Did I just break my new Blackhawk? Help

Status
Not open for further replies.
R

RobertFBurnett

Member
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
415
O.k. so I'm dry firing my new 50th anniv. flattop with some snap caps, and all of a sudden the hammer won't pull back, its locked up with the hammer down.

So I think that I have the first Ruger internal lock malfunction ever, maybe the internal lock? Open the gate and the cylinder rotates fine. Then when I remove the cylinder the hammer pulls back and cycles fine. Slip back in the cylinder, hammer won't pull back. I am baffled, any advice?

RFB
 
Make sure the cylinder pin is fully seated. If not, it won't push the plunger so that the transfer bar rides over the piring pin. That will prevent the hammer from being pulled back because the transfer bar hits under the firing pin thus preventing further movement of the hammer.
 
Pin seems to be in all the way, will give a more thorough examination when I get home from school.
 
I just got one of those too. Great shooter. BlkHawk73 likely hit your problem on the head. Occassionally you will get a snap cap with an overthick rim, or a loaded round with a protruding primer, so make sure that isn't just coming into battery and tying up the gun, too.
My second cylinderful of Magnums, my gun locked up. Bullet had started coming out of the case. I know how you felt!
Good luck.
 
Easy way to tell if it's the cylinder pin not being in is to hold the gun pointed straight up and try it. This allows the transfer bar to drop back naturally and allow it to move over the firing pin.
 
If the base pin is all the way in, the next possibility is that the small spring-loaded plunger at the end of the base pin is jammed.

This small pin holds the transfer bar back so that it rises behind the firing pin instead of smashing into the bottom edge of the firing pin (tying the action up).

If it's not "springy" you have three choices:

* Try soaking the base pin in solvent and then wiggling it around as there may be some grit in there...

* Get a replacement base pin free from Ruger.

* Buy a replacement Belt Mountain base pin that also has a lockscrew head and gives you a tighter action for about $30 with fast shipping :).
 
Yes, and try removing the snap caps altogether and see what happens. As Virginian said, if the rims snag on the back of the recoil shield, it'll lock up.

If taking out the snap caps solves the problem, you're going to have to try live ammo at a range. You don't want the rims dragging on the back.

You might also engage and disengage the locking mechanism and see if that does anything.
 
Got home and fiddled with it a bit, tried all of your suggestions but none of them worked. Then because it seemed like the action worked flawlessly without the cylinder in there I was thinking the timing of the cylinder latch was off (that little nib right above the "L and the "A" in "BLACKHAWK" underneath the cylinder wasn't dipping at the right time to allow rotation, if thats possible and what thats called?) so I gave that a few presses, reassembled it and it seems to work fine. Let me know if any of that sounds fishy and I need to look out for anything.

Haven't stripped it down for a full cleaning yet (.44 cal Bore brush, patches and some cleaner arrives UPS tomorrow.) Maybe something was gumming up the works? Thank you all for your help and support!

While in the company of experts may I now follow up with if it had been the base pin how do I remove it? Is it as simples as unscrewing the screw on the ejector housing closest to the muzzle, taking that off, and pulling out pin? Any thing that makes that more complicated and I could mess up?

Once again thank you all, RFB
 
Stop. Don't go taking any screws out yet. Get out that little book that came with the revolver and read it. The base pin is the pin you already pulled forward to remove the cylinder; the one with the spring loaded latch.
It sounds like whatever it was is a minor issue - maybe dirt/machine residue, fat rim, whatever. Big problems like this would be if it was mechanical do not usually come and go. I am thinking it was either the base pin was not all the way in (quite likely), or the little spring loaded pin in the front of the base pin was sticking as already alluded to (possible, but not likely).
When you take it apart, do not force anything when you put it back together. If you have everything right, you will not have to force anything, remember that. (Hint - get the trigger spring up under the lip on the trigger when putting the grip frame back on.) I have had a bunch of these, and that is true in all cases. Before you start you really ought to get a gunsmith style screwdriver with hollow ground bits that fits the screws properly. Bugger up the screw heads and you are going to be unhappy. If everything feels good when you work the action, and it's new, you don't really need to be worrying about taking it apart right away.
 
