Deer hunting greenhorn...advice/tips, please.

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I've been wanting to start deer hunting for probably about 5 years now. Of course I have not gotten my Hunter's Ed card and have not started deer hunting like I said I would. This year...It will happen. I've never even been deer hunting before and I somehow have the fever. I watch the shows and it pumps me up like nothing else, except maybe a Razorback football game. I see people hunting and I'm so envious. I've been apathetic in my deer hunting plans and have sat aside too long now. I will hunt seriously this year like I've always planned to. I have the perfect setup too. My mother lives on a nice little plot of land up in the hills of Northwest Arkansas that is nothing but woods. Its maybe 5 or 6 acres. All around her land is just forest that is hunted by basically anyone that pleases. Well....nobody hunts my mother's land, so deer in the area know it's a safe haven. She sees so many whitetails on her property it's crazy. This will be MY hunting grounds and no one else's. My point is, I wasn't raised up hunting. This is something I want to start on my own and pass down to my kids when I have them. I know the basics of hunting. I'm not completely clueless on it. I just wanted to know some things like, would I be better off in a blind or stand in the thick woods? Would I be better off with my .243 or 30-30? What to bait the plot with? When should I set out everyday? You know, tricks of the trade. Anyway...If you have some in and outs you think a deer hunting greenhorn should know, please inquire.
 
I just wanted to know some things like, would I be better off in a blind or stand in the thick woods? Would I be better off with my .243 or 30-30? What to bait the plot with? When should I set out everyday?

Well, the first thing you will need is a Ghillie suit...

Ok.. kidding! Stand location depends on your terrain. Pay attention to where the deer trails exist and where trails converge. This will give you a good idea of their travel patterns. Deer will travel fencelines and the edges of fields. Plan accordingly.

Either of your rifles will work just fine. You are set there. Do you have a plot to plant? I plant my plots with oats. Deer will walk across corn to get oats, I've seen it many times. They love them. I don't know about your area, however... you may want to go to a local feed store and get some direction on the best thing to plant. They will know. If you don't have a plot to plant, put out a feeder with some corn. Or maybe, do both.

Deer are almost always active around sun up and sun down. Plan to be on your stand at least an hour prior to either.

As far as advice goes, I'd just say this... Deer live through their noses. They also have very good eyesight and hearing. But if they smell you they will run. Pay attention to the wind direction and try to be downwind at all times.

Check your local laws and regulations concerning baiting of game animals before you take any of my advice. :)

Good luck...
 
in thick woods you are probably better off in a stand. clear out some undergrowth and some shooting lanes. dont put a stand on the food plot but rather 30 or so yards into the woods adjacent to it. find their staging area. a blind just off the food plot works also.

check laws for baiting. if its legal then corn or any of the commercial things work. if you are talking about planting something then there are tons of options including soy, alfalfa, winter wheat, peas, beans, and on and on.

for a long shot over a field (over 200 yds) then id go with the .243. for shorter shots or woods shots i would go with the .30-30.

i also think that your movements will spook deer more than your smelling. i personally think the whole scent cover in 4938 stages is overrated. but thats just me!

stay in the stand when everyone else goes in. shoot straight!

good luck!
 
The advice I wish I would have been given before I shot my first deer I will give to you.
If you shoot it deep in the very thick woods in the late afternoon, you have to get it out of the very thick woods.

jim
 
The best advice I can give is to get into the woods as early as possible and hold out as long as possible before coming out. You can't kill a deer if you're not hunting.

Keep clean, watch the wind. Don't spend a lot of money on camo or buy into the "scent-lok" crap. You will be much better served staying still and paying attention to the wind.

Wear good boots and warm clothes.

Be quiet.

Know your rifle/bow.

Once you get the hang of it, take a kid hunting.
 
If you have a good food plot, why bait? Either choice rifle is good, but find a few trails that lead to the plot and set up just off of them yet close enough to see the plot. Patience. Don't push rush a shot. The less movement the better off you are. Something that also seems to work for me, never look directly at the deer but watch him/her with your periferal vision until you are ready to make the shot. I think deer can sense your eyes on them. I've made lots of shots inside 30 feet over the years wearing blaze orange. Don't use scented soaps, shampoos.
 
Other tips

Don't look for the whole deer when sitting. Look for an ear to twitch, tail to flicker, head to bob, leg movement, or horns glissening in bright early morning sunlight. Don't try to shoot at the whole deer. Pick a spot just behind the shoulder, and shoot there. If you do shoot and the deer runs off, mark the place where the deer was when you shot, and the spot where you last saw them. Even if you think you missed go and look for blood, or hair. You might end up being surprised. Don't get discouraged. IF you do hit it, don't follow it right away, let it go bed up, get some help to trail it, then come back and get on the trail.

