Okie_Poke

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Oklahoma
Hello all. I have an XL-750 with a case feeder that I use to reload my AR calibers (5.56 and 6.5 Grendel). I have purchased a few extras for it over the last couple of years and am considering a few more. Before I buy anything else, however, I would like some input from folks who run an XL650 or XL750 and have done or not done some of these. Your experience and feedback is most appreciated.

My Setup

I have an XL750 with a Dillon case feeder mounted on an Inline Precision micro mount. In terms of extra accessories, it's got a roller handle, two bullet bins on a swinging arm, an LED light kit, a hex key and wrench kit, the little locator pin tabs, and a mounted primer tube rack. Here's a picture of my setup:
Dillon XL750.jpg

I also have a couple of zero-play toolheads from Armanov that use free-floating die lock rings, similar to the Whidden toolheads. When I bought those, I picked up a quick disconnect thingy from Armanov for the powder measure that lets you take the powder measure on and off to dump it out without messing with the hex screws on the powder clamp.

Recently, I broke the white bushing on the powder measure return rod, and so I purchased an "upgraded" bushing and speed nut from Entirely Crimson. And, there's a rubber band (very high tech) on the powder measure that is supposed to help it spill less powder according to some random guy on YouTube.

I'm overall pleased with the press and think it does a fine job cranking out AR food when I ask it to. But, I have two chief complaints: (1) it still spills more ball powder than I think it should; and (2) it doesn't seat primers quite as deep as I'd like. Hence my search for other potential upgrades.

Possible Upgrades

A couple of different outfits sell bearing kits that have low mass detent balls, thrust and/or roller bearings, springs, and other accoutrements to help smooth up the press action. Uniquetek and Hit Factor Supply offer a couple of examples. Does anyone have any feedback or experience with these products or recommend something else?

Although it would not include a low mass detent ball or reduced spring, Entirely Crimson has a thrust bearing they sell. Is that enough?

Something else that intrigues me is Armanov's index bearing cam block spring, which looks like it's supposed to help smooth things out a bit as well, and it comes with a spring that's supposed to allow you to seat primers deeper. That primer spring looks like it should be inexpensive to purchase separately---any leads or recommendations?

Does anyone have experience with any of these products or others that they would---or, equally as important, would not---recommend? Thank you in advance.
 
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Big upgrade, made at home, is a plastic washer for the shellplate. Rides between the bolt and the shell plate.

#1 - make sure your shell plate is flat. Have heard some are not. I ran all of mine across 1200 grit on a granite block. Very, very minimal amount removed.

Picked up a hard plastic washer at Ace hardware that fit the indent on top of the shell plate, and, by chance, also fit the bolt external dimension. I sanded the plastic washer to make sure it was flat, applied some dry graphite, and now the shell plate turns smoother.

#2 - roller handle is darn near a must.

#3 - I still run a spring to help return the carriage on the powder drop - like the original Dillon 550's used. Again, Ace is the place! I think this helps in dropping the same volume of powder, regardless if stick or ball type powder.
 
Those roller bearings are junk IMO.
Had em, threw in the trash.
Guy on ebay makes and sells dillon upgrade parts, his are solid bronze and far superior IMO.
He also makes a roller index rod.

His name is something like snowshoez

I got the primer stop switch 9F7962B4-9F5E-4C95-95EF-2802D0A03B24.jpeg upgrade from “snowshoez” works really well. Haven’t sent a primer down the ski ramp since.
 
When I had a 750 on my bench, I also had the Inline Fabrication Ergo handle, but I had it mounted on the full sized Ultramount. Also had the Armanov tool head and quick disconnect for the powder measure. Additionally had the Armanov Clickable powder adjustment dial, spent primer chute, and Index Bearing Cam block.

