CVA Kentucky Pistol

[mec]

This has the same lockplate as my old percussion CVA mountain pistol. Its marked "Spain" on the inside. The barrel is marked "Jukar." Spent some time with it to day beginning a steep learning curve vis: Flintlocks. I started getting to the point that I could tell how to position the flint for fairly reliable ignition. Best group at 18 yard - below. It was from one hand.

The spanish lock is typical of the old CVAs and has a screw for adjusting trigger pull/ sear engagement.

Was using swiss FFFG for main charge and prime and suspect ignition would have been better if I had noticed earlier that the tan leather flint wrapper was actually a bandaid.

 

[mec]

Tried it today with a real piece of leather in place of the bandaid /buffer in the pistol as it arrived. The trigger pull is reasonably light as the anachronistic spring loaded screw trigger adjustment deal really does work. The lock work is the same as the percussion pistol I have just received- also Marked JUKAR and SPAIN.

This one works very well with 4f as a primer- at least as fast as with the 3f used in the same charge. In other pistols, we are finding, against all printed wisdom, that three f makes for faster ignition than the traditional priming powder. The correct dose of prime seems to be the maximum you can get into the pan without blocking the vent and causing the fuse effect.

Today, I used an American Flint as sold through Dixie Gun Works. They are not highly respected and are roughly rendered. There were two usable ones in a package of five or six- the others being flat slivers of flint with no apparent strenght. I modified the two promising ones by stoning and got them to fit well. Ignition was very good- even though this frizzen does not exactly shower sparks even with the english flints.

The bore on this pistol came significantly rusted but it seems to shoot pretty good anyway.

 

[444]

Nice right up as always.
Off topic a little bit: I recently bought a flint rifle. I have never owned or even fired a flintlock before. I don't know what I am doing, and don't know anyone else that does either.
You mention a few things that concern me.
I wonder if you, or anyone else might post a sticky about how to actually run a flinklock ?

 

[mec]

I'm just getting started with them myself and a sticky from me would probably not be all that informed. There are some real enthusiasts here who will probably oblige.

 

[Mr. Tettnanger]

444-What questions do have? What rifle? I, as many on this board, would be more than happy to get you pointed in the right direction. Blackpowder shooting is my favorite way to "get the lead out". Ask questions....we will help.


Mr. Tettnanger

 

[444]

I don't know enough to ask questions.
The rifle is a T/C Renegade, .50: obviously with a flint lock.
I own a half dozen or so other black powder firearms: all cap lock. I shoot them occasionally and have taken deer with a .50 T/C Renegade cap lock rifle that I have owned for over 20 years. But I have never owned a flink lock.
I don't know how much priming powder to put in the pan. I don't know what to look for in a flint. Appearently you have to be selective about the flints you buy and shape them someone, into some shape.
Basically, I don't know anything about the flint lock and it's operation. The rest of it, I got: the lock is a mystery to me.

 

[oneshooter]

Basic Rocklock 101

#1 The primer charge should be only 1/2 of the pan, sometimes less depending on the rifle. Each is different! But the primer charge should be below the level of the touch hole.

#2 The flint for your rifle should be a 3/4". Knapped black flints are the best IMHO, altho the cut agate will work. You will get fewer shots with it and they are difficult to resharpen.

#3 The flint should not touch the Frizzen or hold the pan open at 1/2 cock. If it does the flint is too long.

#4 The flint needs to be wrapped in apiece of thin leather and or lead as a "shock absorber", this lessens the shock of the flint striking the frizzen. This wrap will go from the top of the flint around the back and across the bottom. This allowes the jaws to tighten on the flint with out breaking it.

#5 When loading the rifle put a small feather or pipe cleaner in the touch hole. This creates a small tunnel in the charge and exposes a larger area to the flash of the primer.

#6 Use a fine grade of powder for priming 3f or 4f. 4f is a little hard to find, but a can will last a long time!

#7 KEEP YOUR FRIZZEN AND PAN CLEAN. Black powder residue is hydroscopic, wipe your pan every 3-4 shots and your frizzen every 6-8 shots.

#8 Relax and enjoy. You have be more patient with a rocklocker. If you can shoot a flinter accuratly, with no flinching, then IMHO you can shoot any rifle accuratly, black or smokeless.

Oneshooter
Livin in Texas

 

[Tinker2]

Oneshooter

Well said.
Well done.

 

[mec]

Jukar caplock:
This is identical to the flintlock except for the percussion set-up. As usual, the percussion pistols records higher velocity than the flint.