Identify your target, be safe, be considerate, and obey the laws of your particular state. Most of all, HAVE FUN! Don't believe any of the lies you'll hear around the campfire, but don't contradict them either. One day, you be telling them yourself.
 
This is one post I'll leave to the 'rest' of the guys as it is as wide and deep as the Nile river.

Waaaay too many varibles, coulda, woulda, shoulda and if's...

As for those hunting shows...keep in mind they are done for ratings and to sell product...most of those hunting shows are about as real as Saturday mourning cartoons.lol

Unless your hunting in a high fence....let us know when your in the stand...we'll let it out of its cage...hunting preserve....hehehe

Have fun...and be safe! Post a pic. of that 12 point you blast this year...with all the details!
 
Most of the deer I have taken in Washington and Oregon were Blacktails in heavy brush. The technique of 'Still Hunting' (Google it) works well in those conditions. Around here we 'Spot and Stalk' which is exactly as it sounds although it seldom works that way. Generally speaking, only bowhunters use a treestand here, and feeding/baiting is only allowed if you are legally blind or in a wheelchair. So Check Your Regs.
 
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Most important thing is scouting the area on multiple occasions to look for sign:

-deer sightings
-tracks
-trails
-(later on) rubs & scrapes
-bedding circles

and other important things: water, feeding areas, likely bedding areas.

So you'll know where to hunt. Put up one or more blinds, or build your own out of deadfall, at least a week before you plan to hunt (preferably 2 or more weeks), to give them time to get used to it.

Use the wind, use the wind, use the wind. Always keep the wind in your favor, or you won't see many deer. Controlling your scent helps too.

Read the regs. Know your season dates, and which days you can shoot does, which days you can shoot bucks, and which days you can shoot both.

Get up really early and be as quiet as possible. Try to pick a spot on a trail between a general feeding area, and general bedding area.

Know where your shot placement should be. Make a good clean steady shot. Do NOT ever follow the deer. If it's a good hit in 2 lungs, then wait at least 15-20 minutes; if you think maybe only 1 lung, then wait 1 hour or more. If you gut shoot it, back out and wait 4 hours or more. If it goes down, but it's still moving, shoot it again.

When hunting, you have to be as still as possible and quiet as possible. Look. Listen. If you see movement, keep watching. If you move, move very slowly.

Treestands are another can of worms. If you do use one, you're better off as a noob with a ladder stand, particularly a 2-man buddy stand - not a strap on or climber. There's a lot of danger inherent in hanging and using stands. Always use a harness when hanging them or using one if you're more than about 6-8 feet off the ground. Blinds are a lot easier and safer. Or just hunting from the ground - you don't really need a blind if you get in some shadows. The most often scenario with me when I take deer is sitting on a chair that I carry with me and set down in the woods - no blind, just a chair - one of those standard folding camp chairs in a tan or green or brown color.

Oh yeah: ALWAYS unload your gun (at least unload the chamber) when doing any of these actions: Lifting it up to yourself in your stand with a rope or letting it down from your stand, climbing over/under/through a fence, and traversing up or down a steep hill. Don't shoot if there's no backstop (a hill) unless you know for sure that "there ain't no people over that way".
 
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Look for "funnels"-places where the woods narrows down. Like when a field is at the bottom of the woods and a road at the top.Pick a spot where you can see well,back up against a tree wider than you and HOLD STILL. Try to look around without moving your head. Blaze orange doesn't seem to bother deer till it moves. Deer like to follow benches and use points to exit from one cover area to another. My all time favorite stand was on a point where a pasture came up from the bottom and the strip mine came in from the top. The woods was only about 50 yards wide there and any deer I could see was in deep doo-doo. At typical woods ranges(out to 150 yds or so) a 30-30 will serve you well. Around these parts we are restricted to archery,shotgun slugs,and muzzleloaders. My closest shot ever was bayonet range-the longest around 100 yards.
 
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Thanks for all the advice fellas. Keep it coming. I'm like a sponge. Well...here in Arkansas, I believe the perception of our deer hunting is quite underrated around America. Here in Northwest Arkansas, which is notoriously hilly and woody, the deer hunting is great. Where I will do my hunting is thick with pine and small oaks. Its thick but the trees are smaller so it allows for alot of lanes to shoot. There are several nifty clearings too. One spot I always see tracks around is a little water hole fed by rain. It has no body of water leading to it. I know for a fact there is deer activity around it. I think this would make a great spot to set up a stand near. As far as a feeder goes...How about a chicken feed bucket full of quaker oats? Just a thought, haha! No, I do not plan on actually planting anything to attract deer. I plan on just using corn or oats and possibly a lickin' block. I will go visit mom tomorrow and scout out the land as well. Oh, another thing I'm curious about...One I actually make a kill after bleeding and gutting and skinning, whats next? Do I have it processed or do it myself?
 
