Duracoating a Keltec

[Yo Mama]

I was thinking of a project, and Duracoating has been on the back burner for some time for me, as I fear messing up a fine gun.

From what I can tell, Duracoating a 1911 would be the easiest as you can detail strip a 1911 and only do the parts needed, which I believe would be the frame and slide, and no other internals.

However, really I need my Keltec to get a treatment as I pocket carry and have concerns for rusting (crummy blue that came with it sucks)

1. Can I not remove internals for the keltec, and still have no problems with baking? Will the heat be enough to do harm to these items?

2. How hard is the spraying of the Duracoat? I get the picture of an uneven application and that I ruin it. They sell spray versions that you don't need an airbrush so I've been looking at these.

3. Worst case, can I remove the finish if needed easily?

 

[gb6491]

The Kel Tec frame is covered by the grips and is alloy. Most of the barrel is covered by the slide. So, probably, only the slide would need to be done (though you could easily do the barrel).

Which model do you have?
To remove the slide internals:
On the PF9 and the second generation P3AT and P32, removing the cap screw that holds the extractor spring in place allows you to remove the spring, extractor, firing pin and spring. On the P11 and first generation P3AT and P32s, there is a screw (on top of the slide) that holds the firing pin and spring in place. A pin holds the extractor and spring in place. The sights on the PF9 and P11 are plastic. The front is melted in place. The rear on the PF9 is held in place by a screw. The P11 is dovetailed in. Dura Coat should not hurt them, but you might want to test that or remove them (you'll need a replacement font if you do). They would have to removed for bake on finishes.

I don't think you need to bake Dura-Coat.

Most paint finishes require that the part being painted be abrasive blasted as part of preparation.

Abrasive blasting is how the finish is removed as well, though some have said commercial paint strippers will remove some of them.

For a better finish, blast, parkerize and paint is recommended.

I had real good results with Dupli Color High Temp (1500 Deg.) Ceramic paint ($6) over fresh parkerizing on my P32.

Regards,
Greg

 

[Yo Mama]

Thanks for the reply. I have the p3at and pf9. That screw is in there good, and i'm always worried as they warn you can really screw it up if you don't get it back in right. Maybe I've been over-worried on this.