Have you updated your strike plates and screws on the door? These are simple safety enhancements.
The above bears repeating. Replacing the hinges with similar-sized ball-bearing (e.g. captive hinge pins) hinges is also smart.
South Florida had adopted a hurricane code after Andrew
Miami-Dade County has been creating "hurricane codes" since Carla in the 70s. Adoption in the surrounding south Florida Counties has been expanding ever since.
However, there's nothing explicitly in the Code that mandates outswing doors. Other than having to meet air sealing & wind resistance requirements. Which can be met with any number of qualified storm doors and/or storm shutters. It's a series of trade-off, as most things in architecture. Outswing doors have a security onus in having the hinge pins exposed, whic his why the Florida Codes offer so many options for compliance.
The things you learn as a licensed architect can be wide and varied.
I am going to buy screws. What size and length? Picture shows #10. 3 inch screws?
Will this be drilled into the replaceable door frame or the support frame built to the house?
Will depend.
But, most assuredly, you do not want screws in only the casing & frame of the door--that's typically only about 1/2" material at best.
The stud framing around a door ought to be (only ought) be a "jack" stud which supports the header over the door, and a pair of "king" studs next to the jack.
In a 2x4 wall, through the casing, there's about 1/2" (or less) of casing, then 1/2" of drywall, then 3 1/2" of wood stud. Or about 4.5" inches all told.
Rule-of-thumb, you don't want to exceed 5/8 the depth of a member in an edge condition. That's a skosh more than 2" in a 2x4, so a #10 x 3" should be ok, after adding in the thickness of the bracket. Should be.
A #10 might be a touch too fat for 2x material, so, maybe a #8x3" might better suit--and you want to pre-drill to the size specified on the package of screws, as splitting the 2x4 does not much help.
Now, off the casing, and on to wallboard, you have an issue in that the wall board will want to compress as you tighten down on it., so yo may need some fat fender washers to support the load.
In a 2x6 framed wall, you can easily use 4" long screws.
Note that for hinge and strike screws, 3" and 3 1/2" screws are easily uses, as you are perpendicular to the "stack" of lumber in the framing. (Pre-drilling is still recommended for not splitting the wood.)
