Enfield stock removal...HELP!!!

[PAC 762]

I have a No 4 Mk1 I bought in fair condition for a refurb project. I cannot for the life of me get the butt stock off. After spraying WD40 down the hole and letting it sit overnight to penetrate, I viced the rifle and used a giant craftsman screwdriver and channel locks. I actually bent the brand new screw driver!!!

Has anyone run into a similar problem? The hole is too deep for and impact wrench.

 

[Ian]

I didn't have a problem taking mine off, but it wasn't as tight as yours sounds. Also, I used a "screwdriver" made of half-inch steel stock specifically made for Enfield stocks...

 

[PAC 762]

The screwdriver I have is 1/4", I believe. Where does one purchase an Enfield sprcific screwdriver?

 

[effengee]

Enfield specific screwdivers...

Any good auto parts retailer has the 1/2" ridiculously large flat-blade.
Sears Craftsmen are lifetime guaranteed. Just don't tell them you were working on a gun with it...
The inside screw on the gun won't really ever get seen by anybody but the likes of us, and it seems safe to assume it's not a museum piece...
The main difference between the gunsmith's driver and any other is the shape of the point. Any given automotive screwdriver has a Vee-shaped point ending in a small flat edge. >
The gunsmith ones are the exact same thickness for about 1/4" so that they won't mar the heads of the screws. >-
That stock may have swelled and the screw may be rusty.
Try another lubricant like PB blaster or a type with an anti rust catalyst.

http://p077.ezboard.com/fparallaxscurioandrelicfirearmsforumsfrm49

This is the web forum for an internet buddy of mine who revamped the old Lee-Enfield forum... Everything you never knew you never knew about the venerable old S.M.L.E. series of firearms... They're good people...

 

[PAC 762]

Thanks!

I'm going to go return my busted 1/4" screwdriver and pic up the biggest one I can find. I'll also try some PB Blaster or liquid wrench or something to that effect.

 

[PAC 762]

I got it. Liquid wrench is amazing! I sprayed some on and let it soak for less than a minute and the bolt came right out using a screwdriver and wrench. I didn't even need to vice it.

 

[Skofnung]

Just out of curiosity, did you remove the forestock first?

 

[PAC 762]

No. I'm following the directions on surplusrifle.com. I'm currently struggling to get the fore-end off.

 

[swingset]

Removing the forestock first is only a requirement of the No1 rifles, not the No4.

The foreend will likely require tapping off. Use a piece of soft wood to place against the rear of the forend once it's completely disassembled, and gently tap with a mallet until it pops off. They can be stubborn.

 

[effengee]

liquid wrench is worth it's weight in gold...

The stuff is just plain amazing when it comes to removing rust...
Repeated soakings would allow bolts on the Titanic to be hand-removed.
The stocks on my 1917 SMLE #1Mk.3* were quite troublesome, too.
Prodigious use of liquid wrench was indispensible.
Take your time and NEVER force anything.
This is definately not a case where a bigger hammer will help.
Good luck on the project. Keep us posted...
Jimbo

 

[longrifleman]

Liquid Wrench is good. KryOil is better!

 

[Mk VII]

Enfield stock bolts are often rusted in place and considerable effort can be needed to move them. The proper tool fits into a bit-and-brace and has a brass bushing (o.d. 0.725") behind the blade to keep it square to the slot.

 

[PAC 762]

Thanks everyone for the help. I posted an entension to this on the gunsmith forum with a new problem: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=94930

This project is not going too smoothly.