Field Stripping PT-111

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I recently bought a used Taurus PT-111 (older model, circa 1998), but it did not come with anything. From what I can tell from the online manuals, you need some kind of key to field strip the gun. I do not have this key, is there any other way to field strip the gun without the key?
 
I'm pretty sure,

If we're talking about a Taurus PT-111, the tricky part is getting the slide off the frame after flipping the latch and all.

It goes something like this (copy and pasted from another site):

Make sure gun is unloaded.
Check chamber again.

1) remove the magazine by pressing the magazine release button;

2) check that the chamber is empty;

3) pull the slide all the way back and lock it open with the slide lock / release lever;

4) rotate the takedown lever (located at the left side of the frame) clockwise until it stops;

5) carefully pull the take-down lever with its pin out of the frame

6) carefully release the slide stop lever, then push the slide all the way forward and out of the frame; :scrutiny: **This is harder than it looks, as I remember. I think it goes easier if you pull the trigger while you are pulling the slide off. If I remember correctly, it is a real PITA and I thought I was going to break something on the PT-111 I specifically took apart.** :)

7) remove the return spring by pushing its head slightly forward and then pulling it out carefully of the detent in the barrel;

8) lift up the barrel from the slide.
Reassemble in reverse order.

Good luck, and let me know if you still have problems. I will take apart my friend's tomrrow to review and see if I left out anything.
 
The above poster has it right. The only thing I would add is that the pin may be a little hard to get out once you have turned the latch 90 degrees. It may take a little gentle prying if the gun is fairly new, emphasis on gentle. Mine requires that the trigger be pulled once the pin is removed and the slide stop is released and then the slide comes off easily. Reassembly is just the reverse, mount the slide and lock it back, insert pin with lever pointing down, then turn lever up and press on it to make sure it is in place.
 
Hello

The above two posters are right on. Remember to pull the trigger when trying to get the slide off.
It took me about 15min. to get mine field stripped with the directions, and 3X that to get it back together. They are difficult.
But, they are nice pistols.:D
 
Yeah, field stripping this gun is not quite as easy as the XD was! The taurus slide has a tendency to get stuck, and it's somewhat of a concern. I bought it used, and I mildly cleaned it. However, it still looks pretty dirty, and I wonder if that's whats making the slide stick. Any recommendations on how to clean it further?
 
If I had it to do over I would field strip my PT111 by dunking it in the round file cabinet. Yes, the trigger pull on my PT111 is that bad. I understand the newer PT11s have better trigger pulls. Regards, Richard:D
 
If I had it to do over I would field strip my PT111 by dunking it in the round file cabinet. Yes, the trigger pull on my PT111 is that bad. I understand the newer PT11s have better trigger pulls. Regards, Richard

And thank you for adding nothing of worth to this thread.

As for the OP, pulling the trigger is pretty much necessary to get the slide off on my MilPro.

There is a trick to getting the pin back in though. If you look at the pin hole, you will see a bit of spring protruding into the hole. If you look at the pin, on the end of it, half of it is missing forming a little extension. If you place this extension under the spring, then rotate the pin, it will lift the spring up out of the way and allow for a much easier time getting the pin back in.
 
Trigger pull

When you get it apart, there doesn't seem like there is all that much to the trigger, anyone know if a very light "fluff and buff" will lighten the trigger a bit... mine is not terrific, but its not horrible either...
 
When you get it apart, there doesn't seem like there is all that much to the trigger, anyone know if a very light "fluff and buff" will lighten the trigger a bit... mine is not terrific, but its not horrible either...

Speaking for my PT145 MilPro DAO here:

There is not much to the trigger system at all. You have your trigger return spring that is in the trigger group and the transfer bar that also acts as the sear. The main resistance by far that one has to overcome by pulling the trigger is using the transfer bar/sear to force the striker back to the point where the sear disengages. The only way to lighten it that I see would be to replace the striker spring with something lighter.

This runs the risk of light primer strikes and you would have to do a lot of testing with a lot of different ammo to be sure that the gun would be reliable with a lighter striker spring.

My trigger is super smooth, but if you feel the need to polish something, it would be the sear area of the transfer bar and the area of the striker where it meets the sear. This would not make the trigger any lighter though.
 
MrTuffPaws,

I am sorry if I offended you but I felt the question had been answered. If I am going to add anything to this string is it is also a bear to get a PT111 back together after the field strip. Correct me, if I am wrong.

I paid $300 for my PT111 and I loved it until I took it to the range. The trigger on my PT111 is so bad it is hard to group at 7 yards. Teddy Jacobson has a very low opinion of the factory trigger but as a favor to me he would try to improve it. The cost would have been $200 for the action work. Lastly, people may like or dislike Teddy but few say anyone knows more about triggers and smoothing them out.

Regards,

Richard:D
 
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