Hello friends and neighbors // One thing I use is "diluted" pinesol or other pine scent in spray bottle. I spray boots ,stand area, and sort of step into the mist
I only bleed and gut them(deer).// So some frozen jugs of water, or bags of ice to keep inside deer body cavity on way to processer and $40.00 is all I need these days.///
I drag my deer, never carry it over my shoulders, when hunting near others. Too many risks. Maybe even break out the orange T-shirt if dragging near border of public lands.( 6-7 of us hunt 70 acres, next to 600 acre private hunting area)
IMHO 30-30 great for brush up uo 100yds (although Iv'e seen kills farther); 243. great for more open areas; Heavier load say 180gr. compared to 165gr in my 30.06 and tight shot placement means "I track, walk, and drag,... less much less. Remember different loads center at different ranges.
I'd wait for a broad side shot until I was comfortable with rifle and distances. Mark the shooting lanes at 50yards, 100yards ....with some orange vinyl tape nailed to a tree or white paint ""Just you hunting on 4-5 acres"
Sounds like a perfect set up. Hope you have a fun safe time , put meat on the table(yours any others) and maybe be in the right spot at the right time to get the big one.
You might consider having someone monitor radio (Motorola 2 pack)...while you are out hunting. I do........content
 
In Arkansas you'll HAVE to have the blaze orange vest and hat. Hefty fine without it. I hunted Arkansas over thirty years before moving, primarily in SW Arkansas. I got deer every year and have been invited to come hunt up near Mt. Ida this year, which I plan on doing. Seems I will also be in a black bear zone as well. I'll be headed up in early October to do some scouting of my own. I'd be hitting the woods on a weekly basis if time allows starting next month. Be in the woods and still before the sun comes up, watching. You'll be surprised what you learn just doing that. DON'T ride the four wheeler up to your stand. Park it and walk. If you need a fourwheeler, you can always walk out and get it later.
 
I live in Rogers. We have friends up here who just put corn out on the ground. They don't seem to have any hogs around. Not sure where your mom is , but in most areas around here a 30-30 is fine. My son hunts with that. Of course the .243 will work fine too, but depending on the land you won't be shooting real far. You can just leave the ground blind set up, or use a combination of blinds and stands. Holler if you need help dragging your monster out of the woods! And pay attention to the wind.....
 
1) Don't get discouraged. Learn to enjoy those mornings and evenings for what they are rather than what you are doing. You will actually learn quite a bit from analyzing your hunts after you go home empty handed than by dragging home game. You learn what spots are better for morning or evening hunts, what times are regular for deer movement though the area, and eventually, where the bucks roam. It took me several years before I took my first deer...now I average 3-4 a year and have shots on many times that amount.

2) If you know someone who has hunted, preferably an (kinda touchy here, no offense to anyone) "older" more experienced hunter, have them tag along once or twice. Listen and pay attention...their knowledge is gained through years of trial and error.

3) It's not so much about the guns in question, but how well you trust your shots with them. If you can shoot both quite well...then pick what feels right for that day. You might wake up and say "Well, today feels like a light and fast day...I'll take the .243." A well placed shot with either the .243 or 30-30 will make even the toughest buck eat dirt where he stood.

4) GET OUT THERE AND HUNT!!! The more you hunt, the more everything becomes familiar and instinctive to you. You'll have fun regardless. When you get one...be sure to take a pic and post it for us.
 
Oh, another thing I'm curious about...One I actually make a kill after bleeding and gutting and skinning, whats next? Do I have it processed or do it myself?
No need to "stick" a deer after it's dead. The blood quits pumping when the heart stops(we aren't butchering hogs here;)). Unless you have the nessary tools and a spotless sanitary place to work I'd advise against home processing. Take your field dressed deer(don't forget about the stuff in the hip)to your local butcher shop. The only drawback to this is when you do it yourself you KNOW it's actually your deer you're eating!
 
Hunt as much as possiable. I like tree stands, gives you lots of advantages, can see more an farther, an deer usually don't look for danger in trees. However, they do look up an I've had many try an bluff me. They see you an stomp thier foot down, snort, look away then quickly look back at you trying to get you to move, I almost crack up sometimes! Don't move. If they don't catch your scent 90% of the time they will continue. Remember towards the rut a doe walking passed may bring a buck by within seconds, minutes, or even a few hours later. Watch your movement an noise but you MUST constanly be aware an looking 360 degrees....so many hunters I've been with miss deer by not doing this, they may take 15 min, or sometimes never look behind them, an never see the buck that I seen walk behind them within yards. Deer can appear within seconds after last look, so keep looking slowly, when you hear something don't turn to fast or they may see your movement, move when they aren't looking, or when they are moving.
 
