I'm looking to purchase a CZ 452 Varmint in .17hmr. I wanted to have input from owners first. Have you ever had any problems and what were they. I am particularly interested in mag feeding, bolt problems, etc. Everyone seems to love their 452, so I just want to make sure I'm not missing any drawbacks. Thanks.
CZ 452 Varmint Problems?
- Thread starter kennyboy
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kennyboy, I've only had one problem with my CZ452 Varmint (.22WMR). The magazine does not fit into the mag well tightly enough to feed correctly. Unless I'm pressing the mag in, the bolt tends to miss the cartridge rim and ding the cases. It's a matter of just a few millimeters that makes a difference. It also tends to extract but not eject the last round out of a magazine. Minus those problems, I have no complaints.
jmm
jmm
Unruely
Member
I bought mine about 2 weks ago and love it, zero complaints. It ffeds all the ammo I have tried perfectly. I added the Brooks spring kit to it and the trigger pull is right at 12oz. I am using it at rimfire matches so it works great!!
Martin
Martin
varmint exterminator
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452 CZ Varmint
I have had mine for 2 years and it is one of the best guns I have ever owned,My trigger is tuned to 4 OZ.and it will do 5 shot groups at 100 yards that will surprise the crap out of you.(on a windless day of course)They are really well made and worth every penny,Mine is in 17 HMR.
http://img380.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cz452copy1zx.jpg
I have had mine for 2 years and it is one of the best guns I have ever owned,My trigger is tuned to 4 OZ.and it will do 5 shot groups at 100 yards that will surprise the crap out of you.(on a windless day of course)They are really well made and worth every penny,Mine is in 17 HMR.
http://img380.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cz452copy1zx.jpg
Unruely, what caliber is your gun chambered in? Also, has anyone else had the magazine problems? I'm wondering if problems are only found in perhaps the .22mag model or if caliber doesn't matter and someone just gets one of the few faulty rifles.
I have an 452-e Iam in love with this gun the ladder rear sight is exc after seting the gun for 25yds the yds marks on the ramp are dead on. I like to shoot mine at 100yds it is an 22lr. Iwouldn't think of putting a scope on it. I can keep 6 shots in side of 2" all day if the wind is not blowing much.Can't go wrong with an CZ!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
P.S. No feed problems in mine.
P.S. No feed problems in mine.
Unruely
Member
That one is a 17HMR, I also have one in 22lr. I have had zero problems with them. i have both triggers down to about 12oz, at this time I am using both for match shooting only.
Martin
Martin
Have a couple, .22 lr and .17 HMR.
Out of the box, bolt movement will be a little rough. The bolt on my .17 would bind when using the bolt handle. Luckily for me, I normally use the back of the bolts' bodies to push them forward on my bolt guns (other than the ones that have a small cocked striker indicator in the middle of the rear of the bolt, for those I use the base of the bolt handle where it attaches to the bolt). Being closer to the center of the bolt, binding isn't an issue when using this method. Over time, this will smooth out. The triggers of both of my rifles do have a bit of creep to them but not in any unusual amount. This can be fixed by yourself with either some stoning tools or with a number of kits out there. The guns, IIRC, are suppose to be freefloated but both of mine are not. Not a serious problem as getting it so is a simple task to perform. Mine, however, shoot very well without being freefloated. One other issue I've seen with the .17 only is that the hollow points (TNT) nosedive a little and don't feed as the nose hits the face of the barrel just under the chamber. Pointed tip cartridges (V-Max) feed reliably. These would nosedive but the tip of the bullet reaches the chamber before doing so and the rest of the cartridge follows it in. The shorter hollow points are the problems. This, however, can be fixed as discussed on rimfirecentral.com. The fix is to increase the angle ofthe back of the follower in the mag with respect to the top. This will help prevent the rounds from nosediving into the barrel face.
To compare shooting results, it is slightly not as good as my built up 10/22M - .17 HMR. It has, however, only seen the range a couple of times as I bought it late last year. I had also purchased a Marlin 917V (.17 HMR) within a week of the CZ 452 (.17 HMR) and the CZ groups considerably better. (The 917V had been fitted with a Rifle Basix Trigger. The 452 remains stock, have not even modded the trigger in any way.)
Out of the box, bolt movement will be a little rough. The bolt on my .17 would bind when using the bolt handle. Luckily for me, I normally use the back of the bolts' bodies to push them forward on my bolt guns (other than the ones that have a small cocked striker indicator in the middle of the rear of the bolt, for those I use the base of the bolt handle where it attaches to the bolt). Being closer to the center of the bolt, binding isn't an issue when using this method. Over time, this will smooth out. The triggers of both of my rifles do have a bit of creep to them but not in any unusual amount. This can be fixed by yourself with either some stoning tools or with a number of kits out there. The guns, IIRC, are suppose to be freefloated but both of mine are not. Not a serious problem as getting it so is a simple task to perform. Mine, however, shoot very well without being freefloated. One other issue I've seen with the .17 only is that the hollow points (TNT) nosedive a little and don't feed as the nose hits the face of the barrel just under the chamber. Pointed tip cartridges (V-Max) feed reliably. These would nosedive but the tip of the bullet reaches the chamber before doing so and the rest of the cartridge follows it in. The shorter hollow points are the problems. This, however, can be fixed as discussed on rimfirecentral.com. The fix is to increase the angle ofthe back of the follower in the mag with respect to the top. This will help prevent the rounds from nosediving into the barrel face.
