Cut Full Choke Barrel back to Modified Choke Diameter?

[Recruit]

I want to shoot slugs from my H&R 20 gauge Topper but understand the full choke may be a little tight to do so safely.

Should I cut the barrel back until the muzzle I.D. is at modified choke diameter? If accuracy is not good at this point, cut off a little more for an open/cylinder diameter and hope for the best? I'd cut about an inch at a time using a pipe cutter to get a square cut.

BTW, what is the standard diameter for a 20 gauge modified choke?

 

[rcmodel]

The choke taper in your barrel is probably no more then an inch long at best.

I don't think cutting it off with a pipe cutter is going to work out for you at all.

You would be better off using a flap of emery cloth in a split dowel rod in a drill and open it up that way.

The difference between Full & Mod in a 20 ga is about .009" of an inch.

Another .006" between Mod & IC.

Or put another way, .015" between Full and IC.

On the other hand?
There is NO safety issue shooting Forster type rifled slugs in a full choke barrel.
The slug starts out smaller then the Full choke constriction, and can squeeze down further if necessary.

I suggest you leave the barrel unmolested until you have tried shooting slugs in it.
It may do just fine the way it is.

rc

 

[jmr40]

Can't add much to RC's post, but just to emphasize some points. A slug should be just fine in a full choke. You might find a modified or IC will shoot more accurately, might not, but it is not dangerous.

If you do decide to cut the barrel, even 1" you will end up with a true cylinder bore. That might prove to be more accurate, but you'll never know until you cut, and you cannot put it back after cutting if not.

If you do cut, don't use a pipe cutter. A sharp hacksaw works best. Then use a file and square to true up the end and remove any left over material. Be sure you don't cut too short to be legal.

 

[Recruit]

You've got me thinkin' RC. I've read both ok and not ok to shoot slugs through a full choke. Pretty typical for most boards though where everyone's an expert...including me sometimes . You've been around for some time though and I trust your judgement.

Is accuracy my only real "concern" with a full choke then? I'm not sure what would be considered poor accuracy for a smooth bore...say larger than a 4"group at 100 yards before considering to open up the bore a little? (I have a lead sled to help keep groups objective).

Also, is the dowel/emory cloth setup like a flag...meaning wrap the dowel with the emory cloth after anchoring it in the slot? I like this option much better than cutting the barrel.

 

[Recruit]

Thanks JMR. Is the barrel just too hard for a pipe cutter?

 

[chas08]

Is the barrel just too hard for a pipe cutter?

No, a pipe cutter would cut it, but it will leave an internal ridge in the bore that may be smaller than your full choke constriction! Do what RC said and shoot it as is. Foster style slugs are safe in all common fixed choke restrictions such as full or modified. Only accuracy may, or may not, suffer!

 

[1KPerDay]

You've got me thinkin' RC. I've read both ok and not ok to shoot slugs through a full choke.

It is perfectly okay to shoot typical "rifled" soft-lead Foster-type slugs through a full choke in modern firearms. The "riflings" are angled specifically to allow room behind the material as it swages down through restrictive chokes. That's what they were designed to do. They don't spin.

It is NOT okay to shoot hardened, Brenneke-type slugs through a full choke.

 

[ZVP]

All a pipe cutter will do is raise a ridge inside the barrel.
WHen I chopped my pumpgun I just uaed a fresh Hacksaw Blade and squared it off with a file and emory paper.
Just a hint, wrap masking tape around the barrel at the cut point, it helps line up the saw cut.
HTH.
BPDave

 

[czarjl]

I'm not sure of the age of your H&R, but their web site has manuals http://www.hr1871.com/Support/manuals.asp and if shooting slugs out of a full choke was dangerous it would be in there.

Now as for accuarcy i would say 4 MOA groups out of a smoth bore with slugs is IMHO very good. If you want better accuracy you may want to look at a new rifled barrel from H&R http://www.hr1871.com/Support/accessoryProgram.asp, but they have a cost attached.

Shoot it first, then figure out what you want to do.

 

[rcmodel]

if shooting slugs out of a full choke was dangerous it would be in there.

And there would be huge red warnings on every box of slugs.

And enough people suing the ammo companies for gun damage that don't read warnings to put them out of business.

But there isn't.

