I recently purchased a Keltec P-11. It had rust spots on the slide within the first week. I wanted to use this as a carry gun and as such I wasn't really concerned about a perfect finish but I don't want rust. I sent the slide back to Kel-Tec they are fixing the finish but I'm wondering if maybe I should just go ahead and put a more durable finish on it once I get it back. I'm thinking about Duracoat-Durabake it looks fairly simple-not a lot of special equipment required & not overly expensive. Has anyone used this product anyone got any experience or tips? Also should I buy their degreaser or can I get away with using denatured alcohol?
Duracoat/Durabake Question
- Thread starter Mike J
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Taurus 617 CCW
Member
I did a durabake finish on my thompson contender barrel. I wasn't completely satisfied with the finish. It took almost two months for the finish to completely harden after I cured it in the oven. Maybe it was due to the durabake being old. It will adhere to the metal best if you can sandblast the surface first. I use non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner to wipe down the surface prior to application. Make sure you wear gloves before applying the brake cleaner.
It keeps your prints off the barrel after you clean it and it also protects you from the chemicals. Hope that helps.
It keeps your prints off the barrel after you clean it and it also protects you from the chemicals. Hope that helps.
I have used the Durocoat on 3 different model 1911's. I used the "Matte-Black and OD Green" colors. I was very satisfied with the end results. It was very forgiving and easy to use.
The main thing is to prepare the metal as Durocoat recommends and you will good to go.
The main thing is to prepare the metal as Durocoat recommends and you will good to go.
dagger dog
Member
I Dura-Coated a SIG 226, the instruction said to use laquer thinner as a thinner and degreaser.
If you are using a disposable aerosol sprayer make sure to thin the Duracoat and spray several light coats. I didn't thin it enough and it was too thick in several areas and caused a failure to return to battery.
The best way to spray is with a air brush, and several very thin coats. You may want to glass bead blast the surface,(which I did to my SIG), to give the Duracoat a good base.
If you are using a disposable aerosol sprayer make sure to thin the Duracoat and spray several light coats. I didn't thin it enough and it was too thick in several areas and caused a failure to return to battery.
The best way to spray is with a air brush, and several very thin coats. You may want to glass bead blast the surface,(which I did to my SIG), to give the Duracoat a good base.
doc540
Member
re: duracoat
before
after
Nuthin' to it. degrease it, shoot it, let it cure
******d it with carb cleaner, washed it down with denatured alcohol, mixed it according to directions, loaded up the airbrush and sprayed several coats on it
then baked it on low for about an hour
before
after
Nuthin' to it. degrease it, shoot it, let it cure
******d it with carb cleaner, washed it down with denatured alcohol, mixed it according to directions, loaded up the airbrush and sprayed several coats on it
then baked it on low for about an hour
NCsmitty
Member
The best way to alleviate the rusting problem is to sand blast the steel parts, clean thoroughly with brake cleaner and then do a parkerizing treatment, dry, clean, then lay on some thin coats of epoxy Duracoat. I let the metal warm in the sun for a short time prior to spraying with the air brush and you get nearly instantaneous adhesion with no runs. Dries to the touch in an hour and the longer it cures the harder it gets.
The same folks who make Duracoat also have an easy to use Zinc parkerizing solution.
You end up with a firearm that's nearly impervious to weather.
All of my Mauser conversions have received this treatment and I'm very pleased with the durability. Much less prone to surface scratches than a blued unit.
NCsmitty
The same folks who make Duracoat also have an easy to use Zinc parkerizing solution.
You end up with a firearm that's nearly impervious to weather.
All of my Mauser conversions have received this treatment and I'm very pleased with the durability. Much less prone to surface scratches than a blued unit.
NCsmitty
gpr
Member
i have gun kotted several carring kel tec's...it holds up well...must be clean before applying....i have a little sand blaster, then the brake kleen...think one step ahead to keep it clean while working on it...gpr
j21blackjack
Member
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- Jan 10, 2009
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I vote for moly resin, I've used it to refinish 3 guns including my P11 and P3AT slides. Just clean, airbrush, and bake. They only have 6 colors I think, but unless you want to do something crazy it's great.
I finished the 1911 completely, and just the slides on the Kel-Tecs. The Glock is there so it doesn't feel left out.
I finished the 1911 completely, and just the slides on the Kel-Tecs. The Glock is there so it doesn't feel left out.
shibby
Member
wow duracoat really did great work on that revolver's handle 
Thanks everyone for your posts. That revolver turned out purty doc 540. j21 blackjack those Kel-Tecs look something like what I was thinking of doing. Nice Job. Ya'all have given me a lot to think about before I decide which way to go with this. Thanks for all the information.
doc540
Member
"wow duracoat really did great work on that revolver's handle"
Came out nice, didn't it?
That process is called DuraBadger.
Came out nice, didn't it?
That process is called DuraBadger.
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