Damage to crane?

[119er]

How do you make shooting a squib load worse? Damage you gun trying to remove the lodged bullet. In hindsight this is really dumb as it falls in line with the reason why we crimp revolver bullets tightly.

I have a 686 that I was using an aluminum shotgun cleaning rod wrapped in masking tape to tap out the bullet. It was really stuck in there and it took quite a few raps on the rod to dislodge it. To do so I removed the grips and supported the frame on a padded bench and began tapping with the cylinder open. Once the bullet was removed I noticed the cylinder wouldn't close and the crane/cylinder slid out of the frame as if I had removed the retention screw. I then removed said screw and did not see any damage to it and also noticed it is spring loaded. The area on the crane that had to slid past it is nicked.

Does this warrant repair? I would say so but what are my options? Could I TIG a spot on it and reshape the area?

Not a good day at all.

 

[MrBorland]

Certainly does warrant repair. As you discovered, the cylinder assembly will now fall easily out of the gun when opened. To be fixed correctly, you'll likely have to send the gun back to S&W to have the crane replaced.

You might...I repeat...might...be able to get by by replacing the spring in the screw with a properly fitted solid pin (and some smoothing of that crane galling). It'll take patience and careful fitting, but get the pin length right, and the crane will open & close normally, but the plunger won't be able to retract, so the crane can't slip by.

 

[119er]

I can only imagine what the wait is at Smith and Wesson. Such an idiotic mistake. I bet that if I had just placed my hand on the cylinder it would have prevented this.

 

[MrBorland]

That v-notch/spring-loaded screw design is the Achilles heel of newer S&Ws, IMO. It would've been best to remove the screw & cylinder assembly entirely before removing the squib, but I know it doesn't seem like an obvious step to take at the time. This newer design is unforgiving, and I know a few really good wheelgunners who've fallen victim, so it doesn't take an idiot to get bit.

At any rate, I think it's likely it'll need to go to S&W, but before sending it off, maybe ask a good local gunsmith their opinion. In the Houston area, Teddy Jacobson has a very good reputation, but I'm sure there are others.

 

[Remllez]

119, your extractor rod hasn't come loose along with everything else that's unfortunately
happened to your gun? This condition will stop the cylinder from closing.

 

[Jim K]

Am I wrong or is that crane bent to heck and back? It sure looks it. If so, I wouldn't mess around trying to fix that nick, I would send the gun back to S&W and pay them whatever they want to fix the problem. (Their wait right now isn't too long, I have been told.)

The new retention system may be an "achilles heel" but if that was done with the old solid screw, I think the result might have been worse, possibly a bent or ruined frame.

Jim

 

[rcmodel]

IMO: If you gotta pound a bullet back down the barrel?

Either remove the cylinder & yoke first.

Or do it with the cylinder closed and pound it back in the chamber & case it came out of far enough to open the cylinder and eject it in the case.

rc

 

[Master Blaster]

When you remove a squibb never ever POUND. YOU lightly tap tap tap tap tap, be patient it will come out Pound hard and you will damage something. I have had to remove a squibb when the bullet prevented the cylinder from being removed, or opened with no damage. Many light taps will do it.

 

[Jim K]

And please do not use a wood dowel that will splinter and add pieces of wood to the obstruction.

Jim

 

[1911Tuner]

A few years back, a nice young fella joined me for a visit to PHA, and brought his Smith 686 along for the session.

A good time was had by all, until...

He had a squib that got caught with a little of the 170-grain jacketed bullet base still in the cylinder throat, locking the gun up solid. He finished out the day with another revolver, and we came back to the old homestead for turbocoffee and the required tellin' of tall tales.

Before the post-shoot festivities, I poured about a quarter teaspoonful of FP-10 in the barrel and stood the gun up to let it trickle down. 30 minutes later, I used a brass rod and a hammer to tap the bullet back into the chamber. The hammer wasn't really needed. I probably could've pushed it by hand. When I opened the cylinder, the bullet was seated in the case nearly to the cannelure.

 

[119er]

The crane isn't bent it probably looks like that b/c I was using Macro. I'm no pro I just play until I get a good pic! I have reassembled the revolver and I can't feel a difference in movement nor can I make the crane slip out again. I tried to push it out with moderate force throughout its arc of travel. Did I get lucky?