Did I cant the barrel on my 10/22?

[HoosierQ]

So I put Tech Sights on my 10/22. Drifted out the front sight from left to right. Had the whole thing supported well. Took some serious whacking to get it out...but out it came.

Installed the new front sight and the rear sight...check.

I noticed that the now very tall front sight was definitely canted over in the direction that I drifted the sight out...clockwise looking down the barrel. I checked the sight itself and it was in there very straight in the dovetail and the factory sight also gave the same appearance of having canted clockwise.

So I took my punch, set it on the sight base instead of the dovetail and basically gave it as many and as hard a whacks counter clockwise and it is definitely straight again.

Did I mess the darn thing up? I am talking canted to maybe 12:01, 12:02 and then back again to straight up 12:00 now. I assume not but thought I'd ask.

 

[PRD1]

If you remove the stock...

of your 10/22 and look at how the barrel is attached to the receiver (clamped together with a block and 2 screws), it is evident that the barrel might rotate some when 'whacked' fairly briskly. I suggest that you put the front sight in the middle of the dovetail, then loosen the screws, set the barrel upright (with the front sight straight at 12 o'clock), and re-tighten the clamp screws.
Of course, if you still need to drift the front sight for horizontal zero, you may need to repeat the process.
PRD1 - mhb - Mike

 

[rcmodel]

I'd have to say if your clamp block screws are properly tightened like they should be?

You couldn't whack the barrel hard enough to move it in the receiver with a small sledge hammer without breaking something important.

You need to tighten the clamp screws properly before even fooling with sight zero any further.

rc

 

[HoosierQ]

RC

So the clamp block screws are those holding the barrel in the receiver at a 12:00 position correct? If not sufficiently tight then I might get some motion from the torque of this otherwise "normal" force of drifting?

QB

 

[rcmodel]

Yep!!

I'd pull the barrel out, clean all the mating surfaces, and reinstall the barrel with tight clamp screws.

Then check the angle of the dangle on the front sight, and finish with zeroing it..

rc

 

[Picher]

As part of an accurizing process, I normally use Lock-Tite Sleeve Retainer or similar high-strenth Stud and Bearing mount liquid on barrel-receiver connections. If, in the future, you want to replace the barrel after unscrewing the bolts, heat the receiver with an electric heat gun until the Lock-Tite releases. Lock-Tite melts at temperatures that are lower than those which would cause metal damage.

(Using Lock-Tite on 10-22 barrel-receiver connections yields stability that compares with threaded barrel/receiver connections without weakening the aluminum receiver by threading it.) Re-install the factory mounting system along with the Lock-Tited barrel, but don't use the High-Strength Lock-Tite on bolt threads.

Some people may be concerned about using this method; however, Border Barrel company recommends it for installing their barrels in Anschutz target rifles (but without re-installing barrel retaining pins). Forces generated by tight-headspacing in a bolt rifle can far exceed those from cartridge pressures in a .22LR.

 

[HoosierQ]

Thanks fellas. I'm learning from you all bit by bit. I have learned just enough to have deduced at least the rudiments of what you've told me. Your responses have cleared up the huge gaps in my understanding.

 

[HoosierQ]

Well, I did all that as suggested above and a) it worked well, and b) I learned a lot more about this rifle. The only thing I've ever removed a barrel from prior was my Mossberg 590 and that's just like removing a bayonet.

I've got the the thing straight up 12:00 and got the screws nice and tight. I didn't employ loctite in case I didn't get it right. I will keep that suggestion under consideration for the future.

 

[rcmodel]

Regardless of what Border Barrel company says about Anschutz target rifles?

I would not recommend lock-tighting a Ruger 10/22 barrel in, unless you are building a balls to the wall Target rifle out of it.

But it sounds more like you have a box stock 10/22, and might even want to take the barrel out occasionally for a through cleaning around the extractor cut and breech-face.

Was it me?
I would never ever glue a stock 10/22 carbine barrel in with lock-tight.

rc

 

[TimboKhan]

There is a great book by James House called "customize the Ruger 10/22". It's under 20 bucks, is interesting to read, but most importantly will help you figure out your rifle down to the screws. I am a long time 10/22 devotee, and I recommend it highly!

Also, while I am not trying to chase you away by any means, rimfirecentral.com is a great rimfire forum, and 10/22 rifles play a big role in that forum.

 

[HoosierQ]

Well thanks guys. I got it all straightened out. I pulled out the barrel and cleaned it up. Put it back in and lined it all up...took great pains in doing so. Then I finger tightened the screws so the barrel would stay where I put it and checked the alignment again. I tightened each a little more...repeated until the screws were tight. That receiver is aluminum obviously and the screws and block steel. So I've been told before to tighten with a hex key (the bent L-shaped ones) as tight as you can with the leverage applied to the short side of the L. I went back and forth taking small turns...I did not tighten 1 all the way and then do the other...back and forth until it was as tight as I could get them with the torque generated from the short end of the hex key. I think that will do it.

Didn't get to shoot this weekend so maybe next.

 

[NeuseRvrRat]

if you're gonna do much tinkering on guns, an inch-pounds torque screwdriver will save you a lot of guess work.

 

[HoosierQ]

NeuseRiver

Been looking at same ever since this came up. All I've got is one of the big, old fashioned kind with the long needle...infers the torque by how far the shaft bends. Gotta be +-10% or more...it was good enough for lawnmower blade I guess.

I don't expect to do much more with this thing. I save most of my tinkering for knives frankly. So I am hoping the thightness is close enough. We'll see. I've done enough bolt turning to know it is neither way too tight or way too loose. Where it is in relationship to the factor 28 lbs is probably still a question.