Excessive endplay with a GP100?

[Bentley8]

I picked up my first revolver at the Greensboro Gun Show on Saturday. It's a used short shroud 4" stainless steel DAO GP100 with a fixed sight. It's not a Century import. It looks like it was imported by IAC (Interarms) in Billerica, MA so I think it came from the Canadian police. Ennywhoo.

It seemed nice and tight at the show, no endplay, eyeballed the cylinder gap and it was good. Just a little cylinder play, a few tiny nicks and scratches, but for about $275 OTD, I figured it would be a good buy.

Got it home and cleaned it up well, knocking out a fair amount of old oil and grime. I used extra fine scotchbrite to polish out the tiny nicks on the outside of the frame and barrel. I think it looks fantastic.

Trigger is pretty smooth with a gradually increasing pull until it seems to slightly catch right before the break. With a little dry-fire practice I was pulling it back to that sweet spot and dropping the hammer with just a little bit of pressure, somewhat like a single action. Nice, but a little bit heavy.

After I got it back together I found out that there was some measurable endplay. I think with the old goop in there the cylinder didn't have as much room to move. Now, with the cylinder moved all the way forward, I've got a cylinder gap of 0.004", with it moved all the way back it's 0.008". Is 0.004" play too much?

And how much cylinder gap is considered excessive? I checked all the cylinders for gap and with one cylinder it opened up to 0.009", all the others had a maximum of 0.008".

There was also a little cylinder play, but just a smidgen. I eyeballed the timing and it didn't look like it was moving more than 0.001" or so. Hard to tell exactly how much, really.

Haven't had a chance to get it to the range. I don't want to shoot it if the endplay is excessive. Wouldn't that movement cause the cylinder to hammer back into the frame with each shot?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I'm somewhat new to revolvers having spent most of my time and money on 1911's and other pistols.

Oh, and here's a hastily taken, badly lighted photo...

 

[Feanaro]

After I got it back together I found out that there was some measurable endplay. I think with the old goop in there the cylinder didn't have as much room to move. Now, with the cylinder moved all the way forward, I've got a cylinder gap of 0.004", with it moved all the way back it's 0.008". Is 0.004" play too much?

I don't know what the acceptable range of endplay is, so I can't be sure if that's alright. But, do you have to push and hold the cylinder back to get that? If so, it may be nothing. If it moves back and forth without any resistance, it could be bad.

 

[Old Fuff]

You might check with Ruger, but I think their standards for cylinder end-shake are... well... generous to say the least. Anyway .004" end-shake is not out of tolerance, where .008" cylinder gap is getting close. If the end-shake was corrected you'd end up with .004" barrel/cylinder gap, which would be fine. But don't expect Ruger to fix it under warrantee. You'll likely have to pay.

 

[Ghost Tracker]

If you're looking to have the "tightening" done by somebody (else), do yourself a favor & drop into Gemini Customs website (Frankfort, Ky.). These folks specialize in Ruger DA revolvers. Their services range from repair, to fluff & buff, to freakin' Works of Art.

*I am not, nor have I ever been, associated with Gemini Customs. I am simply a fan of their work. Go see for yourself!

 

[ronto]

I assume you are taking your measurements in full lock-up condition (trigger held back all the way).
If so, a .008 gap is acceptable but on the high side as has been said. All my Ruger revolvers are .006 or less.

The end play of .004 is excessive IMO and you may want to contact the Ruger service department or have a smith check it out.

 

[Old Fuff]

The end play of .004 is excessive IMO and you may want to contact the Ruger service department or have a smith check it out.

In the past they have suposedly said up to .007" is O.K.

No, they didn't ask the Old Fuff about that...

 

[Ghost Tracker]

They didn't ask Old Fuff?!? The NERVE of those people! What gall!

 

[ronto]

.007 end play may be OK with them....but it ain't OK with me...I wouldn't be surprised with that much slop with some other brands...but not with Ruger.
If that's their position, I'd just take it to a qualified smith and have him tighten it up a bit.

 

[Old Fuff]

They didn't ask Old Fuff?!? The NERVE of those people! What gall!

I just don't get no respect... :banghead:

 

[Bentley8]

I am checking these things with it in full lockup, trigger all the way back.

I called Ruger service department today and kept getting put on hold after I asked my question. Eventually the line went dead. I think they hung up on me. I would have called back but it was the end of my lunch hour. I'll try and call back again tomorrow.

Thanks for the replies so far, guys. I love this place.

By the way, how would someone go about fixing endshake? I checked on Midway and they sell these small bushings that are 0.002" and set the cylinder back. Would that be it, just installing a bushing, or is there some kind of milling and fitting work that is done? What if I wanted to set my cylinder *forward* to decrease cylinder gap? Is that what a gunsmith would do?

 

[Old Fuff]

The Old Fuff is pressed for time, but...

The Ruger is at full lock-up with the hammer down, as is a Smith & Wesson. But I have no time to explain.

Installing bearings (aka "bushings"), will set the cylinder backwards, and yes - some fitting may be necessary.

Got'ta rush....

 

[Bentley8]

Hi guys,

I took the GP100 apart tonight, following Iowegan's directions from the rugerforum.com, and discovered something real odd.

From looking at the various schematics there should be two cylinder retaining balls in the crane. In my gun, there's only one. I'm positive that it didn't roll out when I took it apart as I was working inside a small tray and the little ball bearing just wasn't in there.

Could only having one of those small ball bearings in there have caused an increase in endshake?

It looks like the only place I can buy them is from Ruger. I'll call them on Tuesday and see if they can send me some. About how long does it usually take for them to ship? Days or weeks?

 

[Jeff F]

I needed a little plunger and spring for the safety on a 10-22 and they sent those parts real fast and no charge!

 

[Bentley8]

I called today to get a cylinder retaining ball and they wouldn't sell one to me. They say it has to be installed by them. I was dreading how much this would cost me. I'm not the original owner, it was made in 1991, and it couldn't be covered by any warranty.

They said they'd do the repair for free. Just ship it to them with a small note and they'll fix it and ship it back to me.

I guess their warranty coverage is a bit more lenient than I thought.

Still, I'd rather install it myself, it would take much less time. But with my luck I'd probably damage the crane somehow, which is probably what they are trying to prevent.