duracoat, gunkote, painting?

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asahrts

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i know i've seen somewhere a post about a company that would do this for you(and gundoc isn't working anymore), but i can't find it after a couple days of searching. i've been thinking about it for a couple different guns, but i don't think i'm up to the task myself.

any recommendations would be great.

thanks!
 
Look up Roguard and np3. They put finishes on guns and are supposed to be really well done and tough. I have had no experience with them but have heard nothing bad about them. The last time I looked they were about to announce a new price list so I'm sure the prices are higher now.
 
Duracote - Plus: looks really nice and is durable. Minus: Expensive and a pain to apply (disregard the application part if you are having somebody else do it). You are stuck with that pattern/colors.

Krylon - Plus: very easy to apply (way easier than you may think), conceals just as well if not better than Duracote, can easily and quickly change colors/patterns. Minus: wears off (but is super easy to touch up).

Basically - if you want rifle that's pleasing to the eye (and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that) and that you don't have to touch up once in while, Duracote is what you are looking for. If you want a rifle that's difficult for the eye to see in many different seasons and environments, Krylon rattle-can is the answer.
 
I've found that a 50/50 mixture of flat black and satin black KG Gun Kote, applied to a well-prepped surface, and "baked" for an hour afterward provides a durable finish that matches many factory blue finishes very nicely. I was previously using black oxide finish and anodized aluminum on some rifle accessories I produce, but I've now moved exclusively to KG because the results have been so impressive. One buddy gave me his badly neglected rusty Colt Commander for a complete refinish, and it looked like new when finished. KG impresses me as a very good product.
 
You might look at brownells for their alumahyde. I used it on an old beater H&R single shot 410 for my nephew and it turned out great. So far it has held up pretty well. I let it cure for a couple of weeks before use.
 
What about cerakote, how does that compare with the OP's options?
 
..."Krylon - Plus: very easy to apply (way easier than you may think), conceals just as well if not better than Duracote, can easily and quickly change colors/patterns. Minus: wears off (but is super easy to touch up)."...

+1, with emphasis on:

..."can easily and quickly change colors/patterns."...

also, the army has tested painted firearms and found that very little heat transfer loss is caused by same.

gunnie
 
http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/Bro...ategoryId=11335&categoryString=649***10400***

Honestly I bought a $10 airbrush from an auto parts store and a toaster oven from Salvation army thrift store and did it myself with KG Gun Kote. It's a good finish and much better than spray paint. Read up on it and understand that if you are willing to work on it, you can get professional results for less than the pro cost.
 
Check this guy out. I have been on a forum with him for quite a while and he has an outstanding repetition for taking care of his friends and customers. I don't have a website for him, it's not ready yet, but you can contact him from this link.

He also can do laser engraving on whatever you want. He has some pictures of his work on that board, but you might have to look.

http://www.primalrights.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=563&p=9594&hilit=duracoat#p9594
 
Try Conlee Custom Camo!

I recently got my AR duracoated by the people at Conlee Custom Camo. It's proven extremely durable and gotten its share of raised eyebrows.

I did an article on the company and the process in the magazine I work for. I THINK it was in the January issue...it's online at HuntX3.com if you're interested.

I will say though, that I don't think I'd have been able to do this on my own.

ConleeAReSmall.jpg


Check them out at www.CustomGunCamo.com!

Josh
 
.."Krylon - Plus: very easy to apply (way easier than you may think), conceals just as well if not better than Duracote, can easily and quickly change colors/patterns. Minus: wears off (but is super easy to touch up)."...

Durability is increased 100% with the use of matte clear over the color. I tested that on an expensive aluminum screen door, shot it a different color with matte clear on top. It stood up to four teenagers for three years with no loss of color on the high points.

On the other hand, krylon with wear patterns breaks up the outline even more.

I plan on spraying my 6.8 build, the hard part is Krylon doesn't make Foliage Green. Yet. The rest of the furniture already is. Lucky me, I work at an auto parts house with a paint department. A half pint of matched color is an everyday thing. Using small smooth foam roller on very dry, I might be able to preserve the rollmarking in black.

POF is now offering FG anodizing on their piston gun. Maybe Rem/bushmaster will get the hint, some of us don't want licensed treeflage. Home dipping film kits are rumored on the market now.
 
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i would go with the lauer finish. the guncoat is awesome but a pain in the but since you have to preheat the spray. the duracoat you can take some brake cleaner to your parts and let dry. spray it on and in an hour you can handle it and put it together in 24hrs. i have do 3 rifles with it and am goin to do a 3rd this weekend. its an awsome product. you can get the duracoat sl and its self lubricating so it doesnt mess with slide function.
 
What about cerakote, how does that compare with the OP's options?
Cerakote is one of the best and most expensive of these type of products. I've looked into all of them and Cerakote is the one I would choose because of it's hardness, durability and self lubricating properties but any will work fine if properly applied.
 
Redid the AK (Arsenal SLR107FR) after the factory paint had an unfortunate ending.

Color is HK semigloss black and it was appied over the factory parkerizing. The duracoat has developed some wear on the high points and were metal runs on metal. Overall I would rate the duracoat as being less durable than parkerizing, but it doesn't require a dip in boiling acid either.

Parts after painting.
IMG_1583.jpg

Left.
IMG_1585.jpg

Right.
IMG_1586.jpg

Closeup of safety selector mark.
IMG_1587.jpg

BSW
 
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