shattered00
Member
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2005
- Messages
- 200
I want to try this method before any of the Ballistol or Blue Wonder etc. This method seems much safer on the blueing since no steel wool is needed. First, here is the info I have so far.
Courtesy of Tinkerer:
"You can remove rust from metal using electrolysis, and it will not harm the bluing. The main advantage to this method is it gets all the rust in hard to reach places. You will need:
· A plastic container that will hold the part and electrolysis solution.
· Steel rod. DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL AS THIS WILL PRODUCE HARMFUL BYPRODUCTS.
· Water
· Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (not baking soda. Washing soda can be found in your local grocery store with the laundry detergents. If you cannot find washing soda, pour some baking soda {sodium bicarbonate} into a pan and heat it over low-medium heat. Water and carbon-dioxide will cook-off leaving washing soda {sodium carbonate}.)
· Battery charger or other high amperage power supply.
Cautions:
· Please wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with this solution as it is very alkaline and can cause irritation.
· Do NOT use stainless steel for the electrode as this will produce harmful byproducts.
· The electrolysis process breaks down water into its component parts, Hydrogen and Oxygen, which can be explosive. Work outside or in a very well ventilated area.
· Be sure your battery charger/power supply is unplugged before attaching or touching the leads.
In the container, mix 1 tablespoon of washing soda for each gallon of water to make up your solution. Be sure the washing soda is thoroughly dissolved. Place a steel rod (do NOT use stainless steel) either through the part to be cleaned (use o-rings to prevent the part from touching the rod), or place numerous rods around the inside of your container. Connect these rods with wire; these will be the anode. You must be sure that the part to be cleaned is not touching the rod(s). Suspend the part in the solution with steel cable or wire so that it makes a good electrical contact with the part; this will become the cathode. Connect the negative lead (black) to the part being cleaned (either to the part itself, or to the suspending cable or wire), and connect the positive (red) lead to the rod(s), then plug in the charger. You will immediately begin to see bubbles; this is Hydrogen and Oxygen as the water breaks down. Allow the part to "cook" for 3-4 hours. The time is dependent on the size of the part, amount of rust, and the current of the power supply. After you remove the part, immediately clean and dry it off, then coat it with a good quality gun oil or rust preventative oil."
Also more info from here: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1695
I had posted this in the rifle section, but that was another folly of mine. I figured it would get more hits here.
I just have a few questions. I rarely do things like this myself, so this is a big task for me. Talk to me as if you were explaining this stuff to a person who has an IQ of 70.
1)The article says a carbon or graphite rod would work best. Where in the world would I find either of these?
2)Is Rebar considered a steel rod?
3)How many rods should I use since I have quite a bit of barrel to have rust removed from?
4)Would copper wire work okay or would it create hazardous byproducts?
5)When I tie the wire around the rod, should I wrap it around just a few times or as much as the wire length allows?
6)Do I need multiple wires wrapped around the barrel since the barrel is around 30 inches long?
7)When it says to "suspend the part to be cleaned," what could I tie the barrel to? It says that the area above and around it must be open or an explosion could occur, so I don't see how I am going to suspend this barrel in the water...
If you do respond, you can just say #1 and your answer so that you don't have to copy and paste the entire question.
Apologies for the multitude of questions.
Courtesy of Tinkerer:
"You can remove rust from metal using electrolysis, and it will not harm the bluing. The main advantage to this method is it gets all the rust in hard to reach places. You will need:
· A plastic container that will hold the part and electrolysis solution.
· Steel rod. DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL AS THIS WILL PRODUCE HARMFUL BYPRODUCTS.
· Water
· Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (not baking soda. Washing soda can be found in your local grocery store with the laundry detergents. If you cannot find washing soda, pour some baking soda {sodium bicarbonate} into a pan and heat it over low-medium heat. Water and carbon-dioxide will cook-off leaving washing soda {sodium carbonate}.)
· Battery charger or other high amperage power supply.
Cautions:
· Please wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with this solution as it is very alkaline and can cause irritation.
· Do NOT use stainless steel for the electrode as this will produce harmful byproducts.
· The electrolysis process breaks down water into its component parts, Hydrogen and Oxygen, which can be explosive. Work outside or in a very well ventilated area.
· Be sure your battery charger/power supply is unplugged before attaching or touching the leads.
In the container, mix 1 tablespoon of washing soda for each gallon of water to make up your solution. Be sure the washing soda is thoroughly dissolved. Place a steel rod (do NOT use stainless steel) either through the part to be cleaned (use o-rings to prevent the part from touching the rod), or place numerous rods around the inside of your container. Connect these rods with wire; these will be the anode. You must be sure that the part to be cleaned is not touching the rod(s). Suspend the part in the solution with steel cable or wire so that it makes a good electrical contact with the part; this will become the cathode. Connect the negative lead (black) to the part being cleaned (either to the part itself, or to the suspending cable or wire), and connect the positive (red) lead to the rod(s), then plug in the charger. You will immediately begin to see bubbles; this is Hydrogen and Oxygen as the water breaks down. Allow the part to "cook" for 3-4 hours. The time is dependent on the size of the part, amount of rust, and the current of the power supply. After you remove the part, immediately clean and dry it off, then coat it with a good quality gun oil or rust preventative oil."
Also more info from here: http://www.shopfloortalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1695
I had posted this in the rifle section, but that was another folly of mine. I figured it would get more hits here.
I just have a few questions. I rarely do things like this myself, so this is a big task for me. Talk to me as if you were explaining this stuff to a person who has an IQ of 70.
1)The article says a carbon or graphite rod would work best. Where in the world would I find either of these?
2)Is Rebar considered a steel rod?
3)How many rods should I use since I have quite a bit of barrel to have rust removed from?
4)Would copper wire work okay or would it create hazardous byproducts?
5)When I tie the wire around the rod, should I wrap it around just a few times or as much as the wire length allows?
6)Do I need multiple wires wrapped around the barrel since the barrel is around 30 inches long?
7)When it says to "suspend the part to be cleaned," what could I tie the barrel to? It says that the area above and around it must be open or an explosion could occur, so I don't see how I am going to suspend this barrel in the water...
If you do respond, you can just say #1 and your answer so that you don't have to copy and paste the entire question.
Apologies for the multitude of questions.