Ruger SP101 - do it yourself action job?

[DHart]

Does anyone know if the Ruger SP101 lends itself well to a home-done action smoothing? Any online instructions to do so?

My new one is a little on the rough side with a really heavy trigger pull. I've been dry firing a fair bit which seems to have smoothed it very slightly, but I'd like to do more if possible to get a nice pull. If I can smooth it with polishing and possibly lighten the pull a tad (without compromising the primer strikes) that would be great. Thanks in advance...

 

[bp_cowboy]

I did mine myself

by buying the spring kit with the different weight springs. If you search through the forums you can find detailed instructions on how to do it yourself. Plus it also helped by me firing about 500 rounds through it also.

 

[skynyrd1911]

sp101

Wolff spring kit Stock number 17113
Item: Revolver shooter's pak reduced power
For use in: Ruger Sp-101 revolvers all calibers


This is what I used. With a friend's help we got my SP-101 to be SMOOTH.
My spring kit cost $12.50 plus tax here locally. There's several places you can order the spring kits I'm sure. Brownell's being one place.
www.brownells.com
www.gunsprings.com

 

[MikeK]

Another vote for the spring kit. The hammer spring did wonders for the DA pull, the trigger spring in reduced weight was not reliable. It's not as smooth as my pre-agreement S&W 686, but it also uses a different mechanism. A dinner fork works well for installation. I think I drilled a hole in a board and placed the strut in there and used the fork to compress the spring until I got the metal piece back in. Wear safety glasses.

 

[DHart]

I see that the factory hammer spring is 14# and there are reduced power springs available in 12, 11, 10, and 9#. Do the lighest of these have the potential to reduce the reliability by decreasing primer strikes?

Is there any consensus on which of the lighter hammer springs seems optimal in improving function without compromising reliability?

I guess I should leave the trigger spring alone because of reduced reliability by going to the 8# trigger return spring (10# is factory standard).

 

[BlkHawk73]

I just installed the Wolff spring kit and it did wonders for the trigger. A bit of dry firing and shooting also seemed to smooth i up a bit. Maybe a bit of polishin compound with some dry firing would smooth more. Heard of this but never tried it.

 

[DHart]

BlkHawk... which weight hammer spring did you decide on using? Did you switch to a lighter trigger spring?

I just sprnt about 30 minutes using the search function to find "how-to's" on action work on the Sp 101 and somehow, couldn't find one. Lots of interesting threads on the 101 though!

Can anyone give me a link to threads on doing action work on the SP101 (or GP100, I bought one of those too!)

Many thanks...

 

[iluvG.R.I.T.S]

The Rugers or easy to work on.Once the triger group is out of the gun dont squeze the triger or the lil pin will go flying.You can go to www.rugerfourm to learn more. If you still dont find it email me and ill tell you in detail

 

[bp_cowboy]

If I remember correctly

I think I found the instructions on www.glocktalk.com

 

[Jubjub]

I picked up a used SP101 .22 a couple of weeks ago, and put in the Woolf kit. With the 10 pound mainspring, I got several misfires shooting double action, so I went up to the 12 pound. This one has been shot enough that it is smoothed out some, but it will never be as slick as some of my Smiths. There just seems to be an awful lot of clicking going on during the trigger stroke. Single action pull is very nice, though, and for a kit gun that's what counts.

 

[DHart]

Thanks.. I did find some good info on Glocktalk.

 

[Black Snowman]

The light hammer springs can cause light strikes. Kamicosmos did the Wolff kit and tested with CCI Mag primers (some of the hardest to ignite) and swaped out to heavier springs until they worked 100%. Can't remember the final weight but I was thinking 11#s. He hasn't changed the trigger spring.