Dan Wesson problem

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wintermute76

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Shot a competition this past weekend and my Dan Wesson 715 started acting up. About half way thru the DA pull, the trigger would stop dead, cylinder would be about half indexed to the next chamber :cuss: Occasionally, if I "feather" the trigger a bit, it will resume where it got stuck and complete the cycle.

I picked it up used at Gander Mountain, and got a little price break with their extended warranty :rolleyes: ,(which under any other circumstace I wouldn't get) so I think it's covered, just curious as to what the problem could be so they don't try and BS me. I'm not very familiar with revo actions, autos no prob, but not revos.

Any help would be appreciated. :)
 
I can think of a couple of potential problems. The cylinder gap might be set too tight. The chambers might be dirty and not letting the rounds drop all the way into the chambers. The cylinder shaft might be burred or worn.

Try scrubbing the cylinders first. Then, if you still have problems, take it to a good 'smith to have the other things checked.

Pops
 
Thanks for the tips :)

I checked the gap (good at .005)
Rounds are all sitting flush.

not sure on the cylinder shaft, seems to spin freely, I'll be bringing it to GM and see what they say this weekend

I just looked at it again, it seems that the cylinder binds on the back of the barrel, when it does it. Seems tipped slightly, can see a gap at the bottom of the barrel but not at the top....??
 
I just bought a Dan Wesson that sounds like it has the same problem yours does. I'm by no means an expert, but I was told it was a timing issue and that some internal parts need to be replaced by Dan Wesson's service department. I believe the hand and the "gear" on the cylinder. Sorry for the non-technical terms. Probably a good idea getting the ext. warranty.
 
Try screwing the Cylinder axle back in.
It doesnt look like a screw, but it is. Hold the cylinder, and turn the axle clockwise until you can't turn it anymore. Just like turning in a screw.

If the axle is a bit loose, the cylinder locks.
 
DW problem

Try turning the barrel out a few turns, just to be sure it's not dragging on the cylinder. Also, when measuring the cylinder gap, you take the measurement at the chamber with the tightest gap.
 
unspellable said:
Try turning the barrel out a few turns, just to be sure it's not dragging on the cylinder. Also, when measuring the cylinder gap, you take the measurement at the chamber with the tightest gap.
The 715 is fixed barrel! Don't try to unscrew that barrel.
 
The ejector rod (axle screw also?) is screwed in all the way.

It has the barrrel nut, as far as I know, 7 is stainless and 15 is adjustable sights?

All chambers seems to gap the same near as I can tell.
 
problems

I thought the 715 had an interchangable barrel.

Ideally, the cylinder gap should be the same on all six chambers, so no problem there.
 
Since you have checked almost everything else out, take off the sideplate and be sure the spring that tensions the hand and connector (transfer bar safety) isn't broken or out of place. If it is it will allow the connector to float and it can sometimes hang up the hammer.
 
Hang on a minute...revolvers never jam....six for sure.....autos are jammomatics....should have bought a ruger....



evil:

Could it be ammo?
 
Fuff, I'll tear into it if GM can't do anything about it. Not sure if I want to open it up and really muck up the works ( not that it'd be the first time :uhoh: Like my first 1911 detail strip :eek: )

alduro, don't think it's the ammo, I checked and didn't see any bullets or cartridge bases hanging up, does it during dry fire too.

ya know, I"ve been meaning to pick up a GP100 or SP101 to go with my Super Redhawk, but somehow I've collected 3 Dan Wessons :D

Thanks for all the help guys, we'll get to the bottom of this yet :cool:
 
Cock the (unloaded) revolver and point the muzzle down. The connector (transfer bar safety) should be back far enough so that it doesn't get blocked by the firing pin. It also shouldn't flop around if you shake the gun. You may be able to determine if the spring's gone bad without having to remove the sideplate, but if the spring is broken you'll have to get inside to fix it.
 
Tried cocking it barrrel down, transfer bar stays back and springs back up if I push on it, so that probably isn't the problem I'm thinking.
 
Make sure it is clean. Pay particular attention to cleaning under the ejector star. A little dirt or powder residue under the star can cause a lot of grief.
 
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