I did a trigger job on my Security Six that turned out rather well. You can get lighter springs from Wolf. I just trimmed the spring on the Security Six. I know, I know, all the comments about light hits. What I did was prime a bunch of empty brass. I'd fire the gun, trim a little, fire the gun, and when I started to notice the indentions on the primers getting a little shallower with CCI primers, I stopped. I was able to lighten the trigger quite a bit. For smooth, if you can't use a stone without screwing up the sear, don't mess with that. I was able to smooth the sear by light stoning. I used lapping compound on the hammer pivot and working parts and cycled it while watching TV for until both my thumbs wore out, cycled some more later, then pulled it back apart and cleaned and lubed.
That was one of the best triggers I've ever owned on a revolver once I got done with it. Thousands of rounds and no misfires, either. It was light and smooth and extremely controllable, daylight and dark difference from the out of the box gun. I think Ruger springs tend to be overkill in strength and that hurts the DA pull a bit, but you don't wanna get carried away and get misfires from light hits, of course. Just that they can be greatly improved in effort where a Smith might not be quite as improvable other than improving smoothness, which of course is the most important anyway. I'd do the primer check thing with a Wolf spring, too, compare it to the stock spring, if I installed a light Wolf spring, just to make sure it will be reliable. The primer strike check is easy to do and good insurance for reliability.
If you aren't particularly mechanically inclined and not familiar with the lock work, you might be better off taking it to a smith first before screwing it up and THEN taking it to him.
Rugers can be improved, though, by quite a lot I guess because they're so bad out of the box. But, it don't take much to make 'em better'n good.