Dan Wesson .357 Problem

[birddog]

I'm not sure if I should be posting in the reloading forum or not, but here goes. I have an 8" Dan Wesson revolver in .357 that I love. Shoots great, looks great. My problem is that despite the fact that "new" rounds slide into the cylinder nice & easy, once the same rounds are shot, ejection more often than not is a battle. And it's worse with my lighter handloads than it is with the heavier factory stuff so I doubt it's a pressure problem. My loads are 7.0 or 7.3 grains of Unique pushing a 158 SJSP (Magtech). I have used these loads in my Python and my Taurus 651 for years and have none of these problems. The same rounds slide right out without even hitting the ejector rod. With the Dan Wesson, I am often tempted to bring a hammer to the range to whack the rod. (Haven't had to do that yet, but close).

Any ideas? Are Dan Wesson cylinders known for their tight tolerances?

Thanks,
Joel

 

[afasano]

Check the spacing,it should be .006, if it's too tight stuff can build up and the cylander will blow open when you shoot it someday. Did you just have a hard time getting the spent shells out one day?

 

[Standing Wolf]

If 'twere my gun, I'd check the cylinder chambers for cleanliness and make sure they're bone-dry before heading to the range. Oil tends to attract and hold crud, which can function as a sort of glue.

If that's not the problem, I'd measure the chambers and compare the numbers of other .357 magnum chamber dimensions. Polishing the chambers might help.

 

[Haycreek]

My Dan Wesson model 15 .357 mag has "Looser" chambers than my S&W model 27-2. You might check for Crud in the chambers, perhaps lightly polish them and check with a bright light. Just not normal. My DW has handled all level of loads, some, very hot. Cases have always ejected easily.

 

[birddog]

Check the spacing,it should be .006, if it's too tight stuff can build up and the cylander will blow open when you shoot it someday. Did you just have a hard time getting the spent shells out one day?

No, it's happened many times. I've gapped the barrel with the factory gapper several times. I think I have it about right, but still...It's tough to get those handloads out.

If 'twere my gun, I'd check the cylinder chambers for cleanliness and make sure they're bone-dry before heading to the range. Oil tends to attract and hold crud, which can function as a sort of glue.

If that's not the problem, I'd measure the chambers and compare the numbers of other .357 magnum chamber dimensions. Polishing the chambers might help.

I've done all of the above, except for polishing them. I've brass brushed them (carefully) and cleaned and dried. No change.

Thanks for the input, guys.

 

[afasano]

Just keep the chambers clean, I have a line in my chambers where the case ends and the bullet begins.

 

[GrantCunningham]

This is not an uncommon occurrence with DWs, particularly the late Monson and most Palmer guns.

If you'll look at the chambers after cleaning, I suspect you'll find that they are full of toolmarks. When the brass expands under pressure, it is forced into the walls of the chamber. The gouges/grooves left by the tooling perform the same function as checkering on grips, "gripping" the brass and making it difficult to extract.

The cure is to hone the chambers so that they are smoother; in extreme cases, it can be easier to simply replace the whole cylinder.

 

[birddog]

Grant,

Thanks for the post. The cylinder is indeed full of tool marks. I'm not sure I trust myself to Dremel them out. But if the problem continues, I might give it a shot, so to speak.

In the meantime, I've opened the barrel/cylinder gap up just a hair to see if there's any improvement.

Joel

 

[unspellable]

ejection

You might try changing brass. This can be a brass problem. I have a bunch of PMC 445 brass that cannot be ejected no matter how light the load, but I have no probem with Starline brass. The DW factory told me they had exactly the same experience with the PMC brass and steered me to the Starline brass.

 

[molonlabe]

I would run that by the people at CZ. My DW (early 85) .44 mag has circular tool marks in the chamber. I worked a HOT load up for silhouette that I would not fire in any other firearm but the DW. They extract very easily. I will check my .357 tonight.

 

[Moonclips]

I have the same problem with my 715 made in Norwich, NY. They stick the most with the S&B ammo. I'll try some Double Taps to see if they do the same.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Grant,

Thanks for the post. The cylinder is indeed full of tool marks. I'm not sure I trust myself to Dremel them out. But if the problem continues, I might give it a shot, so to speak.

In the meantime, I've opened the barrel/cylinder gap up just a hair to see if there's any improvement.

Joel

No Dremel! No Dremel! No Dremel! No Dremel!

Use a bit of polishing compound on a tight patch.

 

[GrantCunningham]

WHAT VERN SAID!!!!!

(Then again, I get a lot of business because of Dremel...!)

 

[georgeduz]

polish it with the compound,if that does work than get a new cylinder,u can use the dremmel with a polish wheel.

 

[birddog]

Okay, no Dremel, no Dremel, no Dremel. Got it.

What polishing compound to use?

 

[Dain Bramage]

By "no Dremel", he means no grinding stone or sandpaper wheel.

You can use a polishing wheel with a Dremel tool. The red rouge compound that comes in some Dremel kits is fine.