To compare shooting results, it is slightly not as good as my built up 10/22M - .17 HMR. It has, however, only seen the range a couple of times as I bought it late last year. I had also purchased a Marlin 917V (.17 HMR) within a week of the CZ 452 (.17 HMR) and the CZ groups considerably better. (The 917V had been fitted with a Rifle Basix Trigger. The 452 remains stock, have not even modded the trigger in any way.)
Fella's;
I'm going to suggest going to: www.rimfirecentral.com & checking out the CZ section.
There have been & are continuing problems with CZ 452 mags not being assembled properly by CZ. The fix is on rimfire central. The problems usually occur with the plastic 10 rounders, but may not be limited to them.
900F
I'm going to suggest going to: www.rimfirecentral.com & checking out the CZ section.
There have been & are continuing problems with CZ 452 mags not being assembled properly by CZ. The fix is on rimfire central. The problems usually occur with the plastic 10 rounders, but may not be limited to them.
900F
lorenbliss
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CZ452 .22WMR Won't Feed HPs Lighter Than 50 grs.
Post 12 duplicated by mistake.
Post 12 duplicated by mistake.
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lorenbliss
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CZ452 .22WMR Won't Feed HPs Lighter Than 50 grs.
Forced to curtail my .30-caliber shooting by the skyrocketing cost of components -- having failed to disarm us by legislation, our rulers are now obviously disarming us via the marketplace -- I bought a used but seemingly like-new .22WMR CZ452, thinking it would facilitate relatively cheap practice and also have some practical applications .22LR does not. But now I know why the rifle was for sale: while it is extremely accurate for a .22WMR (11/16" 50-yard groups, benchrested), it absolutely will not feed ANY hollowpoints lighter than 50 grains. While it feeds everything else smoothly and without difficulty (including 50 gr. HPs), the lighter HPs jam against the top of the chamber; if they chamber at all, it is only after the bullet has collapsed into the case. I am now on my third factory magazine and can see by comparison of the new mags to the old one where/how the previous owner modified the original magazine (bending the follower in accordance with Internet instructions) in an effort to correct the problem -- obviously to no avail. I am beginning to suspect the only solution is to get rid of the rifle; two gunsmiths tell me the only cure is rechambering if not rebarreling. However, I am surely not willing to spend several hundred dollars on custom barrel/chamber work on a mere .22 or wait 18-24 months while the rifle goes back to Europe to be rebarreled at the factory, but there seem to be no other ways to fix the problem. Any suggestions?
Forced to curtail my .30-caliber shooting by the skyrocketing cost of components -- having failed to disarm us by legislation, our rulers are now obviously disarming us via the marketplace -- I bought a used but seemingly like-new .22WMR CZ452, thinking it would facilitate relatively cheap practice and also have some practical applications .22LR does not. But now I know why the rifle was for sale: while it is extremely accurate for a .22WMR (11/16" 50-yard groups, benchrested), it absolutely will not feed ANY hollowpoints lighter than 50 grains. While it feeds everything else smoothly and without difficulty (including 50 gr. HPs), the lighter HPs jam against the top of the chamber; if they chamber at all, it is only after the bullet has collapsed into the case. I am now on my third factory magazine and can see by comparison of the new mags to the old one where/how the previous owner modified the original magazine (bending the follower in accordance with Internet instructions) in an effort to correct the problem -- obviously to no avail. I am beginning to suspect the only solution is to get rid of the rifle; two gunsmiths tell me the only cure is rechambering if not rebarreling. However, I am surely not willing to spend several hundred dollars on custom barrel/chamber work on a mere .22 or wait 18-24 months while the rifle goes back to Europe to be rebarreled at the factory, but there seem to be no other ways to fix the problem. Any suggestions?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
The CZ-USA service department is in Kansas City KS, not Europe.
All repairs are done there, and usually rather quickly.
I suggest you give them a call and discuss it with them.
In all likelihood, it is nothing more then a bad magazine or mag catch.
It is also possible you have the trigger guard assembled in the stock & action wrong.
I believe there is a place for the metal mag guide to fit into the bottom of the action like the 527, and if it is not in it, the gun will not feed right, just like yours.
rcmodel
lorenbliss
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CZ USA Service (Normally Superb, but...)
Thank you; good points. I've had various CZs for several years, all but this one bought new, and until now found their service to be absolutely the best there is -- far superior to anything I ever got from any U.S. gunmaker.
