Dremel tools

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In a SHTF/TEOTWAWKI situation a good set of files will have more and better applications. They need no power and can everything a Dremel will do, just slowly!

I keep several sets of new files/wood rasps.

Just my opinion..
s
 
Dremel Tool: High-speed rotary cutter/grinder that allows you to ruin a part much quicker than can be done with a file or stone.
 
So the consesus is buy some metal filers instead of a Dremel because there's less potential for error.
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Err... my personal advice (as one who has done both useful work and created lots of damage with Dremels, Foredoms, and files): Figure out what you want to do. Then figure out what tools you need. Referring to files as "metal filers" suggests you should probably do more research.

/rl
 
Ah, the Dremel tool... or it's cousins..

If you want to use a real Dremel, get the kit with the variable speed unit. The one that has a flex-shaft attachment is nice, but most people don't get alot of use for the flex tool - seriously. I've worn out two Dremel or Dremel-type units over the years, and they work pretty well.

For intricate work or action jobs, don't do it! Use hand honing techniques with some hand stones instead and buy a stoning fixture whenever possible, and the Kuhnhausen series of books from Amazon.com or Brownell's is an awesome help too. I can't say enough about Kuhnhausen. God bless him.

DO NOT buy the cordless Dremel stuff. Not enough power, and the battery runs down too fast. If you are willing to spend the money and need heavy duty power, the Foredom tool (which is a flex-tool only kind of setup, with hanging device -available from Brownell's) is the way to go. These are very hard to wear out. They will accept the 1/8" shaft accessories just like the Dremel or similar tools will. There is a learning curve to the accessories - stones, sanding wheels, carbide tips, etc. These type tools are very handy for initial fitting of some 1911 parts (beavertail grip safety, mag well openings, polishing feed ramps, etc. but I would stay away from the trigger, hammer, and sear parts for sure, and also the inside of a S&W revolver with them for sure!
Experiment alot on scrap material before you quickly go after a gun part with them. Good luck, and be careful...
 
I have a corded Sears brand Dremel hanging above my bench. It has the flexible shaft and I never have to move the unit itself, just grab the shaft and change to the needed bit or wheel.

Lots of guys are good with these and do some amazing things I wouldn't try. I wouldn't have reprofiled a knife with it but I have grinders for that - if you got it hot enough to change the color of the steel then the temper is ruined.

As for the high speed being dangerous, it's all I use. I cut 1/8" rod for pin material with the diamond wheel and use Cratex bits for polishing. I'm polishing hardened steel so low speed isn't going to do much. The ability of the user is going to determine how much damage or great work is done.
 
Ditto on the Cratex bits. Easy to polish with, and don't remove too much metal at one time. They're really good!
 
In a former life I was a crown and bridge dental technician. This craft calls for precision ability with a rotary handpiece, knowing which abrasive to use, how much, where, and a sharp eye. As a result, I am not afraid to use a high-quality rotary tool on my guns, but only in areas I know such a tool is useful for. A blanket statement like 'keep 'em away from your guns' is just BS, unless you are just a stone idiot, in which case you shouldn't be handling firearms in the first place.
 
'keep 'em away from your guns' is just BS,

I acknowledge your level of expertise . . . I, too am well-versed with powered rotary grinders (but, I still refuse to use them in gun-related applications, short of wood-work). Howsomever, most folks ARE NOT SO EXPERIENCED! Consider the advice to be appropriate & prudent to those who: a) Have a "project," b) Have ZERO or MINIMAL experience with gunsmithing AND/OR powered grinders, and c) Have a debit card and a Home Depot within driving distance. Qualify your rather rude retort with "if you hose-up your gun, I'll go good for the repairs," and I'll admit to my erroneous advice and buy you a beer.
 
Sorry, but just I blanch at such conventional wisdom and blanket statements that do not take into account that some of us can handle such mechanical challenges. Your point about most folks lacking the proper experience can be extended to firearms themselves. This doesn't stop the unwise or uninitiated, but it sure does educate them. Personally, I've learned more screwing things up than I have getting it right the first time out. And, limitations recede as experience grows. But yes, with such tools, a little does go a long way.
 
drem

the #520 wheel comes in handy for buffing, most kits don't come with one...lowe's and H D don't keep them in stock...i find them on the internet, and buy them a dozen at a time...gpr
 
I use a Dremel on guns all the time. However, I most frequently use the rubber & felt polishing wheels and the wire brush attachments. I use them almost exclusively for cleaning, removing rust from hidden areas and minor polishing.

I occasionally use a cut-off wheel to dress up screw slots or to cut screwdriver slots in broken screws when nothing else works. Gotta be careful doing that, though.

Even less frequently I'll find a use for one of the round sand-paper drums...usually the inside of stocks.

I would say their usefullness lies somewhere between the extremes posted here of "keep them away from your guns" and "I can build an entire precision gun with one".
 
For people who actually LIKE to work on their own guns, and feel the need to learn how to fix parts themselves, a dremel is a must have. If you are removing metal to smooth the trigger and then polish the internals, YOU can do it by hand, I will spend the 30 hours you waste doing it the hard way by shooting and testing said firearm.

And yes I do have a good set of metal files, and I have no idea how I can use a set of even the best wood rasps to stone my hammer. Power or no power.

If you don't feel the need to use tools to work on your own firearm and can afford to send your gun to the smith every time it needs a tune up, more power to you. And when, yes I said when, I screw up a part doing it myself I can just buy a new part or learn how to fix the bad part.

My gun, my tools, my problem.
 
Last comment . . . I recognize the difference between "fast" and "precise." Not fond of "screwing-up" something like an expensive firearm OR buying parts. To each his own . . . I'll continue to err on the conservative side of metal-removal.
 
Wood only

I guess I can only comment on my own lack of skill and not the capabilities of the tool itself. I tried one once on metal. Became an instant psychedelic engraver, without even knowing it.
 
Just remember that if you're freehand grinding and you're right-handed, the darned wheels throw crap right into your eyes.

Wear safety glasses with temple shields.

At least.
 
Dremel is from the debil ..
run it backwards on a primary engagement surface and you'll hear one of his names in latin.

Seriously, they have their place, like any tool.
I've the Dremel Stylus, right handy it is!

.
 
I usually use one of those knurled chucks you can mount in the regular collet to hold the bits (wheels, whatever).

However, the greater length of the tool with this chuck device increases the chances of the tool slipping around on the work.

The trick in not making huge mistakes with it is to "buck" everything you do with your other fingers and resting your hands on your knees or something, again, so you are "bucking" the tendency of the tool to zip around when the wheel touches the surface of the workpiece.

That's kind of hard to describe, but the idea is to hold the thing (as you would when carving with a knife) in a way that sudden changes in thrust, torque, whatever, will be automatically limited by your hands against other surfaces.

Does that make sense? It's just a knack that you have to acquire, I guess.
 
So, does anyone have any recommendations for an all around Dremel? I'm looking for one that accepts the most attachments.
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They're pretty much all the same. I have a 3000 I believe.
 
I don't use a Dremel tool on my guns. If I wanted them to look ugly and not work I'd use my hammer.
 
A Dremel has unlimited uses, they are very handy to have around. Mine is 25 years old and still works fine, although I have been thinking of getting a new one with a flex shaft. When I was poor I used my Dremel to build several book shelves...but a real drill works much better. :)

I did use it to undercut the triggerguards, polish the feedramps and reshape the safeties on two of my 1911s and was very pleased with the results...be careful though, I did the majority of metal removal with the Dremel and finished with files, its very easy to take off too much.
 
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