Feeding .38 to a .357
- Thread starter Waveski
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788Ham
Member
The bronze brush I use in my .38/357 revolvers is a "40" cal. brush, you need one bigger than the normal .38 cal brush to "fill up" the cylinder holes. Chuck in the cordless drill, Hoppes all around, and commence to brushing.
Cleaning all the AMU's revolvers notwithstanding, there's really no need for heroics such as a cordless drill to clean those chambers. Just regularly clean them with a good solvent or penetrating oil (I use Kroil), a few minutes for the solvent to work, then a few passes with a rod & brush.
Despite the 15k .38spl rounds I put through my 686 last year, "the ring" has been a non-issue: .357mag rounds just dropped right in after (and before) it's regular cleaning.
Despite the 15k .38spl rounds I put through my 686 last year, "the ring" has been a non-issue: .357mag rounds just dropped right in after (and before) it's regular cleaning.
Jim Watson
Member
I went for some years of PPC shooting with .38 wadcutters and semiwadcutters.
Then I wanted to try IPSC with a revolver, so I just gave the old Python a good but conventional cleaning and loaded it up with .357s (Low end magnums to make Major.) and went off quite contented.
The best thing I ever found for a quick cylinder clean between match stages was a Tornado brush. I had a .410 brush with a shotgun to pistol adapter turned down to enter the chamber on the little rod that used to come with S&Ws. I think there is a .40 Tornado that would work without the adapter.
Shotgun barrels and revolver cylinders are the only use I ever found for the coiled coil Tornado brush, they don't do much in rifling grooves.
Then I wanted to try IPSC with a revolver, so I just gave the old Python a good but conventional cleaning and loaded it up with .357s (Low end magnums to make Major.) and went off quite contented.
The best thing I ever found for a quick cylinder clean between match stages was a Tornado brush. I had a .410 brush with a shotgun to pistol adapter turned down to enter the chamber on the little rod that used to come with S&Ws. I think there is a .40 Tornado that would work without the adapter.
Shotgun barrels and revolver cylinders are the only use I ever found for the coiled coil Tornado brush, they don't do much in rifling grooves.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
Like said above in Post #28, there really is no need for all that just to clean the cylinder of your revolver.
Every time a thread like this comes up a lot of people jump right to the carbon ring stuff meanwhile I have NEVER had a problem with a carbon ring in any of my .357 Magnum revolvers. If you use your normal bronze brush and pass it through each charge hole after every range trip you will have no carbon ring to worry about. It's really much to do about nothing and only effects those who are in the "I never clean my guns" camp.
I can't believe there are so many shooters who really have a problem with this, or are they just repeating what they hear on the Internet???
Every time a thread like this comes up a lot of people jump right to the carbon ring stuff meanwhile I have NEVER had a problem with a carbon ring in any of my .357 Magnum revolvers. If you use your normal bronze brush and pass it through each charge hole after every range trip you will have no carbon ring to worry about. It's really much to do about nothing and only effects those who are in the "I never clean my guns" camp.
I can't believe there are so many shooters who really have a problem with this, or are they just repeating what they hear on the Internet???
USSR
Member
Hey, I've seen it on the internet so it must be a serious problem.
Don
627PCFan
Member
I keep a flared empty 357 case I have covered in red sharpie in my range box. If you flare it right, it makes a handy 38 special crud ring scraper in a pinch.
ArchAngelCD
Member.
I do too but I have never needed it for my guns but it does come in handy for those guys at the range who don't clean their guns.
rswartsell
Member
One of the unlikely possibilities not covered by the excellent advice you have received so far has to do with excessive leading resulting by either a too soft bullet compound (almost unheard of now unless you are casting your own out of wheel weights). Or excessive velocity, or some combination of the two.
To cut to the chase if your "fouling" problems are not simply carbon rings but accumulated lead, you should be introduced to the "Lewis Lead Remover System". To describe it in a nutshell, take the brass screen from your "POT PIPE" and use it to debride accumulated lead with the included jig.
Google the Lewis Lead Remover System and follow the instructions should your moving from .38 to .357 ever (or simply .357 use) lead your revolver. Every serious long term .357 user should be familiar.
Regards and happy shooting
To cut to the chase if your "fouling" problems are not simply carbon rings but accumulated lead, you should be introduced to the "Lewis Lead Remover System". To describe it in a nutshell, take the brass screen from your "POT PIPE" and use it to debride accumulated lead with the included jig.
Google the Lewis Lead Remover System and follow the instructions should your moving from .38 to .357 ever (or simply .357 use) lead your revolver. Every serious long term .357 user should be familiar.
Regards and happy shooting
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