Drilled and tapped holes, can they be filled?

[mookiie]

I have a Mauser action that has some holes drilled and tapped into it that I am not planning to use. Should they be filled, and how would be the best way to go about it? Screws and locktite?

 

[twofifty]

Brownells has some options.

 

[Jim K]

If you are going to have the receiver reblued, the holes can be welded up and polished down. But if rebluing is not in the picture, the simplest way is to use plug screws, which look OK. Check with a local gunsmith; they often have plug screws taken from new rifles when they mount scopes and will sell them for a nominal price, better than having to buy more than you need from Brownells. I wouldn't use Loctite; the screws won't come out and you might want to remove them some time.

Jim

 

[Shadow 7D]

Plug screws
plug screws and soldered
spot weld and repolished

 

[biggyfries]

For most people plug screws are the answer. If you are inclined you can make plug screws for the rest of your life by aquiring a screw slotting file. Then just get the threaded stock, sometimes at a hardware store, and cut it with a Dremel or a small hacksaw and then file it smooth at both ends and put a slot in it and you are done. You can blue it in a varity of ways if you want.
Learn to do this stuff--it's fun!

 

[Jim K]

Good luck getting 6x48 stock at a hardware store!

Jim

 

[jmorris]

If you are going to have some one TIG weld up the holes be sure to blue some of the filler material after surface prep on a test piece, of you don't want to risk the spotted look.

 

[Chawbaccer]

Taper ream, tap in taper pin, dress off, touch up blue, no ugly threads showing.

 

[Maj Dad]

Loctite

Jim's wisdom notwithstanding (and he does speak wisdom), I have used a small (and I mean small: 1-2 mm diameter) spot of blue loctite (262, I think it is) on little screws like that without making them one with the hole. The operative phrase is "small (and I mean...etc)". You're better off without it if you can't translate "small" into application but it can be effective...
My experience, your mileage may tank...

 

[788Ham]

Midway USA has a Williams "Gunsmith Screw Kit" in their newest flier. 122 piece kit, $29.00, # 454-524. I got a box of them about 2 years ago, comes in handy for things like this. Make sure you use the correct length , then blue LocTite it in place.

 

[Jim K]

I have nothing against Loctite, but it is not usually needed on scope base holes since the screws usually stay in fine and don't vibrate out. But with those holes (assuming they are drilled and tapped OK) the day may come when the owner may want to scope the rifle and there is no point in making the plug screws hard to remove.

Now, if the idea is to fill up the holes to restore the rifle to its original appearance, then welding is about the best way. And, as jmorris noted, use a soft steel rod that will take bluing well and will allow engraving to restore any defaced marking. I have seen more than one rifle with "spots" where holes were filled using a stainless steel rod.

Jim

 

[Zeke/PA]

I have a Mauser action that has some holes drilled and tapped into it that I am not planning to use. Should they be filled, and how would be the best way to go about it? Screws and locktite?

Of course!
Assuming the holes are 6x48, just go to your local Gun Shop and purchase some 6x48 plug screws.

 

[headoftheholler]

I prefer the "positive stop" plug screws over the plain ones