Uniquetek Case Feed Stop Switch makes it easy to adjust dies and powder measure while still allowing shell plate to rotate. Their Bearing Camming Pin smooths operation

Got tired with the Dillon powder measure and upgraded to one from Mark 7. Added a Pyrex powder hopper from Dramworx and a Case Expander insert, with M-die profile, from DAA at the same time

KMS (squared) UFO lighting system is the best available on the market for the Dillon 750
 
I’m a 650 owner too but for the mods that will also work on the 750, I think a Timken NTA-815 thrust bearing and two washers certainly smooth out the shell plates action.




I would also be on the look out for a GSI tool head.



If your eyes are older the KMS^2 UFO lights are a very nice addition as well.
 
I’m a 650 owner too but for the mods that will also work on the 750, I think a Timken NTA-815 thrust bearing and two washers certainly smooth out the shell plates action.



@jmorris
First, thank you for everthing you post, you are an extreme wealth of knowledge with the ability to post and answer questions without making people feel belittled.

The modification you show in the video will work on an XL650, correct?
Does the bearing need to be made from a certain material?
Are the 2 washers just metal or made from a certain type material?
Forgive my ignorance but what order do the parts go in?
Thrust bearing on bottom and then the washers on top?
Washer, thrust bearing, washer?
Washer,washer then thrust bearing on top?
 
Thank you, I have learned lots of things the same as everyone else, the hard way. Yes, those are 650’s, the priming system is the main difference between the two presses. They both use the same conversion kits, shell plate and shoulder bolt.

The Timken NTA-815 is a needle bearing thrust washer, the flat washers (hard and made to be used with the thrust washer are so the thrust bearing isn’t rolling directly on the shell plate or bolt head but between the flat washers.

I picked mine up at a local bearing supply so I didn’t have to pay shipping on a $1 part. Someone else had told me that NAPA auto parts also had them but marked up to $5.

edit: they do $6, without flat washers https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRGNTA815

$3 on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Koyo-Assembl...012479&keywords=nta+815&qid=1676132647&sr=8-1
 
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@jmorris

Like the one below?

I still need to measure the OD of the bolt so the dimensions on the one in the link may not be right.

Aftermarket OK or should I look for a "Timken"?

uxcell AXK5578 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 55mm Bore 78mm OD 3mm Width https://a.co/d/dM03l5x
 
In order of effectiveness, here's my 650/750 list...
• Spent primer chute by any maker
• LED lighting kit by KMS Squared
• Large plastic powder measure adjustment knobs by any maker
• Shellplate indexing roller cam by Snowshooze
• Rapid powder measure disconnect by Entirely Crimson
• Machined and colored Tool Heads by JoferUSA

I highly prefer the options made by eBay seller Snowshooze
.
The light from the UFO LED lamps is easily 2X the other brands.
jS4dvQRl.jpg

Large plastic knobs make PM adjustment so much quicker and easier.
0tvdeQql.jpg

The shellplate roller cam from Showshooze works the best.
iM7Zta9l.jpg

The quick detach latch (shown in silver) makes moving your PM quick and easy.
AU921xWl.jpg

Color-coded tool heads from JoferUSA make ID easy.
z1u5fWnl.jpg
 
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I too like the jofer tool heads, I have the hit factor thrust bearing and aluminum ejector. I use a 5.56/223 case for a cheap case feed stop.
 
@jmorris

Like the one below?

I still need to measure the OD of the bolt so the dimensions on the one in the link may not be right.

Aftermarket OK or should I look for a "Timken"?

uxcell AXK5578 Thrust Needle Roller Bearings with Washers 55mm Bore 78mm OD 3mm Width https://a.co/d/dM03l5x

55mm bore is way too big. The bore will be for the 1/2” shoulder bolt that holds the shell plate down. OD is 15/16 and 5/64 width. Stainless washers (the same OD as the bearing) is what I used. Washer, bearing, washer.

I haven’t tried any other brands but if they are built to the same specifications they should work just fine.
 
