Features of a "Good" holster

[David E]

I was asked in another thread what makes a "Good" holster. It seemed like it would be a good post to put in this sub-forum.

As we've seen in another thread, not even a well known and established maker is immune from making a holster with a serious flaw. That said, a ramped front sight would minimize this flaw, altho it would result in a shiny front sight and a beat up holster over time. The Zip Slide also requires a ramped sight. A post sight will likely catch on that one, too.

I use a Heinie designed holster in my classes to demo that very thing. I get someone from the class to put it on and then make a draw. On their 2nd or 3rd attempt, they finally get the gun out......usually.

1) A good holster should securely retain the gun. (gravity isn't enough!)

2) The gun should not flop around or rattle in the holster.

3) The holster allows a full firing grip at initial contact. The base of the trigger guard should be exposed at least a fingers width, not covered with holster. (if it's not exposed, it forces the hand to take a high grip.)

4) Besides an exposed police duty holster, it should not fight the user and should not require contortions or tricks to draw the gun.

5) Related to #4, the holster should align the gun with the hand for the draw. If the muzzle is pointing significantly away from the feet, the dreaded "Leaning Tower of Pisa" draw is required to get a proper grip on the gun. Fobus is notorious for requiring this draw.

6) The holster should allow a smooth draw, preferably from start to finish.

7) There should be a sight channel and it should go all the way up. (Most Galcos do not)

8) Holster should allow one hand reholstering without looking or "pecking." (like that Zip Slide video shows at the 1:33 mark)

9) Holster should remain in a fixed position on the belt, not sliding or tipping.

10) Holster should be durable.

11) Holster should not cause blisters or bleeding during a gun class.

12) The gun should be fully covered. The "belt slide" style holsters will give up the gun if the wearer sits down and hits the muzzle on the arm of the chair, etc.

13) If necessary, the holster should protect the mag release button from being inadvertantly activated. This is important for a left handed shooter where the mag release is facing away from the body, or for some models that have an ambidextrous mag release. It's critical for a pocket holster.

14) A nice, but not required feature of a holster is when it engages the safety of a 1911, or at least protects it from coming off while in the holster. The only ones I'm aware of that activate the safety are the handmade holsters of a THR'er here (can't recall his name) and KyTac's BraveHeart IWB. www.kytac.NET

15) Shirt shield, to prevent the gun wearing a hole in the shirt and to keep the shirt out of the rig during reholstering. That said, it shouldn't be so big as to prevent a proper grip.


These are most of the features a "good" OWB or IWB holster possesses. Remarkably, damn few holsters embody all of them.

 

[Blakenzy]

Good list.

I would like to add that a tab that protects the exposed top of the gun from the body, and the body from the gun, is a very useful feature particularly for concealment. Holes worn into undershirts and a sweat rusted gun are not nice.

 

[David E]

Added it as #15. Thanks, that IS a good feature.

 

[CoRoMo]

8) Holster should allow one hand reholstering without looking or "pecking."

I've found leather IWB holsters to sorta collapse when I draw the gun. It takes a finger to find the way between the two sheets of leather so that the barrel will enter. Until you get the hang of it, looking and pecking is inevitable.

 

[David E]

A good holster does NOT require a finger to spread the leather.

One hand reholstering is a key consideration in selecting a holster.

 

[CoRoMo]

I didn't mean it completely collapses, just sorta does. The finger wasn't used to spread the leather, just to differentiate between leather and pants. I can reholster with one hand, but without getting the barrel into the right spot, I've had it find its way in between my pants and the holster. It took some practice.

 

[9mmepiphany]

A good holster does NOT require a finger to spread the leather.

One hand reholstering is a key consideration in selecting a holster.

i learned this when i bought my first IWB holster, a Milt Sparks Summer Special...it has a band of spring steel which keeps it's mouth open when the gun is drawn. it even stays open if you go prone atop it.

i've seen some IWB copies that use leather reinforcement around the mouth...better than nothing

 

[9mmepiphany]

a pretty comprehensive list indeed

i'll add what some folks think of as a nice feature (because it looks more finished), but that i think is very important in a working holster:

1. should have an open bottom. this allows debris and liquid to drain/fall out the bottom.
2. should not be lined with suede. it adds drag on the presentation and retains moisture and sand/dirt which scratches the finish of the gun
3. should have a reinforced mouth to stay open...or be built of material that will not collapse when weight is applied

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

Good calls, David E. But I am a little puzzled by this one:

11) Holster should not cause blisters or bleeding during a gun class.

How would this happen?

 

[Geronimo45]

Why is one-handed reholstering important?

 

[9mmepiphany]

Why is one-handed reholstering important?

it allows you to do other things without looking down (like running or grabbing) also you can continue to be aware of your surroundings while reholstering.

it is also a indicator of a well thought out design...like having the seams match on clothes or the grain match on wood grips

 

[David E]

11) Holster should not cause blisters or bleeding during a gun class.

How would this happen?

A poorly designed or poorly executed holster can cause this.

I've seen it in kydex holsters where the material extends past the triggerguard and/or isn't finished smoothly. I've seen some edges literally shaving sharp!

Even when the edges are smooth, the first 10-12 draws may not reveal any shortcomings, but 100 draws will.

A leather holster with a tough thumb snap or the same "too much material" can cause problems, but it might take 200 draws for leather.

Sometimes, as you gear up for the second or third day of a class, you'll notice your middle finger is sore and you don't know why. But at the first draw of the day, the lightbulb goes on.

 

[David E]

Why is one-handed reholstering important?

Your other hand may be engaged, like controlling the badguy, holding a wife or child, or showing the first cop on scene your hands. (even if it's one at a time)

As was said, it also allows you to fully maintain a visual awareness of your surroundings.

You should be able to reholster one handed, without looking, quickly. The cops may arrive to the "Man with a gun" call faster than you thought. Ideally, you don't want to be the first one they see holding a gun.

I've had holsters that literally required you to remove the holster, place the gun in it, then put it all back on the belt. That's just stupid.