Dillon 650 Bulk Reloading Mixed 556/223

[JoshIronshaft]

I'm looking to try and increase the efficiency of my 556/223 reloading for my AR15. I consider myself somewhat a reloading noob, because I've only been reloading for a little over a year and I don't know plenty, but I've had good success so far and enjoy shooting in higher volume. I've already reloaded 2000 rounds of 223 and then loaded 3000 rounds of 9mm. The 9mm has spoiled me because there is less case prep. Out of the tumbler and into the case feeder on the 650 it goes. I'm looking for any way I can save time with the 556/223 case prep. I'm afraid the answer is going to be a Dillon 1050, which I'm not quite ready to invest in, but maybe there is something else I'm not aware of.

My current process starts with sorting mixed range brass into three piles: 223, 223 with crimped primer pocket, and 556. I process them as three separate batches. I tumble them and clean them prior to depriming. They're lubed and run through a full length resizing die on a single stage press. Next I check case length with dial calipers and any that need it are run through a Dillion Rapid Trim on it's own single stage press. If its a batch with a crimped primer pocket I then run it through a Dillon primer pocket swaging tool. Next the brass goes in the 650 which is set up with an auto case feeder, first stage empty, second stage Dillon powder measure, third stage bullet seat, third stage crimp, and done.

I know that's already a pretty slick set up but the 9mm really got me looking for a way to save time and reduce case prep, because I want to load thousands and thousands of rounds.

I guess this is a good place for a disclaimer: I'm loading for training classes, recreational shooting, and competition where I'm slaying paper targets and the farthest shots are 100 yards, maybe 200, so I'm going for bulk here with Wolf or CCI Primers, CFE 223 or AR Comp, and 55 gr FMJ BT projectiles. I'm not concerned with sub-moa accuracy or slight variations in velocity. Safety and functionality are most important.

I got my one big idea for improving efficiency when I was reading an article about bulk reloading and they said that since the Rapid Trimmer has an outside the case full length sizing die, I can run the brass through the trimmer in its single stage press first. I could then move the full length sizing and depriming die to the first stage in the 650 and eliminate the use of that other single stage press. My head was like *BOOM* that's huge eliminating the work at one additional press, but that doesn't help me with my brass that needs the primer pocket swaged, of which I have a TON of. I couldn't go from deprime to priming in the 650 without running it through the swaging tool.

I think the 1050 is the best solution because it has a built in primer pocket swaging tool in the press from what I'm told, but I'm not ready to make that jump yet. Is there a better way I can process ALL of my brass without buying the 1050?

Any tips or suggestions are appreciated!

 

[Gadawg88]

You could save time by not measuring each case to see if it needs to be trimmed. Just run them all through the rapid trim. The ones that need it will get it and those that don't, no harm. I don't have a rapid trim but I have seen YouTube vids of it in action. Looks pretty cool. Also, with the swaging, as you know I am sure, you only have to do it once. You said you are already sorting your brass, so use a universal decapping die to deprime and then swage the batch that needs swaging and then it can be run with all your other brass. I am afraid to get much faster is going to require major investment for marginal (arguably) improvement.

 

[LiveLife]

Welcome to THR.

I have a Dillon 650 and reload .223/.300BLK/.308 but for bottleneck rifle cases, I always add a QC step of checking for incipient case head separation. And this QC check I do by hand and cannot be done on a progressive press.

THR thread - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=761860

The Rifleman's Journal - http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2010/05/reloading-case-head-separations.html

Safety and functionality are most important.

For me, safety trumps everything else but a case head separation will really throw a wrench in your match stage time and score.

 

[jak67429]

For unsorted or range pickup. I have my rapid trim setup on my old hornady progressive with decap die in station 1 trim in station 3. I spray lube and run all cases through, then tumble and sort.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

This is how I run any once fired brass I buy or range pickups, basically brass that is new to me on my Dillon 650.

First I run the brass in my SS wet tumbler for about 2 hr. I do this because it makes the brass cleaner then a regular tumbler will with walnut which in turn makes my press cleaner and my reloading bench.

Dump in the case feeder, station 1 has a Universal deprime die, run all the brass through. Now I go to the Dillon 600 and swag all the brass, I've found its faster to swag it all then it is to separate the brass into piles of needs swagging and doesn't need swagging.