My bet is on the base pin.

The little spring loaded tip when fully installed goes through the hole in the recoil shield and presses againt the transfer bar, holding it to the rear.

If this spring tip sticks in the in position or isnt all theway through or the base pin is loose, it won't push the transferbar to the rear and the top transfer bar edge will hang up on the firing pin and lock the whole action up.

Pointing the barrel straight up will free the action when the transferbar falls back away from the firing pin and you will then be able to cock the hammer.

Make sure the base pin is all the way in and the spring loaded tip moves in and out freely.
 
Ruger Lockup

The hammer plunger may be broken. I have seen this happen on Single Sixes a couple of times and it locks up when the loading gate is closed. This is an easy piece to manufacture yourself, but since the gun is new, have the factory fix it if it is broken.
 
While in the company of experts may I now follow up with if it had been the base pin how do I remove it? Is it as simples as unscrewing the screw on the ejector housing closest to the muzzle, taking that off, and pulling out pin? Any thing that makes that more complicated and I could mess up?
Click to expand...

In the large-frame SAs, yes, that's how you get the base pin completely out of the gun.

With the mid-frames the cylinder and cylinder frame are shorter and the base pin can drop free, at least on the 4.68" and longer barrel lengths. The 3.75" Montado barrel might require pulling the ejector rod housing...
 
It is working again, thank you all for your support. It did have one quick studder and a quick disassembly and reassembly (or in this case field strip?, no screwdrivers involved. :)) took care of it.

At this point should I take it out to the range one time just to feel it and then ship it back to Ruger? It is 2 days old for Heavens sakes.

RFB
 
I can't tell you what to do, but I would not ship a gun back until I positively had pinned down the problem to something that they should remedy. Just a quirk of mine. If you tell them exactly what needs doing you have a whole, whole lot better chance of getting an intermittant problem actually fixed. Also, I hate to ship a gun off, and usually I can just get them to send me a part to fix the problem after I find it. But that's me. You do what makes you feel right.
P.S. - This is what I have done with revolvers, shotguns, and a few rifles. I only have one pistol, and so far my Mark II is clicking away slicker than an old IBM Selectric. If it ever stops then I will have to see how I do with pistols.
 
Mike, don't know when it happened, here is Ruger's official overview, and here is how they spin it: "** Internal lock unobtrusively located beneath the right grip panel provides an added measure of security."

RFB
 
My new new vaquero XR3 came with the first one I have ever seen, didnt know it had it till I got it home and took the grips off.

That was 2.5 years ago, since then Ruger has been adding them to all new revolvers. Anyone have a DA like an SP or a redhawk that has one??

I haven't messed with it or used it, I dont carry the gun. It seems to work by locking the mainspring somehow, maybe I will take the grips off and study it today. It does seem like it would be easily replaced with the new spring and spring guide. Of course I will have to find the key first.

Could it be the cause of your problems, lock and unlock it a few times.

Lets all bow down and thank the Lawyers for this, its everybit as useful as the 12 warning stickers telling me not to fall that are on my new ladder.
 
its everybit as useful as the 12 warning stickers telling me not to fall that are on my new ladder.
Click to expand...

Remember, there wouldn't be a sticker if it had not happened to someone already..."Caution, Do Not attempt to change fan belt while engine is running." Or my personal favorite..."Caution, Sidewalk may become wet when it rains."

RFB
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

W
  • Locked
New model Blackhawk .357 problem
Replies
5
Views
723
MCgunner
M
D
  • Locked
Won't shoot gansta' style
Replies
20
Views
1K
Old Fuff
O
C
  • Locked
What did I break?
Replies
7
Views
928
lee n. field
L
M
  • Locked
vaquero-latch bolt drags when gate is open
Replies
3
Views
703
Jim March
J
L
  • Locked
Ruger Super Blackhawk Questions
Replies
16
Views
1K
llwsgn
L
Back
Top