Poor Boy Trigger Job Ruger New Vaquero

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doubletap,

I see that you are new here.

CraigC is a smart guy with a lot of experience. I would read what he posts really closely.
 
Interesting thread. My personal thoughts are not to tamper with the springs. I've found that with rugers, a little oil in the internals and some time at the range are another type of "poor mans trigger job", as the burrs and rough edges of the cast steel will smooth out a bit and reduce percieved trigger pull. This has the added benefit of exercising your trigger finger. However, if the firearm is not meant to be used for your defensive purposes and you don't mind potentially damaging a spring or two, then I would encourage you to experiment as you see fit, just remember to be safe in whatever you do.
 
just got back from the range. my groupings have improved Vastly with the lighter trigger pull. 38 +Ps at 10 yards all 6 rounds in a 2 inch circle. 357 magnum rounds all 6 rounds within a 4 inch circle. 38 +p at 15 yards all 6 rounds within a 3 inch circle and 357 magnum all 6 rounds within a 5 inch circle. fired 2 handed and 1 handed good enough accuracy for me! it really has made a difference. ill order some new wolf springs for the trigger but until they are in the gun the poor boy trigger will stay as is. CraigC i didnt feel any springs rubbing together at all, the action is still as smooth as ever.
 
I did it to my blackhawk and shot it that way for a few months, I ended up putting the spring back on. The trigger pull was to light for my taste.

While I may be the biggest fool on earth to try it, it took a couple minutes to do and a couple minutes to reverse with no ill effects. Guess I should have paid a smith to do it properly.......and then paid him again to reverse it. I'll remember that for next time.
 
And this is why it's such a great mod. It doesn't cost a dime, it's super simple, doesn't require any tools (other than a screwdriver), and if you don't like it, you can reverse it.
 
I may be the odd duck in the flock, but a little trigger creep never really bothered me as long as it's smooth. When bearing down to take a careful shot, it actually helps me a little because if forces me to get a firm, consistent grip on the gun and pay close attention to my front sight.

I mean...think about it. When you fire a revolver in the DA mode...that's pretty much the same thing, no?
 
I may be the odd duck in the flock, but a little trigger creep never really bothered me as long as it's smooth.
Ruger New Models usually have a lot of creep and it's almost never smooth. Bill Ruger put safety first, with apparently little concern for trigger quality. Creep is actually inherent to the design, because the transfer bar is attached to the trigger. It takes a certain amount of trigger travel for the transfer bar to move up far enough to engage the firing pin. Rugers are designed to have a as little hand-fitting as possible so lots of guns come out with lots of creep. Which is why I always recommend a gunsmith who is intimately familiar with the New Model design. A New Model will never have the crisp, light trigger of a Colt or Old Model but with a little work, they can be very good.


Sometimes the best advice comes from a question you didn't ask
Sometimes you have to know enough to ask the right question. ;)
 
after reading all the posts, this may be something I try the next time I am at the range. Give myself an idea of what lighter springs might give me.
 
Ruger New Models usually have a lot of creep and it's almost never smooth.

True that, but it was pretty easy to smooth up with some oil and a few moderate hammer boosts. It's tol'able.

The creep in both my New Vaqueros was smooth from day one. Don't know if that's a fluke, or if something has changed...but there it is.
 
Ruger made a lot of improvements with the New Vaquero and new flat-tops. Not only in the design but in the manufacturing. They're produced on all new CNC equipment and have proven to be much better made guns than their predecessors. They also have a lighter hammer spring and that alleviates things as well. Plus, since day one all Vaquero parts have been batch-polished in a tumbler and that helps too.
 
1911Tuner said:
.....it was pretty easy to smooth up with some oil and a few moderate hammer boosts

Hey Tuner is what you call hammer boosts where you put pressure on the hammer with your thumb and pull the trigger? I first read about that on that gunblast site, never did it cause it really didn't sound that great of an idea and my new flattop Blackhawk trigger honestly doesn't feel that bad. Is that something that actually works, and won't screw anything up? Do you get the same thing by just going out and putting rounds through the gun?
 
Snag...yes, it works. The mechanism is more in ironing out the rough spots and burnishing than anything else...like dry-firing it a few hundred times.

Boosting MIM hammers should be done carefully, without a tool. I watched a guy behind the counter in a gun shop roll the hooks right off the hammer on a brand-new Springfield GI Mil-Spec by boosting it with a screwdriver. Luckily for him, the shop owner had gone to lunch and I had a nearly new take-off hammer. I went home and got it...and we buttoned the pistol up about 2 minutes before the boss came through the door.
 
I guess I cheated, put in a Power Custom Bisley hammer, trigger,along with a spring kit in my NM Blachawk, had to remove some metal on the trigger to make it work in the Blackhawk gripframe but the results was worth the time and money, very light smooth zero creep, but absolutley safe.

I boosted the original trigger hammer combo using automotive rubbing compound on the surfaces and reprofiled the trigger return spring. It took out a lot of the gritty feeling but still had lots of creep.
 
There is a wealth of help and helpful people on here. One of many reasons I like this forum so much.
 
Jaymo,

Nope, no blacksmiths in this part of the world. The smith I take mine to worked for Les Baer for about 14 years. I took a new SP 101 into him, gritty DA trigger, Phil said casting burrs were the problem, plus rough trigger and hammer strut. Polished hammer and trigger, removed the casting burrs, put on a #12 lb. spring on the hammer, in place of the factory #14 .lb, spring, lighter springs on the trigger, $60 OTD.

DA is smoother than the SA now, best trigger job I've ever had on a revolver, nowhere near my Python though!

Answer your question?
 
If you have a Ruger single action you can dry fire it. Ib fact, ruger encourages owners to dry fire their single actions. They say dry firing helps you become accustomed to the weapon.
 
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