Throw brass back into case feeder. Install tool head with a sizing die in station 1 and trim die in station 4. Set the sizing die to size about 75% of the case and the trim to finish it off.

Throw brass back in tumbler to clean lube off but this time its just a regular tumbler with corn cob run for about 20 minutes.

Now if I feel like separating the brass out by head stamp I will at this time. Throw brass back in case feeder, station 1 universal deprime die, station 2 powder, station 4 seater die.

 

[mizer67]

1.) Don't sort them
2.) Ditch the single stage and size/trim them all in one step on the 650 on a separate tool head using the Dillon trimmer and a FL sizing die
3.) Tumble off the lube
4.) Swage them all if needed
5.) Load them up on the 650 on another tool head

If you give them a slight (very slight) bell with a Lyman M die, you don't need to de-burr.

If you feel the need to sort, you can do it after. If you're loading bulk and aren't particularly concerned with accuracy, I wouldn't bother.

The 1050 will only save you any real time in swaging. The stroke isn't that much faster than the 650. It's really, really nice to have, but if you're re-using your own brass the swaging is a one time deal and you'll re-use them for 5-6 loadings.

When I shoot .223 in volume, I'm only looking to get my own LC brass back normally, just because the usual commercial stuff like Federal is soft and not worth the effort and I don't want to swage.

 

[medalguy]

^^^ This. You do know that regardless of the headstamp, the brass will vary according to what chamber it was fired in. Once you resize it, it's all .223 brass. Just watch the shoulder setback and don't move it any more than necessary.

 

[jmorris]

You could always pick up all the brass that you would ever want after matches and sort keep the non crimped brass and sell the rest for someone else to deal with.

I started using a turret many years ago then a 650 and now load on a 1050. The 1050 is better than the 650 for more reasons than just the swager but much more expensive.

Never loaded anything with a 650 as fast as I can load .223 on a 1050.

I set this up to keep up with my 3 gun/practice needs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=La83ZVKnBzw

 

[iShoot17]

Or..... To keep everything on the 650...

Look up the "G.S. Custom Primer Pocket Swager" on eBay. If you search for it within Google, you'll find videos, write-ups, etc.

It is definitely NOT the best option, but is an option for keeping everything on the 650. It replaces the priming system on the press for a swaging rod. I suggest you check out some videos.

I will say this: It WILL void your 650 warranty if you use it and by chance something happens to the press. I simply gave this option because you asked for a solution and this is a possible one.

 

[JoshIronshaft]

Thanks for the feedback everyone. I ordered another toolhead to deprime and trim. It makes sense to have that to quickly put in my 650 instead of playing with these two single stage presses and touching the stuff twice or even putting in a shell holder.

In regards to tumbling to remove case lube, I'm using the Hornady aerosol spray lube and I have never removed it before loading. I haven't had any issues with powder contamination, etc. Is there something I'm missing?

I have not had a single case that needed deburred after the Dillon trimmer. That high speed carbide cutter does a really clean job.

I have no interest in sorting brass unless I have to.

I've heard some people say I need to separate my 556 and 223 brass, which I have done so far just to avoid swaging all the primer pockets, but after reading different and doing some experimenting, I found that a large sample of all the different headstamp 223 and 556 brass I have collected (about 20 different headstamps) have a range of internal volumes that led me to the conclusion I can use a load that is safe for all my brass, be it wolf gold 223 or lake city 556.

 

[JoshIronshaft]

Got my extra 650 toolhead and set up the deprime and full length sizing die in stage 1 and the trimmer in stage 4. I setup the trimmer in stage 3 and got it dialed in perfect then I realized that I couldn't pull the pin to remove the toolhead because it would hit the trimmer body, DOH! So I moved it stage 4 and set it up all over again. Oh well. Great set up though. Things are a lot faster. I was tempted by the primer pocket swaging tool that replaces the primer seater but for now I will keep using the 600 super swager until I get antsy for another upgrade.

 

[sevt_chevelle]

You might want to head over to Brian Enso's site for anything Dillon related.
Some guys have bought and used that GS swagger and haven't been impressed.

Also Brian sells Dillon stuff, its the only place from IMO.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?act=idx