Decent Price for 2.5" Model 66?

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Kind of Blued

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I've REALLY been wanting a 2.5" Model 66 and saw a couple at my LGS the other day. They have one with rubber grips for $475, and one with original grips, a trigger shoe-deal, and a Tyler T-grip for $600.

I'm guessing that they're charging extra for the original grips, and couldn't care less. I plan on carrying it and would prefer rubber grips anyway.

I've been watching GunBroker for a couple weeks, but haven't seen enough 2.5" M66s to judge the price myself. There seem to be plenty of 4" versions, but the 2.5" variations seem to command a slightly higher price.

I wasn't astute enough to know the variation of each gun; didn't check for P&R barrels or MIM parts. I'd know what they'd look like, but don't recall right now. I'm sure that factors in, but not sure how much price-wise. Maybe you can let me know.

What do you think? Is $475 a decent price for a Model 66 missing original grips, box, etc?

Also, will these have full-length ejector rods or will they be too short to easily eject .357 brass? (I'm only really familiar with 2" J-frames and single-actions)
 
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I believe the 3" model has a full length ejector, but no the 2.5". $475 sounds like an OK price, but maybe a little on the high side for the condition you describe. It's a good price for gunbroker, but I've seen them go for less in that condition on the forums. My suggesstion is to keep an eye on the classifieds at smith-wessonforum.com and here. One will turn up eventually. I picked up a 66-2 with a 4" barrel a few months ago for $350. I know the 2.5" is more in demand, but still.
 
I purchased a slightly used S&W model 66-4 for only $225, a couple
of year's back. It came with the rubber grips; but I found an original
set of walnut grips, and have hence replaced the factory rubber set.

We don't see many 2.5" S&W 66's in my area; and likewise the 6"
version~! :eek: ;)
 
The 2.5 inch brings a premium price, $475 sounds like a fair price to me. I have seen the 4 and 6 inch guns go from 300-350 to almost 500 dollars in the past four or five years.
Pre lock guns are getting hard to find in very good condition and command a premium price. I paid $500 for a 66-2, 6 inch in 98% condition, complete package , three months ago.
 
Reasonable price

I have two S&W 66 snubbies - a 66-3 with 2.5 inch barrel that I bought 4 years ago in good condition for $300, and a 66-4 with 3 inch barrel that I bought a year ago in excellent condition for $500. I'd say the $475 price you mention is reasonable if the gun is prelock and in excellent condition. Here are the two I have:

SW66-462.jpg

SW66-361.jpg
 
We don't see many 2.5" S&W 66's in my area; and likewise the 6"
version~!
Dang, does that mean I should not have sold off my 6" 66 cheap like I did? :scrutiny:
 
I have two 66 no dash versions, the one with hammer was $500. early last year, the hammerless is a modified pistol that I've had a long time. I've just fitted a fixed SDI sight on it and put smooth non fingergrip Ahrends on. It's chamfered, and I'm considering adding a power custom crane lock. It's one of the guns I play around with, trying different configurations to see how it goes. It was kinda' in process when I took this photo and I've had to set it aside for a while. As I remember I gave $150. for it so that should give an idea of how long ago I bought it.

Pogo, if I had that pinned front sight there's be a gold dot sitting on top.


66.gif

66_hammerless.gif
 
Price: $475 is probably a fair price in today's market for a 2.5". Maybe even a "good deal." $600 for one, without the original box, is probably too much. I have a 2.5" 686-4 I was going to sell, even with the original box I was going to ask $550 and I'm pretty good at keeping up on prices. A 66 w/o the box is not worth $600 unless someone has to have it that moment and doesn't want to comparison shop (which is what many gun show prices today reflect).

Ejector rod - yep, the 2.5" has a shorter ejector rod than the 3" and longer barreled ones do, but it is no big deal. Most grips, like the one KRS and Pogo2's guns are wearing, are raduised on the sideplate to help with feeding and ejection. I have no problems with my S&W snubbies with shorter rods and ejection, K, L or N frame. You get in the habit of making a short hard strike on the rod end, and a little wiggle at the same time, and all cases fall free. Charge a new speedloader in and you are back in battery in about the same time as an auto.

"P&R" and all that: The P&R guns are are the 66-1 models and earlier. The pre-lock ones are 66-4 and earlier. Don't sweat the P&R - it's a nice feature but not functionally important - barrels have been "crush fit" since the late 40s/early 50s in practice and the pin was redundant. The recessed cylinders are a nice touch, but again not necessary. The -2, -3, and -4 models were also assembled on new CNC machinery and their fit and finish often exceed that of the "P&R" models. How well a gun passes the "revolver check out" at the top of this forum is much more important than any slight engineering change and dash number.

Practical notes: These are nearly ideal carry guns. They are compact, powerful, and well made. They are easy to carry openly or concealed. Nearly as easy to shoot as their 4" counterparts, they are in some people's mind the answer to the question, "If I could only own one handgun for everything, what would it be..." You can also look for the 2.5" model 19. It is the same gun in blue. I keep one of each around - one for the woods, one for when we get dressed up and go to the theater. I call the 19 my "opera" gun.

1) 2.5" 66-1
IMGP2547.jpg

2) 2.5" 19-5 (same variant as 66-3)
IMGP3117.jpg
 
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Thanks guys. I was under the impression that the 3" M66 was very rare and priced accordingly. To be honest, I think I'd rather have a 3" than a 2.5", especially if the 2.5" commands a collector's premium. Having a full-length ejector is important to me, as this would be my primary when I do carry it, and I need all the help I can get should I have to reload a revolver in a hurry.
 
Comment on 3 inch barrel

The 3 inch model 66 is fairly scarce, and dealers often want to charge about $800 for one, compared to $500 or so for the 2.5 inch version. I was just lucky to find one for $500 a year ago, buying directly from the original owner who was not a revolver collector.

The differences between the two barrel lengths are minor, however. The extra ballistic effect from 1/2 inch of barrel is very small, and ejecting spent casings from the shorter barrel gun is not usually a problem, as they generally pop right out if you give a sharp rap on the ejector rod and hold the gun muzzle up so gravity helps you. I have only rarely had to pick out a sticky casing with my fingers.

The revolver company that sells lots of 3 inch barrels is Ruger, as this is a standard barrel length offering in their SP101 revolver, which is similar to the model 66. For some reason S&W didn't make as many 3 inchers as 2.5 inchers, and now the 66 and 19 are out of production. S&W still does offer 3 inch barrels on a number of their new J frame revolvers in .357 magnum, however, such as this model 60 shown on their website:

162430_large.jpg
 
Good point on the Model 60, Pogo.

Thanks for clearing up the 2.5"/3" issue, Cocked & Locked. The 3" might make more sense to help with ejection, but the 2.5" being cheaper, and IMO, looking "just right", I'm sure I'll get one at some point, if nothing else, for pride of ownership. :)
 
$475 is a very fair price these days for a superb revolver. The 66-2 2.5" is my EDC snubby.

The 66-5 was the last 66 without the lock or other "innovations".

IMHO, the 66-3 and 66-4 are the most desireable for carry/competition.
 
Just one old guy's opinion, but I feel the 2.5" 66 is the king of all concealed carry revolvers.

And without the slightest hesitation, I forked over 475 bucks for my last 2.5" 66, a pristine -4 with no box, but very tight lock-up for a K-frame and evidence of a decent trigger job with a sweeeet, not-quite-too-light SA pull and a buttery DA pull (even though it came with only the old Butler Creek or Uncle Mike's Goodyears).

It's guys like me that are driving up the prices of used K-frames ... I can't resist ...
 
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