I'm inspired by how easy it is to detail strip a Glock. So, those that have both, how hard is detail-stripping a Smith M&P9?
Inspired?!?
The M&P isn't quite as simple as the Glock. The Glock requires a simple pin punch, a small flat blade/slot screw driver and sight tools.
The M&P requires a 1/16th hex/allen wrench; small flat blade screwdriver; armorer's block/wedge; 1/16 drive punch, 3/32 starter punch; 1/8 roll pin & drive punches; hammer; assembly pin & 1/4 brass rod (unless a sight pusher is used).
There's at least one original version of the M&P armorer manual floating around the internet. I have 3 versions I've been given as an armorer (the original '06 manual and 2 subsequent revisions). I imagine a newer revision is either out, or shortly due out, to include the Shield. Last time I asked a few months ago I was told they were still awaiting final approval by their legal dept.
Some thoughts, off the top of my head ...
The original solid extractor pins for the 9/.40/.357's are pressed in very tightly, but the roll pins used in the .45 and newer 9/.40/.357's are easier (the starter punch isn't needed).
The sear housing assembly has changed depending on production vintage and the model. One some blocks the ejector is simply positioned against the left side of the block, held in place by the frame, and in others it's slipped into a slot at the front of the block. The original sear plunger & spring are REALLY small and easily lost. The "new" standard plunger & spring (the original MA compliant parts) only fit in blocks made for them. The thumb safety assembly can be a bit difficult to align between the block and the inside of the frame when positioning everything for installing the rear coil pin through the sear housing block. Installing the mag safety lever's spring can be done incorrectly (bowed end of spring goes forward) and it's done within a tight space. The plastic cap is easily forgotten in the non-safety models. The sear & lever pins shouldn't be mixed up.
The trigger spring is a bit difficult to install without the use of an assembly pin. The front of the spring has to remain properly positioned when the headed trigger pin is installed. (S&W gives armorers the slave pin originally developed for the Sigma armorer class, but now included in their basic plastic pistol tool kit used for M&P, SW99 & Sigma.)
The rear sight does have to be removed in order to service/replace the safety plunger & spring, and there's an added step of positioning the striker assembly relative to the safety plunger when removing/installing the striker assembly. The striker assembly includes a secondary spring, the striker return spring (ala the 99 series
), and there are 2 different striker designs. The original uses a pair of spring keepers and the revised (current) one uses a single keeper, which must be oriented in a specific way.
The wire spring used to retain the takedown lever can be easily lost when the locking block is removed from the frame (I use a dab of grease to better keep it in its locking block recess when the block is out of the frame). The front coil pin is intentionally left a bit outside the frame on the left, to act as a "stop" for the takedown lever (and help prevent marring of the frame by the lever).
It's easy to incorrectly position the trigger bar's tail in the sear housing block when trying to reassemble the frame.
FWIW, as an armorer, the 99 series is more difficult than the M&P in some respects ... and I have absolutely NO desire to regularly support the PPS as an armorer.
In practical terms, it's
not a good idea for untrained folks (and those not having the right tools) to do a "detailed strip". LOTS of enthusiast Glock owners have lost parts, damaged parts and reassembled guns incorrectly.
I can't think of any armorer class I've attended over the years (more than 20) where there wasn't at least one person to lost or damaged parts, or one or more folks who reassembled guns incorrectly.
Bear in mind that this was
after having been given a detailed armorer manual, the right tools, and after having watched an instructor perform and demonstrate the right way to do something being learned ... and having other students seated to either side, available for help, as well as any notes taken during the demo of the procedures being learned.