cylinder replacement for Ruger 3 screw single six 22LR

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stonebuster

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I've got a 1967-68 3 screw Single Six 22LR with a cylinder rotation problem and I'm considering trying to find a replacement cylinder for it since I'm thinking it may be the ratchets causing the problem. Will a replacement cylinder work or does it have to be timed to the specific gun? It's not binding on the forcing cone or the casing heads. It's not the cylinder lock since it's retracted when I have the problem. When it occurs the cylinder will move back and forth freely about 1/2 inch. I can't make it happen without the gun loaded. I realize the hand may be the culprit but I figure I could eliminate the cylinder being the problem for the cost of a cylinder. I don't want to send it to Ruger because they will "upgrade" the gun by adding a transfer bar and I prefer to leave it original. I don't know a gunsmith that's good with older revolvers and I've found not everyone that claims to be a good gunsmith is.
 
Thought a couple photos might be clues to what is happening. I didn't notice any rub marks on casings but I can now see where the cylinder is rubbing at 12 o'clock. There are some marks on the ratchets that I'm not sure are normal. Could the ratchets be worn to the point where the cylinder is coming too far back causing binding and these wear grooves/marks? IMG_1318.JPG IMG_1314.JPG
 
That does look really worn.
I would contact a reputable revolver smith and see what they say.

Someone like Hamilton Bowen
http://www.bowenclassicarms.com/about.html

or Dave Clements
http://www.clementscustomguns.com/

or Jack Huntington
http://www.jrhadvancedgunsmithing.com/

There's no way I would consider sending an old 3 screw back to Ruger unless I verified for certain that they wouldn't screw it up with the "upgrade".
I don't know that they are willing to work on them and return them intact though.
 
I am pretty sure Ruger returns the old parts when they do the transfer bar conversion.

That has been their policy for years. I have not heard of any change in that policy.

However, I don't know if there were enough changes between the old model and the new to allow fitting of new model cylinders. If there were Ruger will not likely have the parts anyway as they are out of parts for many guns that were discontinued/superseded much more recently than the OP's gun. Simple test is to find someone with a new model and do a detailed comparison/measurement of cylinders along with a trial install to assess the possibility of a swap. That will give an idea of the feasibility. Otherwise it might call for a custom cylinder from someone like Bowen, Clements, or Huntington (who are imminently qualified to do the job).
 
If I understand correctly you only have the problem when the lock is retracted. Do I take it that the lock is retracted when the hammer is cocked? If so your problem is in the lock work, possibly just a good cleaning is all that's needed. To me everything in the photos look OK.
 
IMG_1328.JPG I've cleaned everything short of tearing the gun down. I've found the cylinder always locks up before the same cylinder chamber each time when all six are loaded. I marked the cylinder and it always is the same chamber where it locks up. When I removed the one bullet from that chamber I could cycle the gun through all six chambers with no problems. I did this several times to confirm it. I'm getting closer to the root of the problem. If I leave this chamber empty it seems to be fine. Maybe I'll have to settle for a 5 shooter.:(
 
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Or, as said, get a real gunsmith to FIX it. The rim counterbore looks offcenter, I wonder if that could be contributing. If so it would be a simple fix.

On the other hand, old time target shooters would shoot a separate target with each chamber and if one shot differently, they would mark it and not load it. Five shot strings for bullseye, anyhow.

And a three screw Ruger should be loaded with five anyhow. In your case, the SAME five.
I think it was the Virginian Dragoon that had a mark on each side of one chamber so you would know to leave it empty for safe carry.
 
While looking at it with a magnifying glass I spotted the offending case head protruding ever so slightly higher than the rest. I tried it in other chambers and it was still sitting higher than the rest. I put it in another chamber with the rest unloaded and it caused the issue stopping rotation and drawback of the hammer. It looks like that's all it was. It has happened on three range trips now so there must have been a few bad ones in the box of Remington plated Golden Bullets or I kept putting the bad one back not realizing what the problem was. I'll try a different brand next time. Sorry to waste your time. I'll go stand in the corner now. I think the angle I took the picture from made the counter bore look off center. IMG_1331.JPG
 
...there must have been a few bad ones in the box of Remington plated Golden Bullets...
Usually a safe bet.
I think the angle I took the picture from made the counter bore look off center.
Yup. I noticed in your earlier photo showing all the chambers that they all look off center. It's some kind of an optical illusion.
 
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