Cylinder release screw coming loose

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BlackBearME

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The screw that holds on my cylinder release latch (is that what it's called?) comes loose when I fire it or dry-fire it. It hasn't come very loose before, but I was sitting here dry-firing and it just fell off!

Here's what I want to know. I haven't yet had the chance to take off the side-plate (waiting on some good screwdrivers) but I didn't know if this piece needs to be removed for maintenance, or if I could get away with Loctiting it.
 
Depends of what kind of maintenance you're about to do.
If you're gonna just clean its insides or switch springs or remove the wheel etc etc then you dont have to
remove that release latch.
I had the same problem with my revolver and I wrapped the screws threads with plumbers tape and fastened it real tight, never had the problem since.....
Ive done too many mistakes with loctite....cant recommend using it anywhere
unless youre absolutely sure that you never gonna open that screw again.
 
Yeah, that's what I was wondering. Didn't think about plumber's tape, good idea.

I don't know much about revolvers, so I don't want to do anything that is un-doable. I just wasn't sure if I would need to remove this in the future. Looks like the plumber's tape is the way to go.
 
This happened with my Model 29. The S&W tech guy said I could send it in but first to try some clear nail polish on the threads(same stuff I use on the heads of flies I tie to stiffen and water proof materials) screw it back in and let it dry for a half hour. That was 2 years, many cleanings, and a couple of thousand rounds ago and it's doing fine. I think the brand name is Clear Nails. It's tough but not as permanent as Loctite so if you need to remove the screw, you should be able to break its hold. My kind of solution: quick, cheap, and effective.;)

Regards, Jeff
 
That's actually a nut. I would not use lock-tite, often threads are fine and easily damaged by over torque. Take a jewelers loupe and inspect the threads on the threaded portion of what is actually the cylinder bolt / hammer stop bar as well as the internal threads of the nut. If they look good, I would simply, clean, lightly lub, reinstall and snug up; if it comes loose again, I'd use the clear finger nail polish or better yet see if I could find a new nut. Of course if the threads are bad to start with you're going to have to make a change. The screw slot in the nut actually cuts through the end or top of the nut; if finger nail polish is employed then a drop or two of acetone could be applied to that slot to soften the polish. All the oil will need to be remove from the threads before the acetate polish is applied. Like Brylcream a little dab will do ya, use a toothpick not the brush. P.T.
 
I use blue loc-tite, when I need to take the gun down, I heat the head of the screw with a soldering gun. The heat breaks down the loc-tite and they come right out. I used to shoot screws loose all the time till I started using this method. I'm sure the nail polish would work also.
 
Completely degrease the threads in the stud & nut.
Apply one small drop of BLUE #242 Lock-Tight.
Install & tighten.

Any complete & very through cleaning can be done with the action parts removed using gun-scrubber with it still assembled to the frame.

Just like the ejector rod assembly, there is never any legitimate reason to ever take it apart again unless you are stripping the gun for re-bluing.

But BLUE #242 Lock-Tight can easily be broken loose if need be with a properly fitted screw-driver.

That is what it is designed for.

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rcmodel
 
Add'l suggestions I got from the the tech guys at S&W -

Place the gun with cyl. latch down while the lock-tight dries. Be careful with the amount you use. You don't want the stuff running down into the gun.
 
Finger nail polish is a good thread lock. Color doesn't matter, whatever you usually wear :)

A little on the thread, tighten it and you will be fine.

I started working on S&W revolvers in 1981 and have never used lok tite on any threads.
 
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