Czech Mauser?

[Moparmike]

Chech Mauser?

I know, I have been bugging yall with a bunch of Mauser stuff.

Just found out its a Chech, and want to make sure its a good rifle/good deal.

$130 for:
Rifle, straight bolt (enough cosmoline to lube an M-4 Sherman, maybe a half-track too )
Bayonet w/scabbard
Ammo Pouches (2, leather)
Cleaning Kit in the ammo pouches.
Bore sighting (Iron sights, not going to be able to get a scope for some time)

Gonna see if I can talk them down from $10 a bandolier of ammo.

 

[Dave Markowitz]

It's spelled "Czech."

Is it a VZ-24? That's a fine rifle. I have one and even though it's beat up, you can tell that when it was new the craftsmanship was really good. There is one thing to keep in mind with these old Mausers if it's one where the lowest rear sight setting is 300 meters: it will very likely shoot high at 100 yards or less.

E.g., my VZ-24 shot 18" high at 50 yards. The fix for this is to get an extra height front sight blade from Brownell's. Alternately, a Mojo rear peep sight ~might~ lower the point of impact for you.

$10 for a bandoleer of 8mm, especially if it's the Turkish stuff, is WAY too high. I can pick it up at gun shows for $4.50 - $5.00 for 70 rounds in clips.

 

[Moparmike]

It's spelled "Czech."

I am at the end of my shift, leave me alone .

$10 for a bandoleer of 8mm, especially if it's the Turkish stuff, is WAY too high. I can pick it up at gun shows for $4.50 - $5.00 for 70 rounds in clips.

Tell me about it. I was seeing it for that price on the net and this guy wants double that. I did a triple take and then made sure it was turkish. The guy who priced it was nuts. He was also astonished that I could get some for him for $71/1000, or roughly $4.50 a bandolier.

It has one of those stepper sights that goes up to 20.

Thanks,

 

[Moparmike]

BTT

 

[nextjoe]

If you're paying for boresighting that rifle, your money's probably better spent flushing it directly down the toilet. At least then you'd get to watch it swirl around for a few seconds.

Seriously, though, it shouldn't NEED any boresighting, and the guys at the gunshop aren't going to do anything you can't do yourself for free. They'll look down the barrel at a target, then look over the sights. If it shoots high, it'll need a taller front sight. I'd bet it shoots pretty close to the sights as-is.

The price could be in the ballpark, but without examining the specific gun, I couldn't make a judgement. I'd go as high as $150 for an early VZ made in the thirties if it hasn't been ruined by the re-arsenal process (buffed to death). Quality went down over the course of the war, and the price I'd be willing to pay would drop accordingly. Did you see a date stamp anywhere? What markings are on the receiver? Look at the edges of the bolt where the extractor collar fits around it. If those edges are rounded, it's been buffed and, to me, ruined.

It could be a really nice rifle or a real clunker. There are plenty of 'em on the market right now to choose from.

Best,
Joe

 

[jdege]

Do you have any idea on what the serial numbers were, when the VZ24's began to decline?

I've inherited one that looks unmodified, matching serial numbers, mint bore, etc., and I've always wondered when it was made.

 

[nextjoe]

Sorry, I don't have any info like that, and I don't even know anywhere to look it up

I usually just go by date. If it's 1943 or later, I pass. You can also figure out the approximate date based on which markings the gun has, but that info has seemingly vanished into the black hole that is my bookshelf :banghead:

I'm sure some of the C&R sites would have info on the markings.

Best,
Joe

 

[jdege]

My guess, from comparing it to websites, is 1933.

Matching serial numbers, no import stamps.

 

[Cosmoline]

I love the old VZ-24's. They are extremely tough, simple rifles. With their military stocks on they are basically impossible to destroy, and are fearsome weapons even with no ammo.

A few tips before buying:

Check the crown. It should have lands all the way out to the end. The counterbored ones and the WWII stovepipes will often have a big smooth space before the lands start.

Check the lockup on the bolt. Close it while pulling backwards with some force. If you feel it drop into a little groove as it closes, the bolt's lugs may have started to wear an indentatoin into the receiver. I haven't seen this too often, but it can lead to too much headspace.

Remove the bolt and unscrew the back end, exposing the spring. Check for rust.

Check for matching SN's, obviously.

Check the last few inches of bore near the crown for little dark specs. These may turn out to be holes that are partially hidden under tons of copper fouling.

 

[BenW]

Regarding counterboring, I wouldn't necessarily forget about buying a counterbored VZ24. In both my experience and in reading posts on the milsurp boards, it's really really REALLY hard to get a VZ24 with a nice, shiny bore. Most have seen a lot of use and many have been counterbored to correct problems at the crown. I have a counterbored VZ and a non-counterbored VZ and the counterbored one shoots the tighter groups of the two.

 

[jdege]

The bore on my VZ24 looks brand-spanking new.

How do you get one like that? It's easy. You have one of your older relations bring it back from WWII, and stick it in your grandmother's closet for fifty years.

 

[BenW]

Of course now that I made the comment about VZ-24s and their bores, I found out AIM Surplus just got Russian reconditioned VZ-24s for $160. I've never seen reconditioned VZ-24s on the market before. I ordered one today. I'll let you all know how it looks when it shows up at the house.

 

[Moparmike]

Just bought it!

I will get some pics up here in a week or so. Its got a real pretty stock, looks like its been polyurethaned or something. Unfortuanately, its got a crapload of cosmo.

 

[Zundfolge]

Gonna see if I can talk them down from $10 a bandolier of ammo.

I'd stay away from the surplus ammo anyway (unless you know for sure its non-corrosive)

While it's cheap, if you don't clean the rifle with soap and water before doing your regular cleaning and get it EXTRA CLEAN you will see the rust form right before your eyes. And you have to clean it RIGHT AWAY ... heck, I've even read accounts from guys in the south where its real humid where the gun started rusting before they where done shooting for the day.

Many a nice old Mauser has been ruined by corrosive mil-surp ammo.

 

[Moparmike]

Yup, I plan to run some ammonia windex down the pipe DIRECTLY after I shoot it. All planed for.

Would the oil tin it came with be a good idea for that, or not?

 

[Al Thompson]

I just keep a squeeze bottle of windex in the shooting box. When through shooting, squirt copious amountts down the bore. The water is what dissolves the salts.

If you can find a tank (think gutttering or PVC pipe), kerosene works well to remove cosmoline on the metal parts via soaking. Stocks do well with a strong degreaser and a trip to the shower.

 

[Moparmike]

Anything I should do after I de-cosmo the metal? Like oil? Or will it be fine? I assume it will be fine, but as we all know assumption is the mother of all Charlie-Foxtrots or FUBAR-ing.

 

[Al Thompson]

With kerosene, your probably OK with simply wiping the exterior and lubing the interior as appropriate. I like a coat of aautomobile wax on the metal that will be hiddden by the wood and it's not a bad thing for the exterior.

CLP or Tetra gets my nod for lubing the bolt.

 

[Moparmike]

So Hoppe's #9 oil will be insufficient for the bolt internals and groove (where the bolt goes into the breech)?

Thank you for curing Mauser ignorance locally,

 

[AV1611]

Remember: After stripping cosmo off of the metal parts they will be totally oil free. You will see rust form faster than you ever believed possible... especially if it's hot and humid. As soon as you get the cosmo off you'll need to check all over for developing surface rust. If any has formed, take it off with very fine steel wool, then start rubbing a good preservative oil into the metal. Make sure you get all the nooks and crannies with oil.

AV1611 out...