De-burring flash hole on .223.

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HDMontana

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I de-burr all my precision/hunting rifle brass. I was wondering if there is any benefit to de-burring the inside of flash holes in .223/5.56 brass that is used for plinking through an AR 15.
 
I debur my "precision" .223 whether it's bolt guns or ARs, but when you add the word "plink", IMHO it's not worth the effort. I don't bother with my 3gun AR15 brass either, and that has to preform out to 300 yds on steel.

You'd probably be better off spending that time in segregating your brass by make.
 
Not to be even attempted without one of the motorized case prep centers. So if you have a "spare" $140 with which to simulate the economy....

:D
LoL. I use a DeWalt drill and remove the handle from my Lyman tool.
Stimulating the economy is a good idea though.
 
Probably can't tell a difference BUT in once fired brass I've purchased I do occasionally find one that there is a big burr that won't even let the deburr tool enter the flash hole. Even though the round definitely fired the first time I wonder if I makes a difference in velocity or accuracy. I've plenty of time and run the deburr tool into every flash hole even though most do not cut any material from burrs. I think this makes sure no polishing media, dirt and debris blocks the flash hole even though I make it a practice to look for light shining through the hole before priming the case.
 
For pinking I probably wouldn't bother. However, I did notice that the flash holes on some new magtech brass for 30 carbine were crap (they were punched but still had some material left attached) so I decided to uniform them. Doubt it would have made any difference if I didn't but this was the first time I had ever seen it so figured it would do no harm to remove it. Be careful that you don't trim too much!
 
You won't see much if any improvement deburring a flash hole for your intended purpose and firearm. My AR plinking ammo is loaded from mis-matched head stamps of the lesser known brands and I don't even care if I can find the cases after they are fired.

My hunting, competition and defense ammo gets the full treatment.
 
My grandson shoots most of the 223 ammo I load. I have buckets full of the stuff (range brass) all cleaned up.
When it gets loaded I take a red permanent marker and color the end of the case for easy identification when we pick all off the brass up.
When we seperate the cases our brass and along with the range brass we picked up. The cases marked red go in a seperate container andvthe rest go to be cleaned, resized, trimmed a d pockets swagged then into the five gallon bucket of load ready cases.

I put all 223/5.56 cases I pick up through the dillion swagger that way nothing gets missed.
And that is why I spend the time marking my cases. I have some 223 - 5.56 brass that is up to ten times being reloaded and still going strong.
Most shot through his AR15 some through the Ruger 77 some through the Remington 700 and some through the T/C Contender pistol.

As far as chamfering the flash hole inbthe bottom of the primer pocket, I see not benifit from doing that.
 
Plinking brass, I probably would not bother but de-burring the flash hole is a one time thing during the life of the case.

Generally, I start with new cases for precision work and as they go through a few cycles, they get transferred to plinking loads. So, my plinking loads generally have de-burred flash holes.
 
The case prep centers typically have a stop on the mandrel so that the cutter doesn't go too deep. That's the big difference.
My Lyman tool has an adjustable stop. I trim too length, deburr the neck, then deburr the flash hole.
I set the depth to just barely get rid of the burr.
 
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