Do non-toxic solvents really work well?

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Welcome to my small non-scientific test of non-toxic solvents. Specifically, non-toxic gun cleaners and copper solvents. I did quite a bit of research and reading about these solvents, mostly here on THR and the links that some helpfully provided, because I was keen to switch to something that works well, but is both user friendly and doesn’t harm either the user or the environment.

So, thanks to my CC and Midway, once I had decided on the candidates, it didn’t take me long to assemble the contenders.

In no particular order – M-Pro 7, Hoppe’s Elite Gun Cleaner (supposedly identical to the latter), Gunzilla, and two special purpose bore solvents, Bore Tech Eliminator and Hoppe’s Elite Copper Terminator.

The candidate for this test was the barrel (and bore) of my brand new HK P2000. I had given it a light cleaning prior to putting 200 copper FMJ rounds through it for the first time. Too tired to clean it that night, I only managed to clean it the following day with the Tetra CLP that came with my cleaning kit. Unfortunately the Tetra CLP didn’t do anything to remove the copper fouling.

Up first was the M-Pro 7 which I emptied into a small clean glass so that I could compare it to the Hoppe’s Elite Gun Cleaner. Sure enough, these products are, IMHO, 100% identical. There are no cleaning instructions on the Hoppe’s bottle, but fortunately M-Pro 7 took care of that department. After the cleaning and a quick rinse in an industrial strength ultra sonic cleaner - also filled with a biodegradable non-toxic cleaning solution – the barrel was rinsed with distilled water. Excess water was blown off with compressed air and then the barrel was dried on a warm air dryer. While the barrel itself was spotless, the copper crud inside the bore hadn’t budged. As it was the end of the day, I decided to let the barrel soak overnight in the M-Pro 7. However, cleaning it the next morning after its all night soak, still didn’t do anything to remove that stubborn copper crud.

Up next was the Gunzilla. They recommend leaving the bore thoroughly soaked for 15 minutes or more if the barrel is really dirty. While my barrel wasn’t that dirty, the copper crud that was there was stubbornly refusing to go. So I let the wet barrel sit for about 4 or 5 hours before giving it a quick clean (with M-Pro 7) and rinsed and dried exactly as above. Once again I was left with a spotlessly clean barrel, but unfortunately, the Gunzilla did nothing to dislodge the copper crud. I could have let it soak overnight, as per their recommendations for stubbornly dirty bores, but I didn’t think the few extra hours would make that much difference.

It was now time to move on to the heavy duty products and see if these specialized bore cleaning products fared any better than the previous two gun cleaners.

First up was Bore Tech’s Eliminator. I closely followed the cleaning instructions on the label, except for increasing the soaking times. After the first sopping wet swab was run through the bore, I let it sit for an hour. After a thorough scrubbing with a tight fitting nylon brush, I let it sit for another 30 minutes. Cleaning and rinsing was exactly the same as mentioned above.

Aha! Now I was actually beginning to get somewhere. Once again the barrel was spotless on the outside, only now the bore was a whole lot cleaner than it was before. Unfortunately it still wasn’t 100% spotless. Still, I was very happy to see that the Bore Tech Eliminator removed about 95% of the copper crud.

Strictly speaking this last part of the comparison isn’t really fair, because now the bore was 95% cleaner than before. Still, I felt it was worthwhile seeing if the Hoppe’s Elite Copper Terminator could remove the last stubborn bits of crud.

Once again I followed the cleaning instructions on the label, and once again I increased the recommended soaking times in order to maximize the effectiveness of the solvent.

Voilà! The bore was now finally 100% perfectly clean. As pristine and as clean as the day it was made.

The next time I go shooting I’ll try the Hoppe’s Elite Copper Terminator first, so that it won’t have the unfair advantage that it had in this test.

I also bought a bottle of Mil-Comm MC25 gun cleaner, but I forgot to use it this time. When I saw that the regular cleaners weren’t making a dent in the copper crud, I was keen to move on to the stronger solvents.

One thing that I should mention is that the barrel, and the bore too of course, is virtually 100% oil and grease free after being cleaned with the M-Pro 7. Unfortunately I forgot to buy some EEZOX, because that is the ideal condition in order to apply this protective coating and highly effective rust preventative. Oh well, next time. In the interim I gave it a light coating of Boeshield T9 and lightly greased the usual contact (and wear) points.

I hope that you guys find this info useful. All comments are welcome.
 
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Very nice review, absolut_beethoven. Well written and easy to follow, and very interesting. I recently bought a Smith & Wesson 642 and after reading the forum dedicated to it, knew I needed to buy a cleaner that contained no ammonia so I settled on the Hoppe's Elite after reading enough convincing posts in favor of it.