IMO: 4" at 100 yards is a little overly optimistic for any smooth bore barrel shooting rifled slugs.

rc

 

[Recruit]

Thanks again guys. I picked up a few boxes of Federal Truball and Winchester Super X rifled slugs today. No markings on either regarding choke limitations.

If accuracy is poor, looks like I could remove close to 1/4" from the barrel and still keep the bead sight. May or may not be modified choke territory but at least less than full.

 

[rcmodel]

DO Not try to cut the choke off.

Open it up as I described in post #2 with emery cloth, or a choke reamer, or a brake cylinder hone.

If you cut it back, the gradual taper will be partially removed, and no telling what choke it will be then.
But it very likely won't be modified.

rc

 

[Recruit]

10-4 RC. No cutting. Hopefully I'll get decent accuracy and not have to do anything.

 

[RSVP2RIP]

How much does it really cost to get the choke opened by a gunsmith? If it does cost more than the gun did originally it would still be worth it to me to have a gun I can use vs. one I can't. C&T choke reamers cost about $100 IIRC and that would give you gunsmith level results plus they are reusable, just follow with a brake cylinder hone (cheap) from the autoparts store. I did it to a Remington 48 Sportsman 16ga that was full choke and reamed it to IC for upland game. Works great now, and the reamer will also work for most 20ga guns. Got plans to open an Ithaca 37 in the future, so thats two guns for about $60 apiece.

 

[Deltaboy1984]

RC is correct only thing I will add is full choke gun kick harder to me than modified or improved when using slugs.

 

[wndwlkr]

If you want to shorten the barrel you'll need to use a metal band or hack saw ,make sure you do not go under federal length ,,it can also be done by clamping the barrel to a miter box and using a hacksaw

 

[PapaG]

Anyone who has tried the every cloth on a dowell knows that you may die of old age before you gain .004 or .005". Or maybe my cloth was not of supercut variety. Great for polishing,not so much for material removal.
I have created chokes by reaming, swaging, jugging and opened them up by cutting, reaming and driving in a tapered mandrel. Never had much luck polishing out to open one up.
I even made an adjustable reamer to jug choke, or open the end of a cheap swaged choke shotgun.
Most of the Savage, H and R and other single shots were choked by simply tapering the ends of the barrel.
Cut a little off at a time, very little, and test. Use a saw, not a pipe cutter

 

[rromeo]

I have seen it said often that Foster slugs are okay, but Brenneke slugs are not. If I buy a box of Winchester Super X at Wal-Mart, are those Foster slugs? How do I tell the difference?

 

[SARuger]

I had my H&R Pardner 20g drilled and taped for TruChokes, $85 and some shipping to the barrel smith. I want to say it Bob or Bill Orlin? somewhere up north.

EDIT: It was Mike Orlen

Here is a link to his prices, an old link, better call first!

http://www.randywakeman.com/shotgunMikeOrlen.htm

 

[Kp321]

US made shotgun slugs will be Foster style. European made slugs more than likely will be Brennke.

 

[SARuger]

Looking back through this thread I see that rcmodel contributed. I miss that guy, he always gave great advice, rip.

My 20g pardner is my go-to woods gun. I have 10 other 20g shotguns and I choose to carry this little lightweight in the woods for general hunting. It's a great little gun!

 

[Merle1]

Anyone who has tried the every cloth on a dowell knows that you may die of old age before you gain .004 or .005". Or maybe my cloth was not of supercut variety. Great for polishing,not so much for material removal.
I have created chokes by reaming, swaging, jugging and opened them up by cutting, reaming and driving in a tapered mandrel. Never had much luck polishing out to open one up.
I even made an adjustable reamer to jug choke, or open the end of a cheap swaged choke shotgun.
Most of the Savage, H and R and other single shots were choked by simply tapering the ends of the barrel.
Cut a little off at a time, very little, and test. Use a saw, not a pipe cutter

Years ago I used an automotive brake cylinder hone to open a choke. It worked very well.

 

[PapaG]

Years ago I used an automotive brake cylinder hone to open a choke. It worked very well.

I still use a hone, either the one with two stones, or the newer "dingleberry" one for polishing out choke or after reaming forcing cones longer. Never seems to remove much material but sure smooths out the reamer marks.
Papa