Ever have recoil lengthen your OAL?

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gspn

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I went to the range Sunday with reloads for my .357, 41, and 44 mags. Each of them at some point had the cylinder stick hard enough that the action of the gun couldnt rotate it to the next cylinder.

If i used my hand i could "help" turn it and then it worked fine. Im wondering if i need to use more crimp. Have you ever had bullets "lengthen" from reoil while in the gun?
 
That is why revolvers use a roll crimp in a cannelure on the bullet. Happens the other way in a pistol.

Yes, a little more roll crimp.
 
Sounds like your affraid to really crimp those rounds. A heavier crimp should solve your problem.

Jim
 
Not ony do you need crimp, but make sure you are not expanding your mouth too much - just enough flare to get the bullet seated w/o tearing the case. Over expand the mouth and no amount of crimp will hold with a heavy load.
 
Yep...just need to tighten it up some. Im crimpimg in the cannelure now...and these are moderate loads being shot through fairly heavy pistols(ruger blackhawk, s&w 586, and s&w mod 29).

Ill just make an adjustment and go from there. Thanks to all for the help.
 
I would double check the primers as well. They may not be seated fully which would cause the cylinder to bind up. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt.
 
No body has mentioned this yet, but you need more crimp:neener:

I tried pulling some loads with an inertia hammer, and the lead core came out of the jacket(JSP), while the jacket stayed crimped in the case:eek:

Wasn't overly crimped either, a good roll crimp goes along way.....
 
the cylinder stick hard enough that the action of the gun couldnt rotate it to the next cylinder.

If i used my hand i could "help" turn it and then it worked fine.
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All 3 firearms, Really? 3 different die sets, your really think its crimp? :D Look else where, like dirt under the extractors.
 
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why would you rule out insufficient crimp? same person used the same crimping technique to handload for 3 different guns. definitely sounds like it's worth investigating to me.
 
If i used my hand i could "help" turn it and then it worked fine. Im wondering if i need to use more crimp. Have you ever had bullets "lengthen" from reoil while in the gun?
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Did you verify that the bullets had indeed moved and lengthened the OAL enough to stick the gun? Its pretty easy to verify if you remove the one that stuck from the gun and verify that is for sure what is happening.

Yes, it can happen. Heavy recoil can pull bullets. Yes, other things can make a gun sitck.
 
As a side note but along the same vein:

Some rifles require just as much crimp as revolvers...These are rounds removed from the mag of a Marlin 1894S that had a few rounds fired (4 IIRC), then was unloaded:

opbkv4.jpg

The bullets in the rounds on the left and right have been set back by the slamming in the tubular magazine under recoil...The one on the right is the 'worst'...
 
Do a search on "Crimp jump"

James2 said:
Did you verify that the bullets had indeed moved and lengthened the OAL enough to stick the gun? Its pretty easy to verify if you remove the one that stuck from the gun and verify that is for sure what is happening.

Yes, it can happen. Heavy recoil can pull bullets. Yes, other things can make a gun sitck.
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You don't even have to remove the cartridge from the chamber. It is easy to tell if it is crimp jump that is the problem. If the bullet nose is sticking out of the front of the cylinder and hitting the back end of the barrel or the cylinder crane, it is crimp jump. If not, you might still have crimp jump, but that is not what is binding up your cylinder.

I have jumped crimp a few times. I have always been able to push the bullet back into the case with my finger.

The lighter the gun, the heavier the bullet and the more powerful the load, the more it is likely to happen, so tighter neck tension and heavier crimp is indicated.

Do a search on "Crimp jump"

Lost Sheep
 
Way back when I first started rolling my own I had a SBH 44 mag. lock up tight because the bullets were jumping up and causing the cylinder to bind.

But of course I was using 296 powder charges too, which we know is the magnum powder, of magnum powders, for magnum wheel guns. It only happened to me once before I learned the difference between a taper crimp and a roll crimp, and why a roll crimp is necessary in revolver loading as a general rule of thumb.


GS
 
I have jumped crimp a few times. I have always been able to push the bullet back into the case with my finger.
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"First make sure you have plenty of neck tension."

Without proper neck tension to start with, we are asking too much of the crimp.
 
When applying more crimp, be careful. If not applied correctly or located in the wrong place on the bullet, as in not in the cannelure or crimp groove, the crimp will bulge the case mouth and the round will probably not fit the chamber.

Otherwise, good information already posted that I cannot add to.
 
All I can do with neck tension is talk about it, but when it comes to bullet hold I can measure it it pounds. When loading pistol there is no such thing as too much crimp, and I am the fan of the standard, transfer and verifying. Purchase a new, factory, over the counter round, pull the bullet, while pulling the bullet try to determine the amount of effort required to pull the bullet, then look at the neck tension chart:) or do something more particle like determine the amount of effort is pounds, I do not have a neck tension chart, bullet hold is a different standard.

F. Guffey
 
A pic of your set up for pulling bullets and getting the pounds of force required would be interesting. Do you just use something like a fish scale .etc,.
 
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