Tried it after shooting 100 rounds of factory .38 ammo and haven't really decided yet if I like it or not. I'm used to Hoppe's Number 9 so this odorless stuff doesn't excite me too much, even though I know it's supposed to be better for the pistol. A few more rounds downrange and some more cleaning time with a dirtier gun will probably give me a better idea if I like it or not.

Enjoyable read; let us know how things work out on round #2. Out of curiosity, did you use any of the products to clean the rest of your HK? If so, how'd they stack up for removing the fouling? Be interesting to find out which of the cleaners you thought worked best if such was the case.
 
Nicely written, thanks for the information.

I've been using Mpro7 for all parts of my firearms except the bores and chambers where I use Butch's Bore Shine. Butch's smells strong, so it is strictly a garage only type of solvent. The Mpro7 is in a large pump spray bottle so it is easier to use in those large coverage areas, and it lasts a long time.

Like yourself I prefer the non toxic stuff, so next time I buy some I think I'll opt for the Bore Tech Eliminator.
 
Enjoyable read; let us know how things work out on round #2. Out of curiosity, did you use any of the products to clean the rest of your HK? If so, how'd they stack up for removing the fouling? Be interesting to find out which of the cleaners you thought worked best if such was the case.

Thanks for the thumbs up.

From my limited experience with cleaning the polymer framed guns, specifically, the aforementioned HK and a Walther P99, the rest of the gun wipes clean quite easily with most types of CLP cleaners - i.e. Break Free etc, especially if the parts had a light coating of oil or grease in the first place.

Personally, I wouldn't be too keen to use water based solvents in those hard to reach places like the striker fired guns. Of course, if one were careful to thoroughly rinse the parts in distilled water, followed by a quick dip in 91% alcohol in order to displace any traces of water, then it really shouldn't be a problem.

IMHO, the petroleum based solvents (and the others which all have such delightful odors that our spouses love so much) don't do a better job than these non-toxic ones, but they do achieve the desired results in considerably less time. A small trade off, and well worth it. Hey, if it keeps the wives happy then its gotta be good!
 
In my own tests, I've found it best to alternate between a carbon remover (M-Pro 7 for me) and a copper remover (Sweets 7.62 for me), if you're going to be anal retentive about removing everything from the barrel. But then I'd have to ask why you're trying to clean the barrel down to bare metal. That never made sense to me.
 
In my own tests, I've found it best to alternate between a carbon remover (M-Pro 7 for me) and a copper remover (Sweets 7.62 for me), if you're going to be anal retentive about removing everything from the barrel. But then I'd have to ask why you're trying to clean the barrel down to bare metal. That never made sense to me.

I'm not sure exactly what you mean by "down to bare metal".

If you mean removing all protective nitride and environmental coatings and finishes, then I have no argument with you.

But if you're wondering why I want the barrel as clean as the day it left the factory, i.e. smooth, shiny and no rough crud glued to the grooves, then I'm at a loss for words and perhaps you could explain further as maybe I'm missing something here.

Thanks for your thoughts.
 
Soap and water the original non-toxic solvent

Ok true as it is, it still will not clear up copper and lead. Good read to the OP
 
I've had success with MPRO7 cleaner and copper. It requires a lot of brushing with a metal brush as stated in the instructions. After all, it's just a high-tech soap.

Now they're making a Copper Remover, too:

"Eliminates copper fouling without the use of ammonia or other toxic chemicals.

Up to 4x faster than ammonia-based cleaners

Improves accuracy and reliability

Dissolves copper fouling

Conditions to reduce future fouling

Safe on bore steel (for use inside bore only)

Ammonia and odor free"
 
FWIW, I'm using JB Paste and Kroil to clean copper, moly and carbon crust in bores, and isopropanol as my general solvent. Low hazard, permits me to clean indoors without supplemental ventilation. I'll use patches cut from Miracle Cloth to deal with heavy lead buildup in bores or stainless steel cylinder faces.
 
LOL - too true jerkfac11. But believe it or not, contrary to what my blue state says, my experience with non-toxic solvents prove otherwise. Of course, most of the time these guys don't let the facts get in the way of their opinions!!

rodregier, while Kroil might be non-toxic, although I doubt it as it is petroleum based, it sure has a very strong overpowering odor.

As I mentioned before, I was not only looking for a non-toxic solvent, but one without any strong odor too.
 
I tried the Gunzilla and found it a good solvent and light lube but no effect on metal - copper or lead. The best that I have found for copper (without ammonia or abrasive) is KG-12 - I do not know if it is non-toxic but it has little or no odor and really does a great job. I wish there was a comparable product for lead.
 
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I don't personally find much of a smell w/Kroil. OTHO, my general sense of smell is poor. I wouldn't characterize Kroil as non-toxic, just reduced toxicity.

\\

on non-toxic generally: Heck, you can die from too much water or oxygen, it's just a matter of volume, conditions and application.
 
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