dry firing single action rimfires

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roval

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I have a ruger single ten and a single nine. I've dry fired both with the cylinders removed just to see how the firing pin worked. I've had the single ten for 2 yrs and must have had only 500 rounds through it.

Is there any reason I can't dry fire both with the cylinders removed?
 
Put the cylinders back in them.

Ruger says that all of their 22 rimfires are safe to dry-fire.
 
As a general rule I avoid extensive dry firing my guns without snap caps. I will especially avoid dry firing 22 LR guns as some manufacturers advise against it (S&W).

For 22 caliber snap caps go buy a box of plastic dry wall screw anchors. That one box will last for years. I can't remember the size I use, but take a 22 cartridge with you to compare the rim diameter.

Problem solved...

Edmo
 
I don't dry fire my guns often. I hate that CLACK when the hammer falls. I do like to work the action to smooth it out. I just thumb back the hammer, hold it, pull the trigger let it down, repeat.
 
For dry firing my other guns I usually use my snap caps. I read an old post after I had started the thread and somebody mentioned #4 dry wall anchor screws. Will try looking for some.
 
I use a Single Six .22 for dry fire practice rather than my main match cowboy action revolvers. If Murphy's Law happens, I would rather endanger the .22 than my Vaqueros or Old Armies. For Rugers specifically, about the only bad thing that could happen from dry firing would the transfer bar breaking...been known to happen if it was not fitted properly. but that's pretty easy to replace if it does break.
 
I never dryfire rimfires of any kind. Even if the manufacturer says it's okay. I've had to return a New Bearcat to Ruger because the firing pin protrusion was sufficient to peen every chamber to the point that they could not be loaded. It was brand new but apparently had been dryfired extensively in the shop before it was bought for me as a gift.
 
Not sure what number size they are but these dry wall anchors fit perfectly in my .22s, take the firing pin strike on the rim, and even eject from the semi-autos without any problem.

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It was my understanding that any revolver that uses the transfer bar system, whether rimfire or centerfire, was supposed to be safe to dry fire. With that said, I have purchased .22lr dummies or used fired cases just to be on the safe side.

George_P.
 
^^ The dummies aren't for dry-firing if they're made of solid aluminum. They're for loading/unloading drills. Using them for dry-firing may keep the chamber edges from becoming recessed, but they won't stop the pin from peening flatter at the tip.

Drywall anchors work, but must be rotated frequently in the chambers so that the pin edge will have fresh, unflattened "meat" to impact.
 
There's nothing special about the transfer bar that will keep the firing pin from contacting the breech face if the protrusion is sufficient.
 
"... if they're made of solid aluminum ... they won't stop the pin from peening flatter at the tip."

Aluminum is softer than any other metal except lead. A firing pin that will peen from striking aluminum would be a darned poor one.

Jim
 
Yes.
But dummy function test .22 training rounds are not snap-caps.

They are not intended for that.

And are too expensive to use for that.

Dry-wall anchors are the only cost effective .22 snap caps you can buy.

rc
 
I imagine using aluminum dummies as snap caps would destroy them fairly quickly. Plastic anchors work like a charm.
 
I should use snap caps with my Ruger Security-Six...it's such a delicate gun...I just never got around to getting them. Seriously, I didn't know it was okay to dry fire the Ruger Single-Six. The recesses in the chambers have to be deep enough to keep away trom the firing pin, but not so deep so as to adversely affect the ignition of the seated cartridges.
 
Don't dry fire your Heritage Rough Rider single action 22s. You will peen the chambers on them.
You can dry fire the Heritage IF you engage the safety before doing so, as the safety will prevent the hammer from striking the firing pin thus preventing chamber peening.
 
FWIW, I used a Single Six for Bullseye for a couple of years, just for fun. I dry fired it thousands of times w/o problems.
 
My approach to dry-firing revolvers, with or without a transfer bar, is always to try to utilize a pad made of plastic or rubber that can be placed in the hammer channel in the frame so the hammer can fall on it instead of making contact with the firing pin or transfer bar. It prevents wear on the firing pin, firing pin return spring, and firing pin stop pin. It also cushions the shock of the hammer repeatedly hitting the frame. These pads will virtually last forever. The pad needs to be of proper thickness, and can be cut so that it fits tightly in the frame channel and will not fall out while cocking the revolver. If the revolver has a transfer bar, the pad most be properly sized to allow the transfer bar to move up when fired, and the hammer strikes the padded frame and not the transfer bar. Drywall anchors work well, but must be constantly rotated to keep them working properly. The attached photo is one of these pads installed in my GP100. Please excuse the poor quality photo. Also, the rear sight appears to be crooked on my revolver but no worries, it's an optical illusion in the photo.
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I use the 'dummy' .22 in my Sig P229 .22 conversion. The slide doesn't lock back on the last round, so a dummy round in the bottom of the mag is cheap insurance for bad counting.
 
On the Single Six-----the chambers in the cylinder are recessed---the firing pin hits nothing with no chance of peening the breech face.

Dry fire away-------even if you were to damage anything, Ruger will make it right.
 
On the Single Six-----the chambers in the cylinder are recessed---the firing pin hits nothing with no chance of peening the breech face.
Recessed chambers have nothing to do with it. All rimfire revolvers, up until recently, have had recessed chambers (to support the case head) and it does nothing to prevent peening.
 
Right from the New Model Single Six owners manual: Page 16

DRY-FIRING: Going through the actions of cocking, aiming, and pulling the trigger of an unloaded gun is known as “Dry Firing.” It can be useful to learn the “feel” of your revolver. Be certain the revolver is unloaded and that the gun is pointing in a safe direction even when practicing by dry-firing. The Ruger New Model revolvers can be dry-fired without damage to the firing pin or other components.


Right from the Ruger revolver FAQ:

Can I dry fire my Ruger revolver?
Yes. All Ruger revolvers can be dry fired without damage, and dry firing can be useful to familiarize the owner with the firearm. However, be sure any firearm is completely unloaded before dry firing!
 
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