I know its been said before but if you shoot at a deer and it runs off and you are positive you missed, Go Check! The one time I pulled the trigger and was sure I missed the hell out of a doe she was head shot and laying in tall grass right where she had been standing I just didn't see her drop and thought she was one of the other deer running away until I walked out and checked.
As far a processing call around and find a place that gaurntees you that you get your deer back not some filthy gut shot/road killed thing some one drags in there. It may cost an extra 20bucks but its worth it.
 
victoryredchevy You should also look into bow hunting. Just makes for a longer season and more time to learn how deer move. If you go just to set and glass areas to hunt ,its all good. Some where in your area there will be a hang out for the local hunters. Bow shops or shoots ,outdoor ranges. Find them and talk to the locals hunters and check feed stores, most guys there hunt. Also if your have a local not national video store they may have some video to rent that can help some on basic skills. Even a few on tv teach some of the skills needed to become a good hunter. Buy a game cameria like a cuddie back to help see what moves when to help you pattern your deer. Don't expect a great first season or two , it is a learning curve. Besure to kill a doe if given the chance and let the little bucks go .
 
either rifle will do a "bang up" job for deer. just make sure you get in some good practice. you need to be comfortable with shooting the gun or it will be tough to shoot acurately when the time comes. idealy, you would be so accustomed to it, that it is like an extension of your arms.

KNOW what, and or WHO is beyond what you are shooting at! even if you hit the deer right dead where you want, there is a very good chance (way over 50%) that the bullet will exit the animal, and keep on going. you do NOT want to shoot someone by accident! IT WILL RUIN YOUR, AND THEIR DAY! to say the least!

if there are that many deer in the area, baiting is a waste of time, plus, it may scare them off. they know the area so much better than you ever will, and nothing says danger to a whitetail more than something that wasn't there last time through!

as for a stand, either a ladder/tree stand (if legal), or a natural ground blind, built out of logs and limbs that are from the area. but whatever you decide on, get-r-done soon! like i said, something new=danger!

if you have to wear orange clothing (most states do) wear it on a part of you that does not move much. and speaking of moving, one word, DON'T! get in there 1/2 hour before light, and do not leave until 1/2 hour after light. and whatever you do, do not let a deer see you entering or leaving your stand if at all possible. also, anytime you think you have to turn your head, turn it one degree per second, or slower. fast movements will give away your position.

pay attention to your smell! i never thought much about it (i was a mechanic) until years after i quit working, i ran accross a guy i used to work with on a weekend. even after showering, changing clothes, etc., he still smelled like the shop. gas, oil, chemicals get into your skin, and does not just wash off. if you have a job, where you work with chemicals, or in a machine shop, foundry, etc. etc., get scent loc gear, if you work in an office, just shower, and you will be good to go. but you still need to watch your scent. a peice of white thread, about 4" long, tied to the end of your barrel, will tell you where your scent is going. plus, if the wind is blowing hard, dont forget to compensate for it when shooting if it is any distance.

if you do not have a pair of binoculars, get a set. they make seeing deer through the trees much easier. personaly, i like the smaller ones. but to each, his own.

if you can, either get a scope, or fibre optic sights. it will be much easier to get a good shot, if you can see exactly where the shot is going. these really aren't that critical unless it is close to dusk, or dawn. that is when you will need help.

deer hunting is like a business, the three most important things are location, location, location! get out early and scout, scout, scout. try to set yourself up where you will be within 50 yards of at least two intersecting runways, three or four is better. MAKE SURE they are runways! if there is no droppings in it, it is not a runway.

when you shoot the deer, MAKE CERTAIN it is dead before you get to close. walk up to it with a round in the chamber, SAFETY ON, but ready to shoot again. a deer can severely injure you! once you are sure it is dead, try to find someone WITH EXPERIENCE to show or at least tell you as you go how to feild dress the deer. nothing will be worse than going through all of this, and ruining the whole thing by cutting something you shouldn't have!

you may need to have someone to help drag the deer out of the woods. especially if it is hilly! don't kill, or injure yourself trying to get it out by yourself. if you need help, GET IT! there is no shame in that. they PULL HARD!

last thing, remember to have fun! the work begins once you pull the trigger. up to that point, everything else should be at least enjoyable, otherwise, whats the point. unless all you are looking to do is put food on the table. and it doesn't sound like that is what you are after to me.

GOOD LUCK, BE SAFE, AND HAVE FUN!!!
 
Ok, since I didn't have my hunter ed card, I've been taking it online. Seems fairly simple and very common sense oriented. I know if you do the online or cd rom course you have to take another portion of the test in person. What is the remaining part of the course like? Have any of you done the online course?
 
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