But this may be the exception: I've already spoken with the Kansas City service people about this -- two times to be exact -- and I get the feeling that because I bought it used, I'm on my own. The first time they said "replace the magazine," which I did (ordering a new factory mag from the KC facility), but that didn't work. Next I found a factory-new mag locally and bought that too: exactly the same problem. Then I left CZ a telephone message saying I had tried two new mags and still hadn't solved the problem, and they never bothered to call me back. Also:
(1)-Yes the trigger guard is properly mounted. (Don't see how it could be mounted wrong: short guard screw aft in the floating lug, long guard screw forward, wood screw snug but not seated too deeply, entire barrel/stock/action assembly dropping together with about the same easy, no-force fit as a properly bedded '03 Springfield);
(2)-When I first started trying to correct the feeding problem, I discovered the magazine-well screws were loose as the proverbial goose. They are now properly tightened with the result the new magazines will always feed if they are loaded with only three rounds of HPs, while before they would feed none. But load four or five rounds and the first two rounds invariably jam unless they are either SPs, FMJs or the 50-gr. Federal HPs.
Meanwhile, a gunsmith with whom I've done business for years says that yes, the KC facility does do minor repairs, but that as far as he knows, anything major like rechambering or rebarreling (which is what he thinks may be necessary) requires a trip back to the Czech Republic.
I will try phoning them again tomorrow -- you get a telebot that tells you to leave a message and promises they'll call back --and this time let them know I am a bit vexed the promise was unkept.
FYI, I'm no spring chicken or novice. Been shooting since the '40s, handloading since the '50s, do most of my own repairs, modifications and bedding, but this one seems to have me beat. Anyway, thanks again.
Thank you; good points. I've had various CZs for several years, all but this one bought new, and until now found their service to be absolutely the best there is -- far superior to anything I ever got from any U.S. gunmaker.
But this may be the exception: I've already spoken with the Kansas City service people about this -- two times to be exact -- and I get the feeling that because I bought it used, I'm on my own. The first time they said "replace the magazine," which I did (ordering a new factory mag from the KC facility), but that didn't work. Next I found a factory-new mag locally and bought that too: exactly the same problem. Then I left CZ a telephone message saying I had tried two new mags and still hadn't solved the problem, and they never bothered to call me back. Also:
(1)-Yes the trigger guard is properly mounted. (Don't see how it could be mounted wrong: short guard screw aft in the floating lug, long guard screw forward, wood screw snug but not seated too deeply, entire barrel/stock/action assembly dropping together with about the same easy, no-force fit as a properly bedded '03 Springfield);
(2)-When I first started trying to correct the feeding problem, I discovered the magazine-well screws were loose as the proverbial goose. They are now properly tightened with the result the new magazines will always feed if they are loaded with only three rounds of HPs, while before they would feed none. But load four or five rounds and the first two rounds invariably jam unless they are either SPs, FMJs or the 50-gr. Federal HPs.
Meanwhile, a gunsmith with whom I've done business for years says that yes, the KC facility does do minor repairs, but that as far as he knows, anything major like rechambering or rebarreling (which is what he thinks may be necessary) requires a trip back to the Czech Republic.
I will try phoning them again tomorrow -- you get a telebot that tells you to leave a message and promises they'll call back --and this time let them know I am a bit vexed the promise was unkept.
FYI, I'm no spring chicken or novice. Been shooting since the '40s, handloading since the '50s, do most of my own repairs, modifications and bedding, but this one seems to have me beat. Anyway, thanks again.
lorenbliss
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Quick clarification on nomenclature:
Just to make sure we're on the same page, I think what you're calling a magazine guide is what CZ calls a magazine housing (part #16) and what I was calling a magazine well. But it's plastic not metal -- very soft, almost rubbery plastic at that -- which (now that I think about it) could be part of the problem. Also the mags themselves fit very loosely, as if the magazine catch spring (part #20) is way too weak.
Once more I'm learning an old lesson: that since Remington and Winchester discontinued their all-steel mags a half-century ago, the only truly reliable rimfire mags made anymore are Ruger's: too bad the .22s themselves are gunsmithing projects, wretchedly overpriced for all the aftermarket work and expense necessary to achieve accuracy. Tubular rimfire magazines seem absolutely reliable too -- at least I never had a 9422, 9422M or a 39A jam -- but I was never impressed by lever-action accuracy, which is why in my old age the only rifles I own are bolt actions.
Just to make sure we're on the same page,
I think what you're calling a magazine guide is what CZ calls a magazine housing (part #16) and what I was calling a magazine well. But it's plastic not metal -- very soft, almost rubbery plastic at that -- which (now that I think about it) could be part of the problem. Also the mags themselves fit very loosely, as if the magazine catch spring (part #20) is way too weak. Once more I'm learning an old lesson: that since Remington and Winchester discontinued their all-steel mags a half-century ago, the only truly reliable rimfire mags made anymore are Ruger's: too bad the .22s themselves are gunsmithing projects, wretchedly overpriced for all the aftermarket work and expense necessary to achieve accuracy. Tubular rimfire magazines seem absolutely reliable too -- at least I never had a 9422, 9422M or a 39A jam -- but I was never impressed by lever-action accuracy, which is why in my old age the only rifles I own are bolt actions.
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