Thank you for all the feedback! I appreciate your insights. I'll have to watch Snowshooz Ebay page---right now he only has a low mass ball and reduced spring for a Dillon posted. I know the priming system changed between the 650 and the 750, so those of you running a 650 may not have any great ideas on the priming issue, but if anyone has any experience with getting the 750 to seat primers a little deeper, I'm all ears. I'm only finding limited feedback on that Armanov part elsewhere and I don't have any other grand ideas.
 
In order of effectiveness, here's my 650/750 list...
• Spent primer chute by any maker
• LED lighting kit by KMS Squared
• Large plastic powder measure adjustment knobs by any maker
• Shellplate indexing roller cam by Snowshooze
• Rapid powder measure disconnect by Entirely Crimson
• Machined and colored Tool Heads by JoferUSA

I highly prefer the options made by eBay seller Snowshooze
.
The light from the UFO LED lamps is easily 2X the other brands.
View attachment 1132870

Large plastic knobs make PM adjustment so much quicker and easier.
View attachment 1132871

The shellplate roller cam from Showshooze works the best.
View attachment 1132872

The quick detach latch (shown in silver) makes moving your PM quick and easy.
View attachment 1132873

Color-coded tool heads from JoferUSA make ID easy.
View attachment 1132874

What length of spring did you use on that powder measure? I have a rubber band that's supposed to be accomplishing the same thing, but I've heard of guys using a spring like that.

#3 - I still run a spring to help return the carriage on the powder drop - like the original Dillon 550's used. Again, Ace is the place! I think this helps in dropping the same volume of powder, regardless if stick or ball type powder.

Same question!
 
I use most of the uniquetek parts and are very happy with mine. The bearing etc full kit installed easy and works fine. The failsafe rod bracket eliminated one of the disappointing aspects of the press, and the case feeder roller too, but that's just nice to have. The brass tips for the primer magazines resolved my occasional primer feed issues. Kit to tap and bolt the toolheads to the press vs locator pins reduced my OAL variation (using Dillon CNC heads which had more slop with just the pins vs factory).

I drop VV N310 within a few hundredths using the plane Jane small powder bar (4-6gr) in a Dillon PM I polished up a bit and put a dramworx hopper on, photoescape PTUs.
 
if anyone has any experience with getting the 750 to seat primers a little deeper, I'm all ears.

Remove all cases from the shell plate and press the handle forward, like you are trying to seat a primer and hold it there. Does the primer seat punch rise well above where the bottom of the case will be, in the shell plate, similar to these?

191D271A-2846-4CF0-98E6-7C607FC2F791.jpeg 5F748CB4-A8A7-4323-98D0-D5FC0DC7FF62.jpeg

If so, pushing a little harder is the solution. I did have one press where I made a handle at that portion of the stroke, so I could squeeze the primers in place. Once I learned the correct amount of force, I removed it though.
 
I've done pretty much all the regular upgrades to my 650. Shell Plate bearing, indexer bearing, case feeder bearing, replaced the ball and spring, ski jump fix, primer chute fix.

I picked up these for the pins for 9mm cases. love them. Did more to stop jerking and powder spill than everything else I tried put together.
https://benstoegerproshop.com/dillo...0-rl1100-spill-stop-by-reloading-innovations/
Are these $10 each, or do the come in packs of three or something?
 
Remove all cases from the shell plate and press the handle forward, like you are trying to seat a primer and hold it there. Does the primer seat punch rise well above where the bottom of the case will be, in the shell plate, similar to these?

If so, pushing a little harder is the solution. I did have one press where I made a handle at that portion of the stroke, so I could squeeze the primers in place. Once I learned the correct amount of force, I removed it though.

Thanks. I will double-check this. I'm pretty careful about pushing that handle about as far forward as I can to prime. It was not a situation where a few or only some of the cases seated primers high. The press very consistently seated all of the primers right at flush, I just prefer them to be slightly under flush. I only notice this with Hornady 6.5 Grendel brass; it seats the same primers ever-so-slightly deeper in 5.56 brass.
 
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