long .270 -338, and a shorter .35 rod for my PCC, .35 Rem, .45/70 etc.

For pistols I have a .22 cal Shooters Choice rod for my longer handgun barrels, other no-name ones for autos with up to 6” barrels.
I have a jag set from Brownells that has jags from .17-458, using one a size or two smaller allows me to squeeze an extra patch onto it. This seems to get the patch material down into the grooves really well.

Stay safe.

 

[Walkalong]

There are two trains of thought, bare steel, coated steel, both have fans. One piece of course, with a good bore guide.

Well, then there are the folks who think we are all nuts.

 

[Offfhand]

Whatever type of cleaning rod you choose, it is desirable that the rod diameter be as close as possible to the caliber of the rifle you are cleaning. Which reduces rod flexing and bowing. Also be sure to have at least two of each size: one for correct size jag (Integral jags are best, such as custom made by Ivy Rods.) and one or two more for brushes. Proper size bore guides are also essential, with guides that closely fit the rifle's action and also closely fit the rod diameter. Most gun shops stock only generic size rod guides guides, which is usually only a poor chose at best, and often even more harmful than no guide at all. Custom guides are best and a smart investment. Also take good care of your rods and keep them clean. I protest my rods on a rack like shown here, and in a protective case when traveling. .

 

[dcarr]

Whatever type of cleaning rod you choose, it is desirable that the rod diameter be as close as possible to the caliber of the rifle you are cleaning. Which reduces rod flexing and bowing. Also be sure to have at least two of each size: one for correct size jag (Integral jags are best, such as custom made by Ivy Rods.) and one or two more for brushes. Proper size bore guides are also essential, with guides that closely fit the rifle's action and also closely fit the rod diameter. Most gun shops stock only generic size rod guides guides, which is usually only a poor chose at best, and often even more harmful than no guide at all. Custom guides are best and a smart investment. Also take good care of your rods and keep them clean. I protest my rods on a rack like shown here, and in a protective case when traveling. .View attachment 942239

I really had no idea and I'm an old guy who grew up with guns around Thank you

 

[BigBL87]

I use the Tipton carbon fiber rods for my rifles. They are a little more flexible than a steel rod obviously but I've never felt like I was going to break them or anything. I think the big idea with them is that in the event they DO contact the bore, the carbon fiber shouldn't do anything to metal for obvious reasons. The coated rods are a similar idea, but IMO the coating is more likely to pick up potentially abrasive particles. I do use bore guides on all my rifles, so that helps with my peace of mind. I also have boresnakes for all except my recently purchased 243 for when I want to just clean the bore real quick.

 

[Skylerbone]

I have 8 or 9 Pro-Shot SS rods, all 1-piece save the shotgun, and a few Dewey and Hoppe’s Elite. Wish the Pro-Shots would rotate but they work and more importantly can serve to remove a squib if need be.

For the actual cleaning I keep loops, pierce jags, and nylon brushes, use the appropriate size patches, and wipe the rod down between every pass. A good bore guide for each is excellent advice though I don’t always follow it myself.

 

[denton]

I use a steel rod that I covered with electronic shrink tubing. Cheap, can't scratch.

 

[Riomouse911]

I use a steel rod that I covered with electronic shrink tubing. Cheap, can't scratch.

I never thought about doing that, great idea!

Stay safe.

 

[bfoosh006]

FWIW...All mine are coated steel. Dewey and Pro-Shot.

 

[JPIMBO]

Isn’t Dewey English? I had to have thread converter put on so my jag would fit.

 

[Varminterror]

At the end of the day, it’s really just a stick, and it’s relatively cheap. Don’t overthink it, because it’s really quite simple. Steel on steel is bad. Sharp edges on rifling is bad. One piece is good. Carbon fiber or coated steel with sufficient stiffness (diameter) to avoid contact as much as possible is good. Flip a coin to decide between them.

 

[Outlaw75]

Isn’t Dewey English? I had to have thread converter put on so my jag would fit.

Connecticut. They make a lot of rods that have a male end and have their own line female ended jags. The converters are so you can use other manufacturers male ended jags, which seems to be standard.

 

[daniel craig]

I still use the crappy 3 piece steel rod the army gave me. Never saw a reason to use something else.

 

[3% outdoorsman]

Carbon fiber is way to go.no coating to wear off and want damage bore like metal ones.

Tipton are the ones I use

 

[doubleh]

I like the polished stainless rods like Kleanbore makes. Maybe carbon fiber and plastic coated rods can't pick up and retain tiny grit or maybe they can but I know the stainless can't and the polish won't let them harm anything. Whatever your choice a quick wipe with a clean rag now and then helps.

 

[Project355]

Just a follow up.... Ended up getting a Kleen-Bore rod, stainless, with ball bearing handle and semi-captive muzzle guard/cone. It worked for me in the past, why change?

 

[lightman]

I use Dewey coated stainless rods for my rifles. I have a long for .20 -26 and a long .270 -338, and a shorter .35 rod for my PCC, .35 Rem, .45/70 etc.

For pistols I have a .22 cal Shooters Choice rod for my longer handgun barrels, other no-name ones for autos with up to 6” barrels.
I have a jag set from Brownells that has jags from .17-458, using one a size or two smaller allows me to squeeze an extra patch onto it. This seems to get the patch material down into the grooves really well.

Stay safe.

This is almost exactly what I do. I also clean from the breech when possible using a bore guide.

 

[Project355]

Me too, except... on my new '92, I'd have to do more "breakdown" than I care to on a regular basis, just to clean it.