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cylinder gap

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pbkluther

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Mar 17, 2011
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colorado
i have a new revolver that i have shot very little to date, Taurus M44 with a 4" bbl. I performed a cylinder gap check as described in a different post and was very pleased to find that it is at .003. also it is extremely tight at full lockup as well, however i can tell that the gap is ever ever ever slightly larger at the bottom of the barrel/cylinder than what it is at the top where they meet. I wouldnt think this is normal, is it? thanks anyone for any input. I am new to this site but am so pleased to have found it and be a member. While obviously we all have many very different opinions, caliber, bullet weights, bullet styles etc., it makes me feel good to see a large group of people united on the one single most important factor regarding our nation and that is our right to arms. My all time favorite: You either stand behind our military or in front of them. thanks
 
i will say after a more extensive examination, the cylinder and the barrel appear to line up perfectly with each other, so i dont see any cause for alarm whatsoever unless someone disagrees.
 
I wouldn't say that there's any cause for alarm. I've always heard that the cylinder gap should be .005-.009. Any looser then it might effect accuracy. Any tighter then it might bind or drag after it gets a bit dirty. If you're shooting it and having no issues then good for you.
I'm shooting more now than I have have before in my life and so are some friends. I've noticed a few revolvers having the cylinders drag on the forcing cone and actually stop working after a few boxes of .38spl. Not trying to trash brands but one was a S&W Model 10 and the other was some J frame Rossi. It took about 2-3 boxes of ammo for them to start having the cylinder drag. It's an easy fix but it's nice to know that a particular gun might give you problems after 100 rnds or so.
Apologies if I'm wrong on the gap. I'm sure someone will correct it.
 
For a dbl action, I usually like them in the .005-007" range. This gives the cylinder a little wiggle room during rotation, and when a little end-shake comes into play. Like Patriot says, after a little shooting, a too tight bbl gap will drag, and could lock the gun up. Ideally, the gap should be the same top and bottom.
 
I like my revolvers to be .004 to .006.

I would make sure the pistol is clean. Then shoot the heck out of it and see if it changes. It might well settle into a 3.5 to .004 measure.

One needs to shoot as clean a burning powder as possible, if not on the quick side of powered burn rate. I never get more than a .001 of residue on the front of my cylinders. Be it full house .357's or wussy wad cutters for the wife to shoot in her 60 Pro.
 
Hi ... I am the owner of your gun's twin probably.

Can you fire 50 rounds without the gap getting tight so it starts dragging?

I mean with dirty cheap ammo.

If so ... worry not.

How do you like your trigger pull?
 
I havent run that many rounds through it yet in one shooting. However, I am totally expecting for that happen. Ive read several posts that describe running a wire brush over it for a quick fix. Also, have only used higher grade ammo so far cause all Ive been concerned with so far is getting it sighted and trying to see what it will group with some quality ammo. But the cheap ammo is sure to come given the expense of it. Theres a company called Bitterroot Valley Ammo that always has a booth at the local gun show here in denver that has some real fair pricing on .44 mag.. box of 50 sells for 32.00, 240 grain JHP.. Anybody have any experience with this? they have 44 special for about the same price maybe a couple dollars less, but it wasnt cheaper by much.
 
triggers alot smoother than the recoil!! It is decent, has a smooth enough and a very consistent and progressive weight to it which i like.
 
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Bitterroot valley is decent shooting accuracy wise but it's smoky and dirty....just right for testing the b/c gap on your gun..
 
thanks for the input on the ammo, i have found much better prices for it online. if i find that the smokier ammo causes issues with the tight cylinder gap can it be remedied by a gunsmith?
 
Leave the gap be, don't worry about it...just be prepared to clean you revolver every few boxes. Not something to worry about. My Colt has a barrel gap of 0.0025. Can it drag when it get's dirty, you bet,,, I carry a little brass brush, takes less time than loading the cylinder.
 
My GP100 does not lock down solid when in full lockup mode(as I understand it to be...slowly pull hammer back,then while holding hammer back pull trigger,then slowly return hammer to firing position?). There is always some slack in the rotation of the cylinder. I took it to a shop owned by a gunsmith and he said not to worry,took out a brand new GP and it had the same rotational slop. I have not gauged the cylinder to barrel width,but it is very tight,though it has never hung up. I clean it often. At the most it might require a touch up with lead cloth.
Am I correct in thinking the slop is normal? I bought the gun new about a year ago and it has probably 2500 or so rounds through it...mostly full magnum loads with 296/H110. Honestly,I was totally new to guns and did not know enough to check these things until much later so I do not know if it came with the slop. I've had many well-seasoned revolver guys check it over recently and all have said I have done absolutely no harm to the gun. Sorry,OP,hadn't intended to write a novel.
 
If the cylinder starts rubbing after 50 rounds or so just clean the cylinder and forcing cone area,a small brass brush does a good job. If it rubs after just one cylinder of shooting try switching ammo first.
If switching ammo doesn't work you may need to send it back because endshake from normal use will close it tight sooner or later. I like B/C gaps as tight as I can get away with. I shoot Dan Wesson centerfire revolvers so I can adjust it for optimal accuracy.
If this is a range gun i'd leave it alone,if it's for self defense and it closes up after one cylinder full it may not prove reliable.
In the end it is your call....I'm not a gun-smith so I just offer my experience to you for what it's worth.
 
I once bought an older used revolver that had an extremely tight cylinder gap. I mean it was so tight that if you loaded it, the cartridge case heads pushed the cylinder forward enough that you couldn't even close the cylinder. I don't see how anyone ever shot it.

I fixed it with 2 strokes on the forcing cone with a hand file. Cheapest little shootin gun I ever bought.
 
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