CZ-75 Trigger questions

[Headless Thompson Gunner]

Does anyone know anything about gunsmithing on the CZ75 trigger mechanisms? I have a few questions:

Is it possible to take a decocker CZ75 (like a PCR or P-01, say) and replace the decocker with a thumb safety? I'd really like to have one of the alloy framed compacts, but I don't want to give up cocked and locked carry.

Is it possible to take any of CZ's compacts and replace the trigger mechanism with one of their single action mechanisms from a full sized gun? That'd be even better still.

Is it possible to improve the SA trigger pull on the standard thumb safety DA/SA guns? Specifically, is it possible to shorten the take up, the portion of the trigger pull that operates the firing pin block?

Thanks...

 

[JonF]

I can answer #3 to some extent and the answer is yes. I have a 75 SP01 from the CZ custom shop where Angus and co. tune them to perfection. The SA is very crisp at 2-3 lbs and totally creep free. DA was nice too but i rarely use it as its a range toy (and extremely accurate at that). Being that its DA/SA, there is some pretravel until you get to the SA breakpoint but it has no measurable resistance and so is moot to discuss. Interesting note: I actually replaced the trigger itself with the 85 combat trigger as that is built for SA only mode and so it locks out the DA mode on my CZ leaving me with a SA only gun with no more pretravel and a trigger that sits dead center in the trigger guard waiting at the break point. It also has pre and post travel set screws to fine tune it even further for the most precise of actuation. This might even answer your Q #2 as well.

 

[TMann]

I'm not a CZ expert, but I have done a bit of internet research on them.

#1 - I'm pretty sure that the answer to this is 'No.' The mechanisms behind the two are very different, and it would require some serious modifications to install the safety mechanism into one of the decocker models. If you want a compact that can be carried cocked and locked, you're stuck with the 75 Compact, (steel frame.)

#3 - The safety-equipped models are relatively easy to disassemble. There is a pretty good guide to doing a homemade trigger job at this link here.

TMann

 

[rbernie]

The alloy frames are thicker than the steel frames. As a result, you cannot swap safety/decocker related bits between them without machine work.

I had a PCR that I really liked, so I called Mike Eagleshield at CZ back about 4-5 years agao and ask him this very question. His quote at the time was $300 for the conversion, due to the machine work and fitting involved.

That should, at least, address question 1 and probably 2.

 

[burningsquirrels]

Does anyone know anything about gunsmithing on the CZ75 trigger mechanisms? I have a few questions:

Is it possible to take a decocker CZ75 (like a PCR or P-01, say) and replace the decocker with a thumb safety? I'd really like to have one of the alloy framed compacts, but I don't want to give up cocked and locked carry.

No, but the new, sub $500 CZ P-07 duty will allow you to change between the two modes.

Is it possible to take any of CZ's compacts and replace the trigger mechanism with one of their single action mechanisms from a full sized gun? That'd be even better still.

To convert to SAO from a regular DA/SA, you only need to install a single action trigger from CZcustom.com and remove the disconnector. PM me if you want that help.

Is it possible to improve the SA trigger pull on the standard thumb safety DA/SA guns? Specifically, is it possible to shorten the take up, the portion of the trigger pull that operates the firing pin block?

Yes. There's plenty of trigger job threads over at the CZ forums.

Thanks...

feel free to click on my 40b site in my sig, there's some info there, as well as a breakdown of a CZ fire control group, and links to various modification threads.

 

[JonF]

To convert to SAO from a regular DA/SA, you only need to install a single action trigger from CZcustom.com and remove the disconnector. PM me if you want that help.

When i installed the SA only trigger on my DA/SA SP01, i did not do anything with the disconnector nor did CZ themselves advise me to either when i called to inquire about switching the triggers. What is the purpose of removing the disconnector? Generally the disconnector is critical in semi-autos to prevent runaway auto fire, no?

 

[burningsquirrels]

part #17 in this diagram... it is not necessary in SAO.

 

[eerw]

can't do the decocker to safety conversion. its probably possible but a lot of work would need to be done to reconfigure.

a SA trigger can be installed on the DA/SA guns. it doesn't make any sense to do this on a decocker gun though.

some work can be done to shorten pretravel and reset distances depending on the trigger you choose and other component variances.

 

[eerw]

if you convert to single action..and use a single action trigger..the disconnector (#17), sometimes called the DA connector sits too far forward of the trigger bar and isn't needed in the operation of gun. if you look at the 75SA, that part is omitted and the hammer doesn't even have the pin hole.

 

[schmeky]

Generally the disconnector is critical in semi-autos to prevent runaway auto fire, no?

No. The disconnector is the DA sear.

 

[JonF]

Got it. On the flipside though, you can leave it in with no apparent adverse effects. I left it in mine after putting on the SA only trigger and so far so good.

 

[burningsquirrels]

yup. it doesn't do anything, so i figured i might as well take it out. or, leave it in for extra weight to reduce perceived recoil by .01%

 

[bigdaddyb]

Here's a stupid noob question. It appears from the discussion above that the SA trigger is just drop in and go. Is this correct?

Can the same be said for the match hammer?

Thanks,

brianb

 

[burningsquirrels]

SA trigger - yes and no. you may need to file the sides where the trigger pin is if it rubs in the frame. on the couple i installed they both needed a little, but not much, of 400 grit followed by a polish on both sides to move freely.

comp hammer - no. you need to modify the safety leg of the sear, not hard. check the cz forums for more info.

 

[bigdaddyb]

Excellent. Thanks for the quick, informative response.

 

[Roswell_Kid]

One other quick caution -

Please note that the illustrated trigger jobs on the CZ forums and elsewhere are excellent but assume that you will retain the original hammer. They instruct removing a significant amount of stock from the trigger sear and altering its angle somewhat.

The competition hammer´s design, however, assumes that you will be using the trigger sear in its original configuration. Sooo...

If you want to install the comp hammer and do a trigger job together, it is best to limit the trigger sear work to polishing only, not grinding to change its angle or remove appreciable stock. Once it is all together and you can test the first result, you may not want to go any further. A trigger job limited to just polishing the machine marks off the contact surfaces, together with installing the comp hammer, make a huge difference.

 

[schmeky]

Roswell_Kid,

The comp hammer is designed to work with the angle of the stock sear, consequently you must leave the sear angle alone. You can polish the sear face, but it's not necessary.