I read and hear people say "I had some work done and the cylinder spins infinitely or spins like it's on bearings, etc" Is this really important? I mean, I understand the importance if a cylinder doesn't spin when open, but is it really important for a cylinder to spin 'forever' ? My cylinder spins 5-6 revos and then slows down. I'd think at best "endless spinning" be a temporary situation, like saying "my car's new" as you're driving off the car lot. A couple of hundred rounds'd change that.
Cylinder Spin
- Thread starter GeneC
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P95Carry
Moderator Emeritus
Can't say I've heard quite that statement .. tho people do refer to cyl's being ''very free''.
To be honest ... as long as friction is minimal .. and it spins few times ...... I would see zero problem. If that freedom is reflected when crane closed then you'd know that resistance with D/A in particular is not an issue.
If tho a crane ass'y was distorted then after closure, a cyl can still ''go tight''. Then no amount of free spin when open would matter!
The initia to be overcome by cyl rotation is usually the only issue ... or something is wrong somewhere!
To be honest ... as long as friction is minimal .. and it spins few times ...... I would see zero problem. If that freedom is reflected when crane closed then you'd know that resistance with D/A in particular is not an issue.
If tho a crane ass'y was distorted then after closure, a cyl can still ''go tight''. Then no amount of free spin when open would matter!
The initia to be overcome by cyl rotation is usually the only issue ... or something is wrong somewhere!
Round Gun Shooter
Member
Part of a proper action tune up is making sure the cylinder turns freely during the DA trigger pull. It makes a big difference. It is accomplished by polishing certain surfaces without inducing end shake.
I find it the most difficult part of action work.
regards,
I find it the most difficult part of action work.
regards,
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Lights! Action!
'Twas said:
I find it the most difficult part of action work
Nahhhhh...Slurry that sucker and it'll feel like buttered glass.
Tuner
'Twas said:
I find it the most difficult part of action work
Nahhhhh...Slurry that sucker and it'll feel like buttered glass.
Tuner
Round Gun Shooter
Member
I hand stone all my surfaces
I start with removing all end shake yoke and then facing the end of the barrel of the yoke to make sure it is square and smooth. The barrel of the yoke is then smoothed and machine marks removed. Center pin is polished on both ends, bolt face is polished and fitted, locking bolt is polished. After all that the extractor rod is straightened in a jig.
The difficult part of this is that it is time consuming, but I feel it is worth the time.
Please excuse me for not answering sooner but I don't visit every day.
Regards,
I start with removing all end shake yoke and then facing the end of the barrel of the yoke to make sure it is square and smooth. The barrel of the yoke is then smoothed and machine marks removed. Center pin is polished on both ends, bolt face is polished and fitted, locking bolt is polished. After all that the extractor rod is straightened in a jig.
The difficult part of this is that it is time consuming, but I feel it is worth the time.
Please excuse me for not answering sooner but I don't visit every day.
Regards,
RGS, no problem, I just can't stay away. Yeah, I polished the cylinder parts and outside yoke barrel with sandpaper up to 15k grit. That jig you're talking about, did you make it?
Tuner, you said 'slurry that sucker'. What sucker, inside and outside the yoke barrel?
Tuner, you said 'slurry that sucker'. What sucker, inside and outside the yoke barrel?
Round Gun Shooter
Member
The jig was made by a machinist at S&W. I was able to purchase it when I went to the armorer's school many years ago
Basically, it is a yoke barrel installed on a block. I welded the block to a plate and etched a reference line with a scribe to make it easier to see that the rod is true.
Here is the only picture I have of it.
Regards,
1911Tuner
Moderator Emeritus
Yoke Barrel
So how do ya polish the inside of the yoke barrel? I tried slurry and liked to never got it out of the cylinder assy.
Slurry it heavy and hand-spin it while ya watch TV. Rinse it all out with
carburetor cleaner. Gunk Carb medic is good...
Luck!
Tuner
So how do ya polish the inside of the yoke barrel? I tried slurry and liked to never got it out of the cylinder assy.
Slurry it heavy and hand-spin it while ya watch TV. Rinse it all out with
carburetor cleaner. Gunk Carb medic is good...
Luck!
Tuner
Thanks Tuner. Yeah, I'd have to strip down the cylinder assy and thoroughly clean it. Now, do y'all pack with white lithium grease or Militec,etc? I packed the rebound slide,trigger and hammer with grease and really like it., but think maybe all the cylinder assy needs is some Militec.
Shoot....it spins about 10-12 revos, that oughta be good enough. I mean, it ain't exactly a Swiss watch, eh?
Shoot....it spins about 10-12 revos, that oughta be good enough. I mean, it ain't exactly a Swiss watch, eh?
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Brownells has a reamer that I believe is made by Power. Anyway, you can ream the inside of the yoke which will true the bore and take out most of the tool marks. After that polishing is easy, and may be unnecessary.
Yes, it do make a difference ....
Yes, it do make a difference ....
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