huntingnt
Member
Do you have to size and trim new brass? All that I've ever had before was at least once fired, so I automatically did it.
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Jim Watson
Member
I run new brass though the sizer to round out the case mouth, they often get dented in packing and shipping. Then deburr. I haven't run into over-length new brass to need trimming, but it might be inconsistent enough that a target shooter would trim just to get a batch all the same.
Primersinmyshoe
Member
huntingnt said:
Pistol brass - No
Rifle brass - Yes (well, you don't have to, but it's my SOP, along with deburring the case mouth)
Just my 2¢
The Bushmaster
Member
Treat new brass the same as once fired or twice fired brass. If you are crimping pistol/revolver brass you want to make sure they are reasonably close in length. I try to keep mine within +/- .001-.002 of each other. Another words I trim to the shortest one...Rifle brass should be treated the same except trimming. If they are within the min/max length they should be O K. Again, unless you are crimping them...
Not an inappropriate question at all.....
It's good practice to FL size new brass the first time they are loaded. Over the years I have had two occurances when I didn't run new brass through the sizer die and they didn't fit in the chamber. Now I FL size all brass the first time they are going into my guns.
After they are fire-formed to my gun I neck size only but during the loading process I still check the fitment of the brass to the gun to ensure they will work when finished.
It's good practice to FL size new brass the first time they are loaded. Over the years I have had two occurances when I didn't run new brass through the sizer die and they didn't fit in the chamber. Now I FL size all brass the first time they are going into my guns.
After they are fire-formed to my gun I neck size only but during the loading process I still check the fitment of the brass to the gun to ensure they will work when finished.
You know, that is an interesting question. You say tomato and I say tomahto, imho. The reason I say this is the factories at one time - don't know if they still do - sold PRIMED brass.
I've only bought rifle brass a couple of times but it worked like a champ with just loading em up. I did take my deburring tool and debur the mouths, though, which also straightens out any dings in the mouth at the same time.
Never had a problem with them not chambering. YMMV
I've only bought rifle brass a couple of times but it worked like a champ with just loading em up. I did take my deburring tool and debur the mouths, though, which also straightens out any dings in the mouth at the same time.
Never had a problem with them not chambering. YMMV
caz223
Member
You CAN resize without depriming just take out your decapping stem.
Also, I have NEVER trimmed ANY pistol brass, new or used, so you're prolly fine. I've been loading for a lot of calibers, and for over 10 years with very few problems.
As far as running new brass through your whole process, of course.
I've got a progressive, so it's no extra work for me, but I sometimes resize/deprime, clean, prime, THEN store in baggies, so obviously, I wouldn't want to upstroke deprime those....
I have seen BRAND NEW pistol brass with no flash hole, so I'd definately make sure you got good stuff by running it through your whole process.....
Also, I have NEVER trimmed ANY pistol brass, new or used, so you're prolly fine. I've been loading for a lot of calibers, and for over 10 years with very few problems.
As far as running new brass through your whole process, of course.
I've got a progressive, so it's no extra work for me, but I sometimes resize/deprime, clean, prime, THEN store in baggies, so obviously, I wouldn't want to upstroke deprime those....
I have seen BRAND NEW pistol brass with no flash hole, so I'd definately make sure you got good stuff by running it through your whole process.....
TooTaxed
Member
I've never trimmed pistol brass. But all new brass is run through the sizing die in my reloading process...
Check for case length with a dial caliper AFTER resizing, not before! It's primarily the resizing process that lengthens cases...
Check for case length with a dial caliper AFTER resizing, not before! It's primarily the resizing process that lengthens cases...
The Bushmaster
Member
Tootaxed...Just curious...How do you get away with not trimming...Oh. Say. .357 magnum brass. Reason I ask is because not only do they manufacture and sell case trimmers for this perpose for a reason, but also I have a problem keeping my brass in uniform length for proper crimping and keeping the brass from being over maximum length. Now I know that 9X19 and .45ACP and other auto cases require no trimming because they rarely even reach maximum length, but revolver cases tend to stretch when fired and being resized....38 Special tend to move around a bit and require some trimming to keep them at a uniform length for proper crimping...
caz223...Yup...You can resize straight wall cases without the decapping pin, but if memory serves me here, bottle neck cases require the decapping pin ball to pass back through the neck to return it to its proper inside diameter. You would have to break the pin off the resizing ball and purchase a new decapper or purchase a special die that has just the ball and no decapping pin...
caz223...Yup...You can resize straight wall cases without the decapping pin, but if memory serves me here, bottle neck cases require the decapping pin ball to pass back through the neck to return it to its proper inside diameter. You would have to break the pin off the resizing ball and purchase a new decapper or purchase a special die that has just the ball and no decapping pin...
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Bushmaster, I think the .357 is the one case that should be checked and/or trimmed every 2 or 3 firings. Some of it wll stretch just enough enough to keep your crimp from being uniform on all cartridges. This doesn't seem to affect case life though as far as I can tell.
The Bushmaster
Member
Hi Bakert...I'm not having the problem...I've always measured my cases for length and trimmed to +/- .001 to .002 to insure a even and proper crimp. The exception being my 9mmX19 and .45 ACP cases and .30-06. .30-30 is the same procedure. Must be within +/- .001 to .002 to insure a proper and even crimp from one cartridge to another.
But thank you for confirming what I already know...
But thank you for confirming what I already know...
Carl N. Brown
Member
When I bought new Winchester brass in 30-30, I found
I had to trim (some cases were too long) and had to
flare the mouth to get rid of dents and necksize. In other
words, it does not hurt to treat new brass for handloading
the same as old brass for reloading..
I had to trim (some cases were too long) and had to
flare the mouth to get rid of dents and necksize. In other
words, it does not hurt to treat new brass for handloading
the same as old brass for reloading..
I measure any lot of pistol brass (usually lot of 100 or 500) I buy (or am given) and sort it by length to see what the heck they sent. Usually the vast majority will be .002 longer than minimum trim length (I am using a recent example, .45 ACP I will trim to .890). Anything shorter than minimum I toss. From minimum to my chosen trim length I'll throw in a "Shorty" coffee can and use to plink.
Much of my reloading is with Gold Dots. I treat these as someone loading match ammo for rifle. I may really need them to go boom one day. The others I use for practice with FMJs can only profit from this treatment. I don't shoot at a rate that prevents me from doing this. YMMV
Much of my reloading is with Gold Dots. I treat these as someone loading match ammo for rifle. I may really need them to go boom one day. The others I use for practice with FMJs can only profit from this treatment. I don't shoot at a rate that prevents me from doing this. YMMV
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