Drilling and tapping a 10/22 receiver for a receiver sight.

[PO2Hammer]

After much frustration with hard to adjust sights and bullet impacts 3" apart @ 50 yards between SV ammo and HV ammo, I plan on D&T my 10/22 for the Williams FP receiver sight.

I had a similar sight years ago on a Rossi 1892 357 and it was a lot of fun being able to adjust with repeatable accuracy for different loads.

Anyway, IIRC, it's a #6-48, but now I can't seem to find that reference anywhere.

Was planning on getting a Hanson carbon #6-48 taper tap because it looks like it will be a through hole, a #31 drill bit and some Tap Magic cutting oil.

I did D&T an Encore barrel once for open sights, but I had a machine shop at my disposal then. I'm looking for a small drill press to drill the hole and guide the tap.

Any advice from the pros?

 

[jmorris]

It will be many times easier than he blind holes in the steel barrel. The receiver is aluminum and as you said a through hole the combination of the two will make that a very small job.

 

[Kp321]

Read the label on the Tap Magic before using it on the aluminum receiver. They make a special formula for aluminum. The old formula, very thin consistency, would attack aluminum.

 

[Jim K]

You CAN drill that receiver without a guide IF you do a good job of setting things up and using a center punch to mark the first hole. If you get the first one right then you tighten the sight down using that screw. Then it is easy to center punch through the other hole in the sight.

Jim

 

[jmorris]

Personally If you don't have a set this would be a great time to get at least a cheap ($11) set of transfer punches.

Many times better than a regular center punch in this application, especially on the holes after the first.

http://t.harborfreight.com/28-piece...577.html?utm_referrer=https://www.google.com/

 

[mtrmn]

MY foolproof sight used the existing holes intended for attaching the scope rail. But the gun is ancient as far as 10/22's go, the new ones may have the scope rail built in now. IDK

 

[PO2Hammer]

Thanks all, I was wondering about the aluminum and the Tap Magic.
The transfer punches are a good idea. I was planning on grinding a regular center punch to fit through the hole in the sight base to act as a transfer punch, but for $11 I might just order a set.

MY foolproof sight used the existing holes intended for attaching the scope rail.

This is a different style FP sight that mounts on the side of the receiver.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/483133/williams-fp-ru-receiver-peep-sight-44-magnum-ruger-carbine-22-long-rifle-10-22-10-22-magnum-96-22-96-22-magnum-and-96-44-aluminum-black

 

[beag_nut]

Quote:"I'm looking for a small drill press to drill the hole and guide the tap."

Is that the advice you are looking for?
If so, how will you use the edge finder, which has not been mentioned yet? Or will you be satisfied with clamping down the sight onto the receiver and then using the transfer punch? If the latter, you could conceivably use a portable drill!
If you go back to your original question, then you'll need a press with at least a 1/2" capacity chuck. Plus, some kind of indexing vise with graduations.

 

[DanLee]

My 10/22 Target came with screw holes for mounting the scope rail. If yours did, I'd be surprised if the Williams FP sight base isn't already configured to take advantage of that fact.

Dan

 

[mtrmn]

DanLee said: "My 10/22 Target came with screw holes for mounting the scope rail. If yours did, I'd be surprised if the Williams FP sight base isn't already configured to take advantage of that fact."

I have already been corrected on that. It seems the "FoolProof" sight mounts to the side of the receiver. Apparently MY sight is a "Guide" receiver sight that DOES mount where the scope rail should go.

 

[Carl N. Brown]

Hopefully unneeded advice: when tightening the mounting screws in aluminum receiver holes do not over torque as I once did.

... bullet impacts 3" apart @ 50 yards between SV ammo and HV ammo ...

As my eyes dry out and my focus on the rear sight notch fuzzies up, I can get huge variations in center of group with the same ammo. I do try to carry a bottle of artificial tears on range trips, but my eyes have no problem finding the center of a peep or ghost ring no matter how dry they become.

 

[Taurus 617 CCW]

Beyond properly drilling and tapping the two critical things to get right are:

1. The proper distance between holes

2. Both holes on center horizontally

To find the distance between the two holes you can use a drill blank of the right size (or gage pin if you have a set). Place a pin in each hole and use your dial calipers to measure the outside to outside dimension. When you get that, measure the diameter of the pin you used in each hole and subtract one full diameter from your spread measurement. This will give you the spread between holes center to center.

To make sure you drill both holes on the same horizontal axis line you need to make sure the receiver is square in your drill press. Assuming that your vise jaws are tall enough on your drill press, you can use a strip of wood to fill in the step on the underside of your receiver and a piece of thin cardboard (like the kind you end up with when your leagal pad is out of paper) on the top side so you don't scratch your finish. I doesn't hurt to scribe a line that is parallel to the bottom of the receiver with a white grease pencil to provide a visual aide when moving your vise.

Last tip, make sure to use a starter drill before going to a drill bit because drill bits can walk and drill a hole off center without a drill spot as a guide.

Hope that helps.

 

[PO2Hammer]

I'm going to clamp the sight base to the receiver where I want it, punch 1 hole with a transfer punch, clamp it in a vice, clamp the vice to the drill press bed (this is my excuse for buying a drill press, don't ruin it for me), drill the first hole, then remove the drill bit from the press and replace it with a pin. The pin follows the top of the tap down as you go (the drill press stays off, obviously) keeping the tap dead square. especially important with the extra fine threads.
Then mount the sight base with 1 screw, punch the other hole, and repeat the tapping process.

 

[PO2Hammer]

Quote:
... bullet impacts 3" apart @ 50 yards between SV ammo and HV ammo ...
As my eyes dry out and my focus on the rear sight notch fuzzies up, I can get huge variations in center of group with the same ammo. I do try to carry a bottle of artificial tears on range trips, but my eyes have no problem finding the center of a peep or ghost ring no matter how dry they become.

Yeah, you gotta' like a good set of peep sights. Especially when they're easily adjustable. I had the Williams guide receiver sight, but adjusting it was a PITA, and it was never really repeatable, and you needed a jeweler's screwdriver. The FP sights are click adjustable and I can upgrade to turret knobs later if I want.

For the front I'm going to use a Lyman globe target front, one of the 17 series. I love the yellow plastic insert. See what I can do with some regulation targets from prone and sitting positions with a sling.

I do like the artificial tears, I try to use them before I leave for the range, but I think I might put a bottle in my range bag now. Plus a serious kit for